Micro

True Ford Enthusiast
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    757
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About Micro

  • Rank
    Too much time on the boards

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  • First Name
    Ted

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Focus 1.6
  • Ford Year
    2009
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Worcestershire
  • Annual Mileage
    15,001 to 20,000

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Aye but once it's locked it's locked, at least on my Focus. So after the first time over 12mph it's locked.
  2. Hi Birchyboy, What were your voltage readings in the end with engine off, engine started, etc?
  3. Have Falken 914s all round, they're not the quietest tyre, but they're not that loud. They're also fab grip wise. Are you sure you've not got any loose/worn suspension components that are compounding the sound?
  4. I'm assuming you changed the coil pack with a NEW one from a reputable brand? Not one from a scrappy? Have you swapped the fuel injectors between any of the other cylinders? or just between one and two? Assuming plugs are clean, and spark gap correct? Compression test would be useful just to rule out a low compression in Cyl 1, do the codes point to an individual cylinder at any point, or just "Multiple/Random"? What was the code the initial reader gave (just in case it's actually a code for something else)?
  5. Clicking from the engine, may be the starter solenoid (the bit that engages the starter motor with the engine). You should be able to feel the "clicking" of relays in the fusebox, although if the passenger fuse box is a smart type some of the relays may be hidden or soldered directly to the board. You do have enough fuel in the car? When you crank the engine does it smell rich at the exhaust? The next step i'd want to take is to watch some live data - fuel, rpm, etc. Make sure all signals are present.
  6. Just to confirm there is no water inside the engine fusebox, or passenger fusebox, or rear fuse box (if you car has one)? No leaking anywhere around any electrics? Have you confirmed the battery is good?
  7. There may be two fuses for your cig lighters if you have one in the rear too. Also make sure you're looking at the correct fuse diagram for your car.
  8. My first accident wasn't caught on dash cam as it wasn't functioning at the time - it's partially what has led me to look for the "ultimate" dash cam - small cameras, fixed (separate DVR/box), potentially writing to either a bank of sd cards or HDD/SSD that can be fitted and forgotten. Tank - try a Volvo? :P
  9. Cleaning off the old, sticky grease and replacing with new is never going to cause any harm. Dirt and dust likes to stick to grease.
  10. Hi Paige, The brake light coming on, if you apply and release your handbrake, does the light flicker or turn off? It may be a faulty handbrake switch, or it could be a fluid level switch if the fluid level is indeed ok.
  11. When you've been turning they key, if there has been resistance have you turned the wheel slightly, or have you ever forced the key anyway? Have you tried another key? To get the key barrel to turn to start the engine but for the steering lock to stay engaged, on a normal model sounds like the mechanism between ignition barrel and steering lock is broken.
  12. The majority of my ignition switched stuff is actually wired to the cigarette lighter (which switches on with a relay). For the other things I've earthed to one of the bolts on the fuse box bracket.
  13. Two plugs on the caravan, are these the 7 pin ones?
  14. Dashcam or did you get the reg? If so, i'd chase through insurance.
  15. Might be residue left by rain-x or similar. Some IPA or strong screenwash might do the trick. Toothpaste is lightly abrasive so may also do the job. 5L of concentrate screenwash (Carparts4less, £2.05 with a discount code) - states do not get neat on paintwork, contains IPA and Methanol. It works so well that it removes the rain-x from my windscreen if I squirt it on at more than about 50-75% concentration + smells lovely!