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Budding Enthusiast
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About ajt

  • Rank
    Feet Under The Table
  • Birthday 12/19/1968

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  • Gender*
  • Ford Model
    Focus Zetec Climate 5dr TDCi 1.6
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
  • Annual Mileage
    5001 to 10,000
  • Interests
    General Automotive
    Car Modification
    Computers & Electronics

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  1. It could be oil from the oil feed to the turbo. I assume by small tank you mean the one that has a mechanical linkage to the turbo, and a rubber pipe coming out of it (it controls the boost). If the oil pipe is leaking then this is bad and needs to be remedied as soon as possible. Just as importantly the cause needs to be identified. It is most likely the feed /return pipe is blocked with carbon bits causing excessive pressure in the line. How regularly do you do oil changes (miles driven)? Are any of the injectors leaking (wet around the injector hole), if so there is a direct caviar and effect regarding turbo failure?
  2. Just thought I'd update, two years on and the arms are still going strong, just passed MOT (one advisory on NS Front Shock, slightly wet?)
  3. NOT A DESIGN FAULT.... incorrect installation fault, if anything
  4. Sorry, can't help with identification, but would love you to take pics and post the steps when doing your head.
  5. @dazj Just another thought, is your turbo OK? No strange whooshing noises or the anything else that at some point in the not to distant past has made you think "hmm, that's not the usual noise I get when I drive like this"
  6. @dazj, I'm sorry but I must be thick, please explain how your fault is "exactly the same" as the original OP. If it is the word "smoke" then maybe you missed that the original OP smoke was coming from a glow plug connection and yours is from the exhaust!? Other than the word "smoke", and the "no fault lights" I fail to see how your issue has anything to do with this post. I don't have any warning lights on my dash and occasionally if I boot it I might get a little smoke out the exhaust, I would say you have more in common with my car than the original OP. Or are you suggesting that maybe I should think about changing my loom as well? (Just kidding). I think your best bet is to start a thread of your own, clearly stating the symptoms you actually have. You will probably get better answers. PS: I wasn't joking about disconnecting the MAF/MAP (not sure which you have), and report back any difference it makes, but please start a new post.
  7. Did you read post 9? ...and when you say your car exhibits exactly same fault as OP, smoking and burning! Yet you say it still drives fine until up to normal operating temperature. Are you sure you have posted in the right thread? You could try unplugging the MAF/MAP(?) on the airt intake and see if this makes any difference.
  8. Have you checked out this thread Does seem like the garage has pulled a fast one, assumed it was pump, but then found out is is the cluster. Extremely unlikely the pump failed AND the cluster at the same time. The above post seems to indicate that a diagnostic session might clear the problem.
  9. The bit that worries me is you say it takes about a minute to build the vacuum? This is obviously not right. I would have thought more like a couple of seconds would be normal.
  10. I did my fuel filter last year and had a pig of a time trying to start it. In desperation I got a neighbour to give me a tow start and within 15 meters was running fine.
  11. Is your car petrol or diesel? You may want to include the details from "your last post" in this one, it saves people who may be able to offer advice having to hunt other posts for the information. I'm going to stick my neck out, based on length of time it takes to build up vacuum (how are you measuring this), and guess your car is diesel and it is a problem with the vacuum pump.
  12. Does the engine have an Idle Air Control Valve (IACV), if it does I would be looking at that first, i.e. disconnect completely and restart the car and see how it behaves.
  13. Possibly a slight vacuum leak around the inlet manifold somewhere, vacuum leaks tend to be most noticeable at idle. Check out youtube and search "vacuum leak detection using propane". Do not use carb cleaner as directed by some, very dangerous, and if you do try it, remember you only need a whiff of propane, not a gale force blast, and do it in a well ventilated area, i.e outside.
  14. When you say regas do you mean regas - refrigerant recovered, drier replaced, vacuum down, refrigerant and bit of oil back in or do you mean a bit more gas was added to what ever was already in the system? If the later what was the criteria for the ammount of R134a put in? You also said it works fine when sitting on drive idling, but stops as soon as you pull off? Is this repeatable, and if so, I believe tha carputer uses lots of the sensors to see if it can give power to the aircon. Are there any other strange things going on with day to day driving?
  15. @Stoney, i'd give up mate, OP seems to be ignoring you. ;) So most likely cause was just crank sensor?