Micro

True Ford Enthusiast
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About Micro

  • Rank
    Too much time on the boards
  • Birthday

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  • First Name
    Ted

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Focus 1.6
  • Ford Year
    2009
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Worcestershire
  • Annual Mileage
    15,001 to 20,000

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  1. Look at the wiring diagram (I will look at my own diagrams later). I have a unit which supplies 12v to a fuse in the fusebox to allow the engine to stay running without the key. When this is active and I remove the key the IC freezes and the window heaters go off and the radio goes off (almost as if there should be two separate ignition lines from the ignition switch).
  2. You will find lots of 12V sources in the car, not all of them can supply power. Some are signal wires, etc. I highly recommend reading the wiring diagram if available for your car to ensure you don't try pulling too much power from any of these if you do mods in the future - you do not want to blow up a power package or your gem!
  3. Lenny, that second link you found with the steering wheel controls is the one I fitted to power my old pioneer radio - plug and play. I'm sure I only paid £16 though.
  4. And unfortunately my low rumble on uneven ground / steering whilst stopped or moving has returned but seems more pronounced now. Whilst the front of the car was off the ground there was no noises on turning the steering wheel and it all moved lovely and smooth. Car drives straight, doesn't pull and doesn't pull on braking. Some days it's more pronounced, some days you can hardly hear it or it's not there at all. Really bizarre!
  5. Got the arm on, a slight bit of persuasion with a mallet and it aligned. Had the alignment done, and showed that both sides were toe out. Got them to tighten the front arm bolts on the ramp as couldn't get enough leverage on the stands. The steering wheel is unfortunately a tiny wee bit out of line now driving straight, not sure I can be bothered to go back though it's so minimal!
  6. 21mm felt very loose - maybe a dodgy spanner - did wonder for about 30 mins why it was a different standard. Will try jacking the ball joint up in the morning, cheers matey!
  7. So I thought... Right ball joint nut was an absolute BANANA to get off. It took two hours of hammering and a 13/16ths spanner (what the actual hell Ford?) - a 21mm spanner was slightly too big. The other bolts in the arm were metric and the front long one came away with no trouble after my electric impact got used. The left hand arm pretty much just dropped out, the bolts had grease where they went through the bushes so I think someone had had it all apart at some point. I am now having trouble getting the rear bush on the left to align properly with the holes. The rear hole seems to line up but the bolt will not thread into the other side (I test fitted the bolts in the new arm and they fit ok). As a stop gap I've managed to align everything else (ball joint, front bush and the forward rear bush bolt). My plan in the morning is to either try turning the steering all the way to the left/right and jacking up the ball joint to put it under some load. Anyone else got any tips? Turns out the arms were a good idea, the ball joints both sides were quite floppy (no in/out though), the anti roll bar drop links were too, and the rear bushes were completely split and the rubber perishing.
  8. You should see 12v on the battery live pin regardless of your ignition status - it must stay live for some radios to keep their programming. The ignition live should come on when you turn the key. If either of those aren't working then you probably have a fuse issue.
  9. I would be careful using acetone near your dashboard, it's likely to be ABS or some component of - Acetone dissolves ABS! I'd try a general detergent - maybe some washing up liquid - with a soft cloth to start with.
  10. The car should provide a permanent 12V (if not, check the fuse), and a switched 12v (some more modern cars just have a canbus link, but I think your Ford is probably old enough that it has the 12v accessory sense line).
  11. Not sure the organisation would approve ;-) Might only be outside for a minute or so, before end up back inside somewhere toasty. Probably should just grow a pair! :P
  12. It's a bit of a pain when at work you can be going from warm vehicle, to cold outside, inside to buildings, outside to cold, and back into a warm vehicle. Means you don't know whether to wear a coat or not!
  13. Does it do it if you just lightly press the pedal (enough to bring your brake lights on only)?
  14. Does the harness you've purchased have the ability to swap the red and yellow wires? Some head units use a different pin out. If you provide the exact model and cable harness you've bought we'll be able to tell youl.
  15. Corrosion/paint damage due to "sometimes sharp edges" of the tailgate handle trim and possibility of grit/dirt getting between it and the paintwork. There has been a TSB since 2011 for it. Speaking to a couple different Ford approved repairers/garages sounded like a common issue but they will not budge on their decision not to help whatsoever due to the warranty having expired (but the Corrosion warranty is separate to the Perforation warranty?). The fix appears to depend on the amount of damage, they have transparent vinyl which goes between the two pieces to stop damage, or there are black/silver vinyl bits that I believe stick out from the trim a bit to cover the damage, or the 3rd option listed is a full panel repair.