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True Ford Enthusiast
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About Micro

  • Rank
    Too much time on the boards
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Profile Information

  • Gender*
  • Ford Model
    Focus 1.6
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
  • Annual Mileage
    15,001 to 20,000

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4,460 profile views
  1. Does it perform a chargeable activity every 6 months? I know the sim in my tablet I used a while back got deactivated because I hadn't called or texted anyone, but may have changed now? Edit: Just looked, internet use counts, win win!
  2. Not so much an excuse, but "waiting for a claims form from our client" took 2 months when I had my prang with the farm animal...
  3. I don't see how not having enough space in front of you makes you liable in any way, shape or form. I routinely use my handbrake at a standstill, a handbrake isn't going to stop my car from moving forward a large amount if someone rear ends me at a high enough speed...
  4. RegistratorViewer doesn't work with all cameras, unfortunately the developer of it died in a motor accident a short time ago. There are a few more floating around - which camera do you have?
  5. Got to work taking my wipers / scuttle panel off with the aim to look at the top of the strut mounts, lovely hot day too. Just got to taking the actual scuttle panel off the strip that runs along the bottom of the windscreen, when I noticed that the windscreen had a small inch long crack coming up from the strip... turns out there is a small chip smack bang below where the drivers side wiper parks, which has now blown and spread half way across the drivers side of the screen :( Cue very angry Ted putting all the plastics back on and ringing the glass people! Put me right off doing anything else to the car that day (except washing it). I now know why I always ensure I have glass cover on the insurance!
  6. As others have said. If someone wants your fuel they will get it another way (i.e. a screwdriver and the bottom of your tank). As for people messing with your fuel or adding stuff to it - does the easy fill allow fluid in that collects in the fuel cap compartment? I thought that just dripped down out of the fuel cap.
  7. I'd be concerned they're going to use fake or extremely slow flash chips especially if they're a cheaper supplier - make sure you get a good sample of the product first and might be worth testing them if you did buy them (h2testw) and only from a retail outlet with escrow!
  8. Hi all! I am still investigating the knocking/rubbing noise ongoing with my Focus. It has been plaguing me now for a little while, stopping and starting again, and slowly but surely i'm ruling out causes. It began with a "rubbing" noise on steering - at a stop or low speed, audible in the cabin when steering. Then slowly a louder knocking type noise developed when going over bumps. It does not do it all the time, occasionally it will be absolutely fine. Did think that when it was warmer outside it stopped doing it but it has since done this when it's been a sunny 15 degrees. So far I have replaced/covered: Lower suspension arms (L + R). Bushes perished and excessive movement when I had them off the car. Anti roll bar links (L + R) - anti roll bar seemed stiff and had no excessive movement. Old anti roll bar links seemed ok - no sideways/up/down movement in the ball/socket,only a little floppy. Spraying silicone lube through the gap in the strut brace (kind of aiming at the top mount), silences the steering noise, but does nothing to fix the knocking noise on driving. This lasts 1 week~ In the past week, I have noticed a metallic rattle on driving / idling - similar to this: however it does it at idle mostly or engine under load, goes away when revved with no load, and slightly lower pitched. I think just a coincidence. There are NO performance issues, the car still drives fine, pulls straight, and brakes straight. I am questioning whether the strut mounts need replacing.
  9. Mine does the grinding noise if you're turning the wheel any significant amount whilst it happens - if you're driving straight it will just clunk.
  10. The work vans have hill-hold as standard. The cynic in me says that's because they fudged the handbrake position, meaning if you have the seat in the highest position, you have to bend almost 90 degrees to the right to put the handbrake on/off! (Peugeot Boxers). Obviously a faff if you're on a hill trying to use the throttle and find the biting point!
  11. Jack the car up, and take the wheel off. I'm sure you will see if they have fitted the wrong one (look for the coloured band). The Ford service guide for replacing the suspension arm says to replace the nylock nut on the ball joint, but does not mention disposal or replacement of the bolts. The Haynes manual (at least for the Diesel Mk 2.5) says replace all fasteners.
  12. I put Unipart arms on my car a month ago - I had some issues with my N/S arm which I thought was alignment issues - I could get one bolt through the rear bush but the second bolt would not catch onto the threads. After much toying and removing/refitting I gently persuaded the bolt a bit further with a rubber mallet which allowed it to catch and do up. It would probably be easier, if you have the patience/time/tools/experience, to remove the entire strut/spring and knuckle assembly as you don't have to fight all the bushes (and risk catching the ball joint boot with the brake shield - the Unipart ones come with a big thick plastic protection cap which is very useful!) The Unipart ones came with a new Nylock nut for the balljoint, but require you to use your existing bolts. I threadlocked mine back into place for extra peace of mind.
  13. I found this information somewhere although I cannot for the life of me find where from now. This is the ball joint - yellow for 18mm and blue for 21mm (indeed, mine is a 21mm collar, and had a blue ring - my replacements from Unipart also had blue rings). Do not take this for granted and measure if available before you fit your arms and find it's the wrong size! Another manufacturers website says that they are segregated by date around 2007 but can't be certain.
  14. And to add to the list... same here. Since changing tyres to Falken ZE914's i don't set it off as much (they stick like brown stuff, and I drive, err, progressively...) Hitting random pot holes/dips in the road, esp in the wet, tend to set it off briefly. Emergency braking on a wet road with mud over it, trying to avoid hitting a suicidal farm animal that has decided to suddenly cross the road, also sets it off...
  15. Madman as we said earlier in the topic, I think the fuel percent reading is in hexadecimal (base 16). Mine at 3/4 full showed a value of 49, which if you convert to decimal, you get 73%. If you convert 51 to decimal you get 82% (tallying with your fuel gauge).