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grahamp

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    103
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About grahamp

  • Rank
    Feet Under The Table

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    graham

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Focus Estate 1.6TDCi
  • Ford Year
    2008
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Surrey
  • Annual Mileage
    0 to 5000
  • Interests
    General Automotive
    Car Restoration
  1. 2008 1.6TDCi (90) estate, 60k: 60 - 62mpg on motorways, if you do nothing but short school runs in winter the worst case scenario it'll drop to about 53, averages around 58 so with the £30 tax disc its cheap to run.
  2. For the rears, if you buy the expensive Laser tool you need the Ford adaptor too. Cheaper alternatives can be had for around a tenner though.
  3. Dunno really... when I was thinking about doing the job I did wonder if I could get away with taking the sump off with the pipe in place, but as I always intended to tackle the turbo oil feed I didn't investigate. Its not accessing the bolts that's the issue, just the fact its just generally in the way. You could get under and have a look, measure the length of the 2 studs vs the gap between sump and exhaust, add a bit for manouvering and add a bit more for luck, and if the gap's bigger than the stud then I guess you might get away with it. You can access all the bolts with the exhaust in place I think, though tightening you should use a torque wrench... Haynes manual Sump Removal section says remove cat section of exhaust in step #3. Ford's ETIS software doesn't mention it though. Before I ordered any parts I made sure I would be able to get the exhaust off by undoing a couple of nuts etc, so if I were you have a look under and see what you think.
  4. In terms of difficulty removing sump I did find it tricky which was mainly down to the fact I'd never done one before and they stick like limpets. I needed both studs removed in order to free it, sump removal tool to break seal and pry bar to lever it off. When it popped off I realised its pretty easy, i was just worried about knackering something. I had bigger probs getting it on.. I think there's a slight manufacturing fault with the stud hole on the gearbox side. Oil can leak past the stud and Ford have a revised TSB for the sump where u go round both sides of the hole with sealant. I found the thread in the hole was slightly damaged, it was very tricky getting it started and when trying to torque to 12nm the end of the stud sheared off. A garage might use a tap on the bolt hole but a DIY guy without resources could be in trouble.
  5. You can generate a service schedule at WWW.Etis.ford.com or the Haynes manual is pretty good, and of course this forum. In terms of servicing yourself .. jacking / supporting is a bit sketchy, fuel system can be hard to prime, cabin filter is a bit of a pain, otherwise it's a very straightforward car .you might be able to get sump off without disturbing cat pipe but getting it on might be a pain.. it will have wet sealant, you'll need to get it over both bolt studs and there are a lot of bolts to torque up in 5 mins before sealant goes off. But it might be possible.
  6. Banjo bolt is £6.35+vat, you should change the 2 copper washers at the same time, a bit pricey at £4.60+vat for the 2. I might get a guide up this evening if I've got time, after sanding & teak oiling the garden furniture :-/
  7. I'm going to put a how-to in the guides section on replacing the banjo filter, but imo if its getting blocked that's a sign of a problem elsewhere.. you shouldn't have carbon in the oil to block the filter in the first place. If you change the filter there's a chance it could be blocked again with in a couple of thousand miles so I think its a bit pointless changing it as a service item. The new design of banjo filter is less likely to block than the original though. Essentially all that has to happen on top of what you'd do for an oil change is detach the charged air cooler pipe and remove the cat section of exhaust to gain access. If your car has a DPF its more of a pain. I'll detail all that in the guides section when I get a chance, but once its off there's the banjo bolt, so I think a competent garage ought to be able to do a non DPF car within an hour.
  8. In case anyone's interested, did my car over the weekend, replaced banjo bolts, feed pipe, sump off, cleaned out etc. Car is a 2008 90bhp with no DPF, on 58000 miles. Serviced twice by Ford at 14k and 32k with semi-synthetic, then when I bought at 46k, then 54 and 57k and now again at 58. Luckily I stock up on Magnatec when its £18 from ECP. So quite long intervals between first services and with all the horror stories I decided I'd rather replace possibly OK parts than wait for it to go bang. I found the banjo bolt filter was fine, the feed pipe was fine, as was the return, all completely normal. Ford have changed the design of the filter - original parts have the filter in the end of the bolt presenting a small surface area, the revised design has the filter inside the bolt so there's a bigger surface area, therefore less likely to block. So a bit of a waste of time and money but at least I know what's going on under the bonnet. As for the sump, that was worthwhile. I decided not to bother removing the pickup pick and just fired a can of brake cleaner up through the mesh in the bottom. Each shot of cleaner caused a big load of black gloop to come out. The bottom of the sump holds about 1/4 litre of oil so it ends up contaminating any clean oil that gets put in. Dunno if anyone's had success using a vacuum drainer, the dipstick tube has a couple of kinks in so it might be tricky pushing a tube all the way to the bottom. I was glad I got it all cleaned out, and the oil is still coming up clean on the dipstick which makes a nice change from it turning straight to ink. I'll stick a how-to guide in the Guides section if I get time, there were a few gotchas and the usual "why did I start this ****ing job" moments so it might be helpful for someone. So the conclusion.... don't believe all the scare stories about these being unreliable engines - unless your turbo has gone bang of course :-( there must be some factor that causes the carbonisation problems, either leaking injectors, blocked DPF, poor oil servicing or a combination of the above - or who knows. The question is how would you tell if you had an injector problem or a blocked DPF before the damage gets done? I dunno if there's something an owner can do to diagnose those faults, I guess the problem is hidden away until its too late.
  9. hmmm, couple of months ago I put a pair of Efficientgrips on mine, 205/55R16V, £144 all in through black circles. But yeah its worth googling around to make sure its still competitive. Tescos Tyres is a white-label reskin of the Blackcircles site, so it all goes through there plus you get clubcard points, and the Tesco site was originally coming up a fair bit cheaper!
  10. Country and Western cd stuck in the stereo maybe?
  11. Goodyear EfficientGrip came top in a recent Autoexpress grouptest, buy em through Blackcircles as mentioned and save some £££s http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessories-tyres/60112/goodyear-efficientgrip
  12. I've got one of these for when I finally get round to it. http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0012332TU/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  13. How did you bleed it? If you followed Haynes I guess you fitted an inline hand pump and did it that way? One tip I've heard is to switch the ignition on and off without starting it 7 or so times, the electric pump should do the job for you apparently. These are notorious and I've got one to do myself, I'm dreading it
  14. A common place for a crack is in the long metal pipe from the turbo outlet to the intercooler... its the large metal pipe that runs around in front of the turbo heat shield in your pic above. Have a look where it bends down for any cracks as that is a known weakness.
  15. Not hugely accurate but you could carefully stick some bluetac in the hole, measure it and compare against this chart.. http://www.wihatools.com/Marketing/torxspec.htm and then get a couple of the nearest ones. Something like a T55 on a 1/2" socket would cost you about £4 all in. I could be wrong but I think those bolts are 65Nm torque, so a T40 or T45 are in spec for that.