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Budding Enthusiast
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About mondy-man

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  • Ford Model
    Ford Mondeo 1.8 Zetec
  1. I hope i'm not right too, but I think big-end noise can go when it's warmed up (especially in Brunei!) or at least get quieter, i'm not absolutely sure :( Good luck anyhow
  2. Nasty noise! Hard to tell with my crappy little speakers but sounds like it could be the big-ends that have gone (very bad news). I'm not going to rule out that it could be the chain, as unlike motorcycles the chain is moving faster (even at idle) than a motorbike's does and it's inside a metal cover when a motorbike's is outside, so it would sound different. I think you need a proper opinion on the noise by a professional in person before you fork out for anything. If it is the big-ends, you'll need a full engine rebuild :(. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful!
  3. Seems unlikely, so I wouldn't bother unless that actually has happened - it's just more money out of your pocket! All those guides really do is keep the chain in place and dampen any rattling, they don't apply any real pressure onto the chain. Since yours is high mileage the plastic would have worn a bit but there's a good 5mm of plastic on the metal. Don't buy any of that unless you've seen the part needs replacing. Hope i've helped!
  4. I suppose if the injectors are tapping its because the fuel isn't flowing back along the inside of the injectors and lubricating them, but i'm not sure on that one. Sounds like the valve clearances weren't adjusted properly when the camshaft was changed, which would cause a light tapping noise, but I'd have to hear the noise to be sure. Don't go forking out for injectors until you're sure because they're VERY expensive! Seems you're not having much luck with the car :(
  5. I haven't done it on that engine in situ, but it should be possible, just a bit fiddly!
  6. You could just replace the tensioner, and that might stop the noise. But its possible that it won't as the chain may have stretched. As a matter of course since the chain is likely original and has done 140k miles and probably needs replacement anyway, i'd always change it on that sort of job. There's no point skimping on the chain because if it goes, you'll kill the engine (which would cost a lot more to fix than the cost of a chain). You'll probably get away with the guides though, but check their condition anyway. Hope this helps!
  7. It's probably like that because all the car's weight is at the front. If the back seats, boot & tank are empty then the rear's gonna look higher than the front. It could be that the rear's okay, and the front springs have sagged and need replacing.
  8. You may as well keep the revs low as that's where all the torque is, and you'll save yourself fuel. Diesels don't like being thrashed and they've got such a small powerband that it's not really worth it. Keep the revs low and ride the torque wave!
  9. If the squeak/whistle disappears when you push the clutch in all the way, then it's definitely the clutch release bearing. As for the other noise, it could well be either the auxiliary belt (squealing when cold, louder when pulling away, quieter when warmed up) or the flywheel (never heard of 'DMF' before but probably means dual-mass flywheel). As what others have said, change the flywheel soon before it writes off the starter motor. Hope this helps!
  10. You're right about the 200 bar, your engine is a direct-injection diesel and they need incredibly high pressures to operate properly (enough to cut you in half!). Since the fuel pressure is so low (on a par with a petrol engine) there's not enough force to open the injectors, therefore it cuts out. I don't think it's the fuel filter, as the problem would build up over time, and you'd get less and less power before it finally cut out. More likely the diesel pump (on the right side of the front of the engine, driven by the cam timing chain) or the fuel pressure regulator. As someone else said, check the fault codes in the ECU and see what comes up. Hope this helps!
  11. You've got too much negative camber on the rear wheels. If you can't see anything wrong in particular then get the wheels aligned to offset the effect of the camber. Does the car sit low at the rear?
  12. £15 is about 11 litres (2.4 gallons) so you're getting roughly 24-25 mpg. Do you do a lot of town driving?
  13. If you can, do a cylinder leakage test or a compression test. If doing a compression test, each cylinder will probably show low/no compression in your case. put a little oil in each cylinder and do the test again. If compression is normal then its the piston rings. If it is still low then its the top end (valve guides, head gasket etc.) thats the problem. Hope this helps!