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Jedilard

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    93
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Jedilard

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Fiesta Zetec S
  • Annual Mileage
    0 to 5000
  • Contributor
    3
  1. ! Guide ! How to fit a Tuning Box to a Fiesta Mk7 1.6tdci 95ps Firstly thanks to Lez, Tone and Cliffhanger who all responded to my request for help in fitting a tuning box. In particular to Lez who supplied a couple of pictures that I have used within this guide. Firstly my reason for going for a box rather than a remap is simply the fact that I have not found anyone that can remap the 95psi version. There are loads of tuning boxes available, the one I have fitted was from tdi-tuning.co.uk and from what I can tell they all connect in the same way. Tdi-Tuning Which ever box you go for I'd strongly recommended you also by a blanking cap. Once you have fitted the tuning box its really easy to access the box itself, but to remove the cabling you will need to repeat the fitting process. By using a cap you can take the box out and replace it with the cap, which then returns the car to normal, but the cables remain. This is the one that goes with my box. http://www.tdi-tuning.co.uk/core_products/tuning/tdituning_crtd2_tuning_box_removal_cap_P2449.html Anyway fitting the box is not the 10 minute job that the sellers quote as the common rail is not situated at the front of the engine but behind it. The picture below (from Lez) shows what the engine looks like from behind and the red circle is where the common rail is. The following is a guide of how I fitted mine, which will hopefully prove useful to members looking to fit a box to their fiesta. • Tools needed – Socket set, Set of Alan Keys. Optional – Torch and screwdriver • Time – 1 to 2 hours • Mechanic skill level – Low (I have none!) Step 1 – What needs to be removed – the Battery! There is no way to get at the common rail plug without making some space. The only thing that needs to be removed in the Battery and the case it sits in (green cross). However the ECU is also secured to the battery case (white cross) so we will also need to detach this from the battery case. The red cross I believe is the air filter and some posts I've read people say you have to remove this as well. I managed to avoid this. Step 2 – Remove the Battery Disconnect you battery and remove the 3 bolt circled in red. The battery can then be removed. Step 3 – Detach the ECU from the plastic battery case. There are 3 screws that need to be removed in order to detach the ECU from the battery case. The first is easily accessible – circle in red. Also it's a good idea to move the rubber tube (blue dot) at this point. The second two screws are actually underneath the case itself and are a bit of a pain to get to. Remove the 3 bolts securing the battery case – circled in red. The two yellow dots are approximately where the screws are underneath. This was one of the hardest bits to figure out as there isn't enough room to easily get at them. However the box is plastic and will give a little so with a bit of twisting and pulling I got it out this much. The two red dots are where the screws are underneath and the green arrow shows the gap I used to get at them. The picture below is a slightly confusing as I put my camera underneath and took a picture. The red arrow points to the top of the battery case and the two red circles show the screws. Using a alan key you can loosen these two enough before using your hand to unscrew them totally – take care not to drop them! Once these are out the plastic box can be removed. The ECU can then be moved out of the way (picture below)- the yellow arrows shows where to move it. For info the red circles show where those two tricky screws were. The Blue dot shows where to look for the next step. Step 4 – Access the Common Rail Finding this connector perhaps the hardest thing about fitting the tuning box as even now you can't really see it. You have to put your hand behind the engine and feel for it. The picture below shows exactly where to put your hand to find it. It's my hand in the picture and the tips of my fingers are touching the connector. I managed to get the connector out using just my hand – practice with the cable that came with the tuning box to understand how they work. Once off the cable connector itself is red in colour. You can now connect your tuning box!!! Before putting everything back I secured the box – at the moment I've put it just above the washer pump. Once it was secured I reversed the process to put everything back together. Hope it helps!
  2. I installed the Armster version and one of the best mods I could of done. Ford not installing them as standard was a real shame. Armster is leather look but is best installed with a couple of self tapping screws. http://www.armster.co.uk/
  3. Dave, there are numerous boxes that can be fitted - we have a guide on it below. Mines been fitted for 22000 miles without issue so far. http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/22050-guide-how-to-fit-a-tuning-box-to-a-fiesta-mk7-16tdci-95ps/
  4. ! Guide ! How to fit a Tuning Box to a Fiesta Mk7 1.6tdci 95ps Firstly thanks to Lez, Tone and Cliffhanger who all responded to my request for help in fitting a tuning box. In particular to Lez who supplied a couple of pictures that I have used within this guide. Firstly my reason for going for a box rather than a remap is simply the fact that I have not found anyone that can remap the 95psi version. There are loads of tuning boxes available, the one I have fitted was from tdi-tuning.co.uk and from what I can tell they all connect in the same way. Tdi-Tuning Which ever box you go for I'd strongly recommended you also by a blanking cap. Once you have fitted the tuning box its really easy to access the box itself, but to remove the cabling you will need to repeat the fitting process. By using a cap you can take the box out and replace it with the cap, which then returns the car to normal, but the cables remain. This is the one that goes with my box. http://www.tdi-tunin..._cap_P2449.html Anyway fitting the box is not the 10 minute job that the sellers quote as the common rail is not situated at the front of the engine but behind it. The picture below (from Lez) shows what the engine looks like from behind and the red circle is where the common rail is. The following is a guide of how I fitted mine, which will hopefully prove useful to members looking to fit a box to their fiesta. • Tools needed – Socket set, Set of Alan Keys. Optional – Torch and screwdriver • Time – 1 to 2 hours • Mechanic skill level – Low (I have none!) Step 1 – What needs to be removed – the Battery! There is no way to get at the common rail plug without making some space. The only thing that needs to be removed in the Battery and the case it sits in (green cross). However the ECU is also secured to the battery case (white cross) so we will also need to detach this from the battery case. The red cross I believe is the air filter and some posts I've read people say you have to remove this as well. I managed to avoid this. Step 2 – Remove the Battery Disconnect you battery and remove the 3 bolt circled in red. The battery can then be removed. Step 3 – Detach the ECU from the plastic battery case. There are 3 screws that need to be removed in order to detach the ECU from the battery case. The first is easily accessible – circle in red. Also it's a good idea to move the rubber tube (blue dot) at this point. The second two screws are actually underneath the case itself and are a bit of a pain to get to. Remove the 3 bolts securing the battery case – circled in red. The two yellow dots are approximately where the screws are underneath. This was one of the hardest bits to figure out as there isn't enough room to easily get at them. However the box is plastic and will give a little so with a bit of twisting and pulling I got it out this much. The two red dots are where the screws are underneath and the green arrow shows the gap I used to get at them. The picture below is a slightly confusing as I put my camera underneath and took a picture. The red arrow points to the top of the battery case and the two red circles show the screws. Using a alan key you can loosen these two enough before using your hand to unscrew them totally – take care not to drop them! Once these are out the plastic box can be removed. The ECU can then be moved out of the way (picture below)- the yellow arrows shows where to move it. For info the red circles show where those two tricky screws were. The Blue dot shows where to look for the next step. Step 4 – Access the Common Rail Finding this connector perhaps the hardest thing about fitting the tuning box as even now you can't really see it. You have to put your hand behind the engine and feel for it. The picture below shows exactly where to put your hand to find it. It's my hand in the picture and the tips of my fingers are touching the connector. I managed to get the connector out using just my hand – practice with the cable that came with the tuning box to understand how they work. Once off the cable connector itself is red in colour. You can now connect your tuning box!!! Before putting everything back I secured the box – at the moment I've put it just above the washer pump. Once it was secured I reversed the process to put everything back together. Hope it helps!
  5. A remap would of been my first choice but at the time the tdci 95ps could not be remapped, not sure it can be done now. Instead I fitted a tuning box and achieved similar results
  6. Luke have you found the module? That's the first part. Then post a picture and we can point you in the right direction.
  7. I did look at them but at nearly £400 it put me off. Do you have any info to back up the 'it loads' quicker - what does that mean? Might be useful for future people looking for a box solution.
  8. Problem is with Apple not Ford. Ios5 is the problem
  9. Problem looks common across all ford models https://discussions.apple.com/thread/3394718?start=0&tstart=0
  10. Since ios5 my 3gs and now 4s are having exact same issues as described. Hopefully Apple will correct the problem with an update soon.
  11. If its a box you sre trying to fit then i suspect it the ssme or very similar to the 95ps engine so this should help www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/22050-guide-how-to-fit-a-tuning-box-to-a-fiesta-mk7-16tdci-95ps/
  12. Glad it helped. I've now done 10000 miles with my box fitted and no problems to report.
  13. Got mine from here : www.tdi-tuning.co.uk/ Was around £280 from memory. Plus it adds about £80-£100 to your insurance - if you tell them.
  14. I fitted a tuning box to my 60 plate 1.6tdci 95bhp Fiesta, pushed it up to 115bhp. Much better all round feel and have now done 10000 miles (150 miles a day)and car is running faultless and my mpg average is 63mpg.
  15. There are only 4 things that stand between you the road and everything else around you. Given how important those 4 tyres therefore are its one thing I never skimp on - Bridgestones are one of the best and its worth the extra money.