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1979Damian

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    146
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About 1979Damian

  • Rank
    Feet Under The Table

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Damian

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    MK2 Focus 1.8 TDCi Ghia (Saloon)
  • Ford Year
    2005
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Yorkshire
  • Annual Mileage
    5001 to 10,000

Previous Fields

  • Location
    Rotherham

Recent Profile Visitors

1,569 profile views
  1. You need to checked for stored error codes, if you want to save money paying a dealer to plug their computer in you can purchase a cable that can be used on a laptop with software called Forscan. It allows you to now just see stored codes but it can be left monitoring whilst you're driving, which can be usedful when trying to diagnose an intermittent issue.
  2. That's a good price, do you know if they fitted a genuine Ford bearing? I ask because a few people on the forum have had none Ford bearings fitted and they haven't lasted that long.
  3. The panel is typically referred to as the 'rear quarter panel', unless it's smashed to bits a bodyshop will using 'pull out' any dents and smooth over with filler. A whack on a wheel from the side isn't great because it can bend suspension components, although as long as the chassis itself isn't damaged it should just be a case of a garage replacing any damaged suspension components and then checking the wheels are aligned correctly. From the pictures it doesn't look like it was a particularly large impact so hopefully it'll just be cosmetic work that needs doing.
  4. Yes mate, it should be manufactured by Garrett, I think Garrett's model number for the Mk2 1.8 TDCI turbo is 'Garrett GT17V VNT' if you want to google it for more information.
  5. ebay because a new head unit from Ford will cost £££££££!
  6. What an absolute SPANNER!
  7. It could be, but it could be something as simple as a failing engine mount. The top engine mount on the drivers side has a fluid filled 'bladder' in it that has a habit of cracking due to old age, with no fluid in it the mount stops absorbing the engine vibrations (of which there are many with most older diesel engines) and you get a bit of rattling/vibration through the pedal and/or the bulk head when idling. To be honest there is no way to be sure if the DMF is on it's way out, the LUK brand DMF for this engine tends to be pretty solid I'm currently on 128K without any DMF related worries and there are others that have cover 150K+. If the car is otherwise in really good nick i.e. it feels like it's been cared for, I guess like all used cars it's a bit of a gamble. I've driven 2 vehicles previously where the DMF was (and did) fail, both exhibited a 'tapping' sensation through the clutch pedal when it was pressed down, until the point the DMF went bang! (literally) Is the car being sold by a dealer or privately?
  8. Does the sound change/stop when you push the clutch down?
  9. Hi all, I had the infamous joint leak, I sourced the O-Rings from Ford and got them fitted (with a bit of butchery to the plastics to get the heater matrix out). However I can't seem to apply enough pressure to compress the o-rings enough to get the black clips back on. Does anyone who has done this job before have any bright ideas, rather than me paying £££ to a garage to remove the dash and do the job 'properly'?
  10. Just got back in from checking the upper part of the footwell and it appears to be good news. I've got the jointed pipes so no cutting involved, there is no evidence of coolant above the joint in the pipe so it looks like the matrix is fine & it's the seal/collar that seals the pipe joint that is at fault. The 'collar' that's leaking is that loose it can be rotated, the other one is rock solid. (Panic over!) Thanks to Alb in the 1st instance for starting me on the right path & pky for adding some useful extra detail. I'll post back once I get chance to try fixing it (I'm working away through the week so if I can't find somewhere tomorrow to source the part it will be weekend before I can update. Thanks again
  11. That sounds like better news, I didn't realise it was a relatively common issue unlike a few other things we could all mention! I'll take your advice & have a trawl through the forum.
  12. I'll have to take a closer look tomorrow but according to the Haynes manual the early build MK2s used single length steel pipes that have to be cut to remove the matrix, the newer builds have jointed pipes.
  13. BOOM!..You are the man....Just been out to the car to check the footwells and I carbon wrapped a load of interior parts a few months ago so it didn't take much looking to see the tell tale signs of coolant leaking into the cabin. I removed the drivers side trim & pulled the carpet back & it's immediately obvious that large amounts of coolant have been making their way under the carpet & out of the underbody drains. Time to look in the Haynes manual to see how hard it is to get access to the matrix/pipes etc.
  14. The 1.8 TDCI is an old Ford unit with the modern bits bolted on (high pressure fuel rail, turbo etc), it doesn't have a DPF & other than a dodgy batch of injectors is pretty much bulletproof. It's a heavy old lump (cast engine block rather than the aluminium which is used in the 1.6/2.0 TDCI's which both have DPF's), it's not as refined as the 2.0 TDCI but you don't really notice it when driving, just when it's idling or you're stood next to it with the engine running.
  15. Hi all, For the last couple of months I've been getting an intermittent slight engine vibration. Occasionally when the car is idling, the rev counter stays where it should be but I I can feel a slightly shudder/vibration. Engaging the clutch doesn't change anything so I thought I'd check the engine mounts seeing as I had a few bits to do on the car today. I'm assuming that the 'bladder' in the top mount isn't supposed to have a massive bubble in it? I'd estimate that the bubble is around 10mm proud of the rest of the mount (the picture doesn't show 'depth' very well. Assuming that it's not meant to look like that, has anyone replaced the mount on a Lynx engine? It appears to be a relatively straight forward job to replace, I just need to ensure the engine is adequately supported. Has anyone who has replaced one used a non Ford mount? I'm only asking about non-Ford mounts because Trust Ford Wakefield wanted £120+ inc. VAT for genuine part!