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Micro

True Ford Enthusiast
  • Content count

    768
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Micro

  • Rank
    Too much time on the boards

Contact Methods

  • ICQ
    0
  • First Name
    Ted

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Focus 1.6
  • Ford Year
    2009
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Worcestershire
  • Annual Mileage
    15,001 to 20,000

Recent Profile Visitors

4,859 profile views
  1. Black cab type and locking and unlocking all the ***** time. Similar trip in a Passat though, the doors locked (even though you could unlock), when moving, and unlocked when stopped...
  2. If it's low current, you can look into using the correctly sized scotchlocks. Using a soldering iron anywhere near those plastic connectors will probably fill the air with the fine smell of melting plastic. Otherwise if you're looking to carry a larger current (probably not here, if you're looking to wire LED's), then stripping the insulation, and soldering your wires there to make a T, and appropriately connecting them may be another option, or making your own harness with the appropriate crimp connectors. Make sure any new circuits you make use the same or larger diameter of wire, so that if there IS ever a fault with your additions, the fuse will blow before the wires melt.
  3. "Fault Clears" - is this just because the car will not communicate with the module, and when you get it recoded it will return? Have you checked the wheel sensors, and all wiring to those sensors and the ABS module?
  4. Putting it in park? Are you using the footbrake or handbrake? Auto boxes (dependent on how they're set up) use fluid transfer or a physical automatic clutch setup - i'm not sure what setup the Fiesta 1.4 boxes have. They will basically try and put torque through regardless of pressing on the brake (and on a fluid model, would not cause any damage to the gearbox, not sure about the auto clutch models). My relatives Meriva has a gearbox with (i believe, automatic clutches), and you need to put it into Park to stop it feeling like it's "pulling".
  5. I think any wipers would have an issue like that. I tend to spray mine with window cleaner (basically diluted screenwash) and the screen to make sure that they're free before trying to drive / use them.
  6. What engine do you have, and what gearbox? Automatics are notoriously thirsty especially depending on the gearbox type.
  7. Yes Taxis are locked when moving. You can set whatever speed you require in the Elmconfig program - I can't recall what mine is set to but it's fairly low and I exceed that speed leaving my home car park or work car park before I get to the gate. Everyone will have their personal preferences. I would not have a car now that doesn't lock itself... says a lot about the area in which I work!
  8. You say you've replaced the fusebox? The passenger fuse box? There may be a brake fluid level sensor fitted to the brake fluid bottle, maybe it has become disconnected or damaged. Same for the washer bottle. Something is bugging me about the fuse box though - if it is the passenger fuse box, I believe it has some intelligence - if you have replaced from another vehicle that has these sensors then it may need reprogramming.
  9. Yes the advice (I believe from a well known autoparts manufacturer) stated that the yellow clips around the ball joint boot mean 18mm and blue are 21mm but you are advised to measure it before attempting to fit any new part first.
  10. You can't really get a too powerful battery as such - the car will only use what power it needs. The only problem with a bigger battery is it will take longer to charge fully - unless you uprate the alternator also - but only if you increase by a ridiculous amount.
  11. Aye but once it's locked it's locked, at least on my Focus. So after the first time over 12mph it's locked.
  12. Hi Birchyboy, What were your voltage readings in the end with engine off, engine started, etc?
  13. Have Falken 914s all round, they're not the quietest tyre, but they're not that loud. They're also fab grip wise. Are you sure you've not got any loose/worn suspension components that are compounding the sound?
  14. I'm assuming you changed the coil pack with a NEW one from a reputable brand? Not one from a scrappy? Have you swapped the fuel injectors between any of the other cylinders? or just between one and two? Assuming plugs are clean, and spark gap correct? Compression test would be useful just to rule out a low compression in Cyl 1, do the codes point to an individual cylinder at any point, or just "Multiple/Random"? What was the code the initial reader gave (just in case it's actually a code for something else)?