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Micro

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    433
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Micro

  • Rank
    Feet Under The Table

Contact Methods

  • ICQ
    0
  • First Name
    T

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Focus Zetec 1.6
  • Ford Year
    2010
  • UK/Ireland Location
    West Midlands
  • Annual Mileage
    15,001 to 20,000

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. The problem i think is finding cameras small enough which still produce HD... I did consider using usb webcams for the purpose (coupled with an RPI, or PC) but gave up on the idea due to the size of them.
  2. If the bulb was hot when it became submerged and there was a tiny hole, then water would have been sucked into it when it cooled.
  3. Bought a new Bosch S4 004 60Ah from ECP for £49 with discount code. Up til about 10am it was showing as £42 with discount code but the cheeky swines must have changed the price! Anyway, car is sorted now hopefully, and not too much of a dent in the wallet.
  4. Aah yeah, fuse descriptions are F107 - Instrument cluster battery supply, on-board diagnostics (10A fuse) F108 - Accessory to cluster (audio and navigation unit) (7.5A fuse) F112 - Audio modules battery supply Why didn't they just standardise the fuse boards? :P There are also fuses in the engine bay that supply different sections of the passenger fuse box, so you need to check all the fuses there too.
  5. Probably just makes it warm up quicker. I notice a massive difference between my cars performance in winter vs summer, and indeed in cooler temperatures (not when it's reaching 25 degrees!) the difference between when it's just started and when it's warmed up.
  6. My Focus doesn't have the bulb holders, haven't looked further to see if the wiring is there though.
  7. This post only applies if the wiring diagram is also correct for MK2 Focuses (like it says it is, although dated 2010). The ignition live is likely not coming from the control unit. If the wiring diagram is correct check that F107, F108 and F112 are all getting power, and that the fuses are intact. You may need to measure them with a meter to double check. Again, if the wiring diagram is correct, you should be getting battery voltage (permanent) on pin 32, ignition on pin 4, accessory on pin 15, and should have continuity to ground on pin 6. These wires come directly from the passenger fusebox, not the control module.
  8. The charger is at least 20 years old. As such things as a booster pack, I haven't needed one so haven't bought one! I have thought about it though as my car is getting on a bit. The lithium boost packs are quite affordable and will start the car a few times on one charge (and can be used for other things too). Battery will be going back in the car in the morning, and off to the auto electrician for a load test just to be sure (although I think i've already proved it's dying!).
  9. Thought that was normal once the battery had been disconnected also, takes a little while for it to learn the figures and adapt to your driving.
  10. Got an old battery charger, not sure if it's microcontrolled or not. Currently 14.75V (multimeter) climbing slowly with its charge indicator indicating 100%. Now at 14.8V and hovering, so appears as if it's doing the job. As for the parasitic draw, it may drop even lower but got to that point and was happy with the result... plus the heavens opened Edit: Charger keeps rising 0.1V then holding, appears to drop off then charges back up again. Currently at 15V... The Bosch S4 appears to be a Silver-calcium composition, and at £53 from Eurocarparts not too bank breaking either! Half tempted to pay the £5 extra and get the 60Ah... Battery voltage got to 15V and audible fizzing could be heard... All in all, 1.5 hours at a "normal" charge (the charger states 8.5A...), and the voltage is at the upper limit.
  11. Grand, will ring my Ford garage too just to inquire about their price (expecting £55-70 for a branded battery?) before I head down to have the battery load tested too. It will probably end up in my lean-to with a solar panel just to provide a bit of light in the darkening evenings...
  12. Thought so. Off to the battery shop in the morning, old battery in hand! Replacing with a calcium battery, is it really important to replace with a Ford Silver Calcium battery, or is this correct (http://www.yuasa.co.uk/info/technical/silver-calcium-batteries) and I can replace with a battery whos chemistry includes Calcium?
  13. Decided I was being a donut, so locked the doors before disconnecting the battery and putting my meter in series. After about 5-10 minutes current dropped to 250mA~ and after 45 mins current dropped to 40mA~. So parasitic draw not a concern (relief...). Pulled the battery out of the car to charge in the house tonight, does anyone know if you can/are supposed to check the water in this battery? (Ford Silver Calcium, 43Ah, 390A). It looks like the covers are removable, but prying with a screwdriver just seems to mall the plastic surround... can you tell the last time I had anything to do with a 12v lead acid battery was a long time ago?!. Appears to have a date code on the terminal, 42/09 (42nd week, 2009?)
  14. Hi guys, Recently (past month), i've been having little hiccups with my car - I went camping and didn't use my car for a few days other than to charge my phone for an hour or so once. Came back to it the next morning, and car sounded different when I unlocked it. Tried to start and had constant clicking when holding the key. Had to jump the car (now read that can be a bad idea, but otherwise stuck!) which started it fine. 3 weeks on, same issue except managed to start it on the one turnover by pressing the accelerator pedal also. Has done it a few times since. Voltages (at the battery): Engine off, car sat for an hour: 12.4V Engine on, smart charge plug attached to alternator: 14.0-14.1V Engine on, smart charge plug disconnected: 13.9V Engine on, smart charge plug connected or disconnected: EVERYTHING on (2 heated screens, fans on 4, all lights on), battery visibly discharging down to 8.5-9V at which point the battery light comes on all within 2 minutes. Unable to test parasitic draw with car locked and all systems asleep as my multimeter and test leads do not allow enough current to pass to lock the doors >.< Personally thinking the battery has just reached the end of its life at 6 years of service? Going to have it load tested tomorrow at a local auto electric place - gonna place it on our charger tonight to make sure it's fully charged. Also considered the alternator.
  15. Never noticed anything like that, going to have to look now! I also have the black parking sensor speaker on the nearside (Xvision). Is it possibly something to do with the SRS system (crash sensor?)