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SeaGrey

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    19
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About SeaGrey

  • Rank
    Member

Contact Methods

  • First Name Fred

Profile Information

  • Gender* Male
  • Ford Model Focus Estate Titanium
  • Ford Year 2010
  • UK/Ireland Location Cheshire
  • Annual Mileage 0 to 5000
  1. Excessive Battery Drain

    Looking back to the problems I was having, I'm putting it down to a combination of slightly aging battery and lack of experience. The first thing I did was 'realise' that modern cars do simply drain the battery more than older cars when parked. This surprised/annoyed me, but now I just live with it. As advised here, I suspected that the battery was beyond its best having been flatted a few times, so bought a new Bosch S5 Silver, which wasn't cheap at £100, but straight away higher capacity than the original. Like Stoney871, the original battery was 4 years old when I replaced it with this new S5. I too had never seen any low battery lights, despite issues. I then purchased a CTEK MXS 5.0 'smart' charger, and now when I go on holiday for, say, 2 weeks, I run the car's battery through a 'conditioning' cycle when I get back. I also run through this cycle every couple of months, as the car is mainly used for short journeys (my wife's daily commute). I now think a modern diesel like my Focus cannot simply rely on alternator battery charging alone when mainly driven in slow traffic each day. With the CTEK MXS 5.0, my battery now consistently stays above 12.6/12.7V after being parked overnight, which is just about perfect in my view. As mentioned above, I think if it starts dipping to 12.4V it might be necessary to do more than simply driving the car to recharge the battery. It's too early to say yet, but I'm confident that an intelligent charger like the MXS 5.0 does improve the battery's lifespan and performance, so will pay for itself in, say, 10 years - and more if you have more than one car or battery (I also use it to top up a leisure battery I take camping to power the fridge). Another little tip - I wanted to get a decent phone charger, and went with the an item by Capdase called the T2 charger/monitor which displays battery voltage. We leave this plugged in all the time so we can view the current battery voltage, which might seem daft considering what I've said before, but this charger has an insignificant drain on the battery (couldn't detect any difference in drain using an ammeter). I've compared its voltage readout using an expensive DVM on the battery, and it's spot on, hence I'm confident in saying my car battery is always around 12.6V when parked. Oh, and one final point, when I spent time a year so back monitoring the battery at different times, I noticed that there are about 4 different levels of battery consumption when the car is parked : engine is off, but main electrics still on (Power button pressed on without clutch pedal) engine is off (Power button off) but car not locked/alarmed engine is off and car locked/alarmed same a 3. but after being left for about 20 minutes, i.e. sleep modeThere's a considerable difference in battery current drain comparing the above situations (can't remember exact figures now). So anything preventing the car reaching level 4. will drain battery excessively. Symptoms of it not going into sleep mode are the main LED dash board console staying on all the time, i.e. faulty boot closure sensor. Good luck !
  2. Halfords Autocentres

    Glad I'm not the only one who expects the steering wheel to be in a straight line after having work done on my car !
  3. Excessive Battery Drain

    I know what you mean, it does just sound like I'm being a bit daft - but on previous cars we used to leave the same Garmin unit plugged in all the time without ever flatting the battery. In fact, this is the first car I've had (since my old RS Mexico) that has flatted the battery just while parked up overnight. It could just be that I need to get used to more modern vehicles, i.e. maybe they use a bit more power when parked, i.e. ECU, alarm and any other electric gizmos that still draw some current. So I'm just wondering if people find that their newer cars have more problems with batteries going dead, just through general, but perhaps slightly careless use, as in my case. I mean how much electricity can a SatNav drain while on charge ? Surely a car battery has the capacity to charge a thousand SatNavs ?
  4. Excessive Battery Drain

    I'm trying to work out if my car has a fault that's draining the battery excessively, or perhaps that the battery itself is knackered (car is a 2010 TDCi Titanium). If I leave a SatNav plugged into the interior 12V socket to charge (unit turned off), should this cause the battery to go flat within a couple of days ? The battery has gone flat a few times lately while parked, preventing the car from starting the next morning. There are no lights left on, it's double locked and alarmed etc..the only thing I can think of that's using power is the SatNav. It was flat again this morning. I'd driven about 50 miles on Sunday, and my wife about 10 miles yesterday. The SatNav had been plugged in since Sunday. I actually took the car to Halfords on Sunday after the 50 mile drive, for a battery diagnostic test, and they found nothing wrong with the battery and charging voltages. The only thing he noticed was that the overall battery voltage was low, which suggested it wasn't getting fully charged. He suggested our problem could be because we only do short journeys with the lights on etc.. but I replied saying that could represent almost all drivers ! Besides, 60 miles in 2 days isn't exactly short journeys, and my battery was dead this morning. While the battery was flat, I checked it with a voltmeter. It read 8.5V with the car unlocked, door open. It read 9.0V with the doors locked and car alarmed. With the wiring disconnected from the battery it read 10.5V So it's still on charge now - something I'm getting used to. Anyone else had any similar experiences ? Also - just curious to know - I always disconnect the wiring from the battery before charging it. Is this necessary ?
  5. Advice/experiences Of Windscreen Replacement

    Thanks for the replies. Nationwide said I'm not covered for a bad scratch, only a chip. There's a possibility that the fitter will claim the damage doesn't warrant replacement, i.e. he will classify this as a scratch. What are the guidelines on this ? I hear all the time about people getting chips on their windscreen. Maybe I was just really unlucky to have a large item hit my windscreen but not actually chip it, just scratch it in a few places.
  6. Mk 2.5 Bonnet Heat Shield

    This might sound obvious, but you'll need the plastic clips as well - there's no way of holding it in place without these. I think there are about 12 in total on mine.
  7. My windscreen was hit recently while driving on the motorway. Whatever hit the screen was large enough that I saw it bouncing along the road before hitting me - I think it was something metal, i.e. a large bolt. Anyhow, the screen didn't crack (unlike my eardrums from the 'bang' noise it made !). Credit to the Saint Gobain glass that Ford use. There is some damage, in at least three places as the object sort of rolled up the screen. They're more like very heavy grazes, and not sharp scratch lines, or deep chips. But you can feel them when you rub your finger nail over them. Anyhow, I've contacted my insurer and Nationwide are booked to assess the damage next week. I've made sure they know mine is a Titanium, and in case they decide to replace the screen, I just want to check what I need to make sure is working afterwards: ClearScreen heaters (not sure how to test this when it's not frosty) Auto Wipers (not sure where the sensor is for this) Auto-lights (maybe nothing to do with the windscreen, just the rear-view mirror) Before and after position of the wipers (assuming they get removed). Does this sound correct - what else will need checking for functionality ? Nationwide have said they'll use a Pilkington screen. My car is 3-1/2 years old, so out of warranty, so I probably can't expect anything better than Pilkington via insurance. I will first try and get Nationwide to repair the window, i.e. polish out the marks. In my view, a replacement is the last resort as I'll just be worried about the fitter doing a crap job. In my experience, as soon as any work is done to your car, it's usually not as good as what was there originally, and you soon appreciate the quality, tools and skills that Ford used back at the factory - if you know what I mean ! What would you do in my position - has anyone had any recent bad experiences with having a wind-screen replacement ? I could just leave the scratches as they are and ignore them, and pay nothing ?
  8. Confused About 2Nd Service

    Where is the 'official' info from Ford stating that the 3rd service is the major one ? Surely we've all got the same service book haven't we ? It's the official Service Portfolio that came with my new car in 2010. I can't be the first person to question this, surely not ??!!
  9. Confused About 2Nd Service

    My Service Portfolio (log book) clearly states that the 2nd service is a Major service. This is echoed by the ETIS website. Yet when I speak to my local Ford Dealers, they say that I'm only entitled to an interim service at year 2, and that the major service is at year 3. Ford (ETIS) state that it's an interim service at year 3. And why do Ford state that the brake fluid should be changed every 2 years during the Extended Protection warranty period, yet dealers say this is 'advisory' and a chargeable extra if the customer wants it... Who's right, who's wrong.... If I'm only getting another interim service at year 2, why am I being charged double compared to the year 1 service, which was also interim ?
  10. Faulty Esp ?

    Just been for a test in a local carpark. There's no snow but it was wet so I could get some wheelspin. With ESP selected, if I wheelspin, there are 2 distinct noises: 1) A buzzing/whirring from the gearbox 2) A loud thumping/knocking which you can feel through the wheel/pedals If I deactivate ESP (remove the 'X' from the menu, such that the yellow 'skid' light stays on) and do a wheelspin, I only get noise number 1 from above. Yesterday in the snow, it's possible that I had successfully deactivated ESP (the 'X' wasn't in the menu box) however, I was getting noise number 1 all the time, and as I had no traction, it was making me think ESP was kicking in still. Noise number 2 does seem to be ESP in my view, i.e. taking power off the driveshaft(s). But what's noise number 1 ?
  11. Faulty Esp ?

    Are you guys seriously saying I can't turn off ESP, and that unticking the ESP box in the menu doesn't do anything ? Or do I have to deactivate it before turning the engine on ? I know what the correct technique is for driving in snow ice and have driven in these conditions many times without much difficulty (including previous Focus cars). I'm moving to the Alps later this year with my family and was planning on taking this car with me. But even with winter tyres/chains, you have to be able to deactivate ESP in the snow. Sounds like I'll have to sell this now, which is gutting.
  12. Faulty Esp ?

    Are you guys seriously saying I can't turn off ESP, and that unticking the ESP box in the menu doesn't do anything ? I know what the correct technique is for driving in snow ice and have driven in these conditions many times without much difficulty (including previous Focus cars). I'm moving to the Alps later this year with my family and was planning on taking this car with me. But even with winter tyres/chains, you have to be able to deactivate ESP in the snow. Sounds like I'll have to sell this now, which is gutting.
  13. Faulty Esp ?

    Yesterday was the first time I'd tried using my 2010 Focus in snowy conditions, and it was a total nightmare resulting in me abandoning the car despite other cars coping. Basically, there was hardly any power getting to the wheels and a horrible loud buzzing/chattering coming from the gearbox. It made no difference whether I had ESP selected or not from the menu, the orange ESP (skid) light was always on. It was doing the same when braking on downhill sections. I understand how ESP works, so initially, but was hoping that by turning it off, I could then 'wheel-spin' through the snow allowing the tyres to reach the tarmcac a bit (it was fresh snow, no ice underneath). This is how other cars were coping, and I've done this many times before in other cars when getting caught out in snow. If I need a new ESP module/sensor under warranty, then fair enough, but will this awful chattering noise have damaged something ? It really sounded like it was coming from the gearbox, so I'm worried something will have been damaged. Any thoughts ?
  14. I have the same problem (with the same car as yours). There's too much road noise from the driver's side door and if you look outside when it's closed, the door is slightly proud of the side pillar. However, my problem is that even if I've loosened the Torx bolts, the striker plate/catch doesn't move, so I'm not convinced there is any adjustment that can be made. With previous Fords I've owned, the striker plate can slide back and forth once the bolts are loose. It's seems not with the later stuff (:
  15. Discrepancies With User's Manual

    Is it not more likely that it's compulsory under EC regulations, and somehow the UK doesn't have to comply ?