True Ford Enthusiast
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About Micro

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    Too much time on the boards

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    Focus 1.6
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  1. Don't be put off by low prices however. I bought my Falken 914s after a lot of research (205/55/R16 91V) for £44 each, and then all 4 fitted for £20 at my local tyre shop. They perform amazing, if not a little high tyre wear. They may have only done 30k, fronts are now down to 2.2-2.5mm and the rears at 3mm (swapped fronts to rear sometime last year). I will swap for my winters (to actually use them) as soon as it starts to get cold, and before the fronts become illegal/dangerous especially in the wet, and then in the new year I will buy at least a new pair of tyres if not all 4 (Falken 914s again if they're a good price).
  2. Dashcams, again!

    Mine was running during its two previous service/mots. It's a discreet unit where the actual recording box is away from the cameras, and makes no sound. I did have a quick glance at what went on (curiosity more than anything) - all I saw was people dedicated to their job, and attention to detail. There were a number of other cars in the car park with dash cams fitted (and I think the garage fits them also). If the garage asked for them to be turned off/disabled, I would happily do so - however in the same vein I would not expect to find that they had been tampered with or forcibly disabled without my input.
  3. Focus MK2 Drivebelt?

    A little on topic, useful with the engine picture. Where would you support the engine from underneath whilst replacing the right engine mount? The haynes manual just refers to using a jack with a block of wood but does not specify where is safe to do this. I also notice there is a position for an engine crane? on the top left which I can probably borrow for 10 minutes whilst at work if it would be more suitable to support the engine (and the advantage of not having to remove the engine undershield!).
  4. Power Remains On After Ignition Turned Off?

    The process of re-doing my electrics means I'm going to be investigating the use of a voltage-sensitive relay board (eBay) and powering my dashcam constantly. It's kind of limited to my model as it has two usb sockets which will accept power - one will only charge the battery/keep the unit powered, and the other actually causes it to switch on with the ignition. The camera operates in motion detect mode when the ignition is off til it's internal battery is drained - unless externally powered. Unfortunately the voltage sensitive relay board appears to be the wrong way around - it turns the relay ON (disconnecting the load) when the voltage drops. I want it to work the opposite way - turn relay ON when voltage above level. A simple wire bodge should sort that though (basically flip the inputs to the comparator). What I hope to do is install a small 6 way fuse box under the pjb, and then wire all my accessories to this, along with a grounding bolt - at the present my pjb cannot be removed due to wiring trailing everywhere and it's tweaking my OCD a little It will also mean that I can remove individual fuses for accessories at will to help with diagnosis/isolating things. It will also remove the relay from the bottom end of my cigarette socket which was only meant to be a stopgap but has been in place for over 3 years
  5. Speedo

    I've never heard of that method - I was taught that you drive at a speed that you can stop in the distance you can see to be clear, and on your side of the road. I was always under the impression that you want to provide some accelerator input going round a bend aswell to offset the tendancy for your car to slow - and to keep all the tyre grip and forces mumbojumbo in check
  6. Things I Don't Like

    As I understand what the chap was saying (an airconditioning engineer) - when the timing belt is done, some may need to use a puller on the pulley at the bottom of the engine - but to access this the engine may need to be dropped a little to gain access, which then puts tension onto the AC pipe at the rearmost of the engine, and damages the internal steel braid. A few cases of these pipes going bang once regassed, sometimes a little while after, and at nearly £300 a bit costly! This guy:
  7. Fiesta wouldn't start... battery?

    Do you know what type they replaced it with? I'm almost certain that it's a 075 (60Ah) battery in the car, but all the sites (Halfords, Batteryshop, etc) are saying it's a 100 (72-75Ah). Edit: No, it's the wrong size for 075 - 175mm tall, 175mm wide, and 278mm long, but no 60Ah batteries come in that size... Ford you confuse again.
  8. Things I Don't Like

    I have decided to leave my timing belt / water pump for someone else - at least if it goes wrong I have someone to complain to . Not only that, but after reading about the dreaded AC pipe bursting after timing belts being done, much rather someone else do it. After a year and a half or more of front end noise, which we've not managed to narrow down too much (although I think the top strut bearings are going, the garage agrees but said it is not worth doing at the moment), and people suggesting engine mount wear - I opened the bonnet to jump my mums Fiesta to find a puddle of oil on the left mount Can anyone confirm that the timing belt needs doing at 8 years / 100000 miles? I've only done 80k so far, but it is coming up to it's 8 year service next year. If so, it's failed at the perfect time to get it replaced with no added labour (since it needs to be removed to do the timing belt!)
  9. Hi all, Mums fiesta - 2011 Fiesta Titanium 1.6tdci. Wouldn't start this morning - arrived to notice folding mirrors very slow, and clicking on turning the key, battery voltage 12.2 but dropped to 5v on attempting to start. Jumped with my Focus, and left to run for 15-20 minutes whilst I investigated the leaky engine mount on my own car. Jumped on first turn of the key with my car attached. Whilst charging by itself, the highest voltage I saw was 13.3V - whilst being charged by my Focus it was at 13.9V. Started 3-4 times after letting it run, then went slow and clicky again. Currently attached to the battery charger to give it a good charge. There is what appears to be a little eye on top of the battery which is black. The battery is most probably the original for the car. I'm guessing a battery problem foremost, but am concerned about the alternator - it does definitely kick in about 5 seconds after starting raising the voltage up to 13.3V - I can't get to the alternator plug to unplug it and see if it will change it's charging voltage - but obviously if the battery is toast then the battery charging side of it is going to be wonky aswell anyway. Anyone else have any ideas?
  10. Which Radio Do I Need To Buy?

    My Xtrons unit has its quirks, but overall quite a capable head unit, especially with third party firmware.
  11. Which Way Would You Go?

    Chances of the police stopping you for using common sense, or cause a traffic jam? We had to do this at a mini roundabout the other day whilst a van was being recovered as no room to get past the bollard and van / recovery vehicle.
  12. Learner Drivers On Motorways

    You mean the drivers that are doing 40mph on a clear straight stretch of road in the sunshine, then entering the 30mph then 20mph limit they continue at 40mph as if the limit hasn't changed? I'm all for learners on motorways, it would mean hopefully that people coming onto the roads would have a bit more confidence in them - obviously if no motorway in a reasonable distance then they would have to do with just theory. My sister (now a full licence holder) won't drive on the motorway, even though i've offered to sit next to her, and tutored her on them plenty of times. Also it might stop these people (3 in the past week) that seem to think joining the motorway at 30-40mph, and immediately moving to lane 2, even with nothing in lane 1, is acceptable.
  13. Unknown Beeping Noise

    When you're pressing the brake pedal, as you've deemed that makes it "beep", have someone do that whilst you listen everywhere, to behind the dash, etc. If you can narrow it down, get behind the dash in that area and see what you can find. Has the vehicle ever been used for emergency services, highways work, etc? Are you certain it is an electronics beep? Does the car have anything in it that doesn't work correctly? I.e. parking sensors? Might be worth having a look at the passenger fuse box too, see if any of the big loom connectors and wires coming off them have any scotchloks or splices. You can also check round the brake pedal, and if you're into DIY, around the ignition barrel and connectors. If the brake pedal is indeed making the beeping noise, then maybe there is something to do with the ignition (thinking a turbo timer, or "runlock" feature). Strange its only just started though unless the car is a recent purchase and from a trader? If so, i'd take it back to where you bought it from and ask them to fix it.
  14. Power Remains On After Ignition Turned Off?

    One way is using a relay and another ignition switched source, or by simply tapping an ignition live fuse at the fuse box. The advantage of a relay is moreso when you're tapping an ignition feed elsewhere (like in the boot) as you are only drawing 50-100mA from the switching supply, rather than a potential 10A. In the boot there is a permanent feed on the drivers side, and a switching wire (which i used) on the left, which supplies the rear wiper motor. This wire is fused at 7.5A so I used wire capable of carrying 7.5A to connect this to the relay - if there is a fault in your wiring, you want the fuse to blow. I (inadvertently) tested this by being ham fisted and connecting the first relay the wrong way round initially - meaning a large current flowed through the flyback diode which blew it and popped the fuse with an audible pop even from the boot)..... lesson learnt, make sure you read the terminal numbers correctly! Simply connect your permanent feed to one of the switching contacts (30 (3) or 87 (5)), and connect a jumper from the other switching contact to your power socket. Connect a switching feed to 86 (1) and a ground to 85 (2) - with a little jumper if required - and then the relay will switch on with the ignition - connecting permanent power to your power socket. Make sure either your cat, or a neighbours cat, is helping too!
  15. Blowing bulbs can send a spike through the rest of the circuitry, it may just have been that, hence why the fuse blew also. As for the date - you need to change it to the highest possible (2014), set it, go out of the menu and back into it, you will be able to set it higher.