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True Ford Enthusiast
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About Micro

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    Too much time on the boards

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  • Ford Model
    Focus 1.6
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
  • Annual Mileage
    15,001 to 20,000

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  1. Do you have an aftermarket radio and/or a reverse camera? Seems a strange set of symptoms!
  2. The immobiliser code pops up on mine infrequently, it may have something to do with the key being partially folded when starting the engine, or a brief interruption of signal. A lot of codes will only set if they are triggered multiple times or with the right conditions, and some may just occur with normal running of the car.
  3. I'd imagine you need the module, and the car programming to recognise the module. If you don't mind not having it integrated with your cars display, you can get some very capable reversing sensor kits from eBay for £10-15.
  4. There may be one or more fuses, I would check all fuses (with key on) have 12v on both sides (if they have 12v on one) and make sure there isn't another fuse responsible for powering the relays.
  5. The Royal bananas this year added £130 onto my premium, and after a magic phone call that dropped to a £60 increase. I am going to ring around as it's up for renewal soon and the comparison sites seem not to be able to deal with a "Notification only, no claim made from own insurance" event... Cheapest I got was £444 (from my current insurer, which my current insurer beat anyway when I rang them), next was £600 and the next was £2k... Driving 8 years, 8 years NCD, 2 notifications (non fault) and 1 windscreen claim. It's gone bonkers.
  6. Something like that was used in the states (would react to the flashing strobe frequency), but I don't think the lights or emergency vehicles here have that (Clive?). They just seem to run their own timed sequence (although during the early hours most of the lights are set to react to vehicles approaching anyway).
  7. The emergency vehicle is meant to hold back with their siren switched off until the light is green if it can not safely progress seems to be the local thing. Different organisations may have slightly different policies - certainly appears here that the police and fire don't turn them off, the ambulances seem to though.
  8. Are you using a temp controlled iron, or one of the mains sticks? Tin the tip, and wipe any massive excess off (you need a little to transfer heat effectively). Gently twist, or intertwine the wires (you can just solder side by side if you prefer, but you need them to be held by something), hold the iron onto the wires and let the heat get into the wire - feed a little solder into the iron side, then feed solder into the actual wire not onto the iron. It should take quite well. Due to the ROHS legislation you probably have lead-free solder, which takes more heat to melt. If you can get hold of some 60/40 leaded solder I would recommend it, it's much easier and more pleasant to work with, just wash your hands afterwards!
  9. You may need to post a new thread in the Forum if this doesn't help, but you will need an appropriate stalk converter box for your make of radio and model of car.
  10. As long as you're ok with a tape measure just make sure that they're even - if there are no marks I'd tape the sensors to the bumper first to gauge where you need to put them (physically test them by walking up to them) before drilling.
  11. Yup! Discussed in length with many people when I did my suspension arms, and decided that even if it went to a garage they'd just reuse the original ones anyway!
  12. I think the pinch bolt is specified for replacement if you follow the Ford OEM servicing guide for anything that requires it's removal anyway.
  13. Imagine this just means it has the ford badges?
  14. Only if dye has previously been put in, UV light will make it flouresce.
  15. My bad, i mean ignition (II). Once in test mode you can start when you've found the voltage screen. Do your gauges work in that first 12 secs?