Budding Enthusiast
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About mtc

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  • Gender*
  • Ford Model
    Mondeo, Fiesta, New Ka
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
  • Annual Mileage
    5001 to 10,000
  • Interests
    Classic Cars
    General Automotive
    Motorsport & Racing
    Car Restoration
    Car Modification
  1. Hi Dezwez, Will have a look to see if they're there? Many thanks for the advice
  2. Hi all, I have a 2006 Fiesta Zetec with the 6000 radio / CD player (the one with the large round volume control in the centre) I have the lower steering column cover and remote audio control switch but have no idea how to connect to the player as i have no wiring loom or a diagram to show what goes where. Can anyone advise connections etc? Thanks
  3. I have a genuine radiant red RS turbo front bumper/spoiler with slight rub mark on o/s and will reqiure a black insert but no probs if you respray it to your colour. Someone rubbed against it in a car park so I had a new one fitted.
  4. Thank you dezwez
  5. Sorry for the late intro, only just come across this page! Currently running a Mk3 2.0 Mondeo Zetec, 1.25 Fiesta Zetec and new KA 1.3 tdci Zetec. Previously had MkII Escort 1300 Sport, Mk2 Escort Mexico, Fiesta Mk1 XR2, Fiesta Mk2 XR2, Escort MK4 XR3i, RS Turbo Mk4 and have always carried out all work and maint (lucky as my Brother in Law has his own garage). Occasionally looking for advice but always willing to give as well (especially on the RST) which I had for 16 years from new and was still like brand new before reluctantly selling to an enthusiast. So if I can help at all please post and I'll do my best MTC
  6. yep, fairly easy. First you need to remove the small plastic screw cover disc from the inner door mirror cover and then remove the screw and the plastic cover. Next remove the similar cover disc from inside the inner door realease handle and remove the screw (torx - these are star shaped screw heads requiring torx bits) and the inner door release handle cover. Next remove the inner door pull handle cover (the one you put your hand into to pull the door shut) this is done by placing a thin blade between the cover and door card and prising the cover inwards towards the door card. Underneath this cover will be 2 screws that need to be removed. Next remove the 6 screws holding the door card to the door, 2 at the hinge side, 2 at the door lock side, and 2 underneath. Pull the door card away from the door at the bottom and lift up slghly to remove the card. Do not pull the card to far from the door as you will need to unplug the eletric window loom plug from the switch. Place the door card to one side. Next remove the plastic grommet from the door lock face of the door, it's above the lock and in line with the outer door handle. Behind this grommet will be the outer door handle retaining screw, remove the screw (torx) then pull the outer door handle out and remove the back part of the handle that remains staionary along with the seal. Next slide the outer door handle back and pull out to remove. Carefully peel back the inner door shield enough to access the inner part of the door handle and lock mechanism. Remove the electric plug from the lock, there is a catch on the door skin side of the plug that will need to be pressed in to release the plug. Remove the 2 screws holding the inner door handle in position (torx) and then the 3 screws holding the lock mechanism to the door. Slide the inner part of the door handle forwards to release the handle. The door lock and handle assy should now be free. Unclip the door pull outer cable from the door lock and then rotate the lock to allow the inner cable to be removed. The complete assy will now be free. Unclip the upper door handle assy from the lock and twist so that the metal rod can be detached from the lock. To test the wiring there are 3 wires in the plug 2 yellow and 1 black, test between yellow and black and when the central locking is activated you should get 12v for abut 1/2 a second if not test between the other yellow and black (1 yellow is for locking - the other yellow is for double locking) If you get 12v then the wiring is ok. If you get a lock from a breakers then plug it into the loom before fitting and activate the central locking - you will see and hear if i's working. To test the lock put 12v across 2 of the 3pins (can't remember which ones but try all combinations and either it will work or not!) Relacement is a reversal of the above. Hope this helps MTC
  7. Hi Paul, Got it sorted - removed the door card and found the connector which has 3 wires, ground, lock and double lock. Tested between lock and ground and when the central locking was activated I got 12v for about half a second. Put 12v across the lock motor and nothing. Got a door lock c/w motor from local breakers and now fitted and working fine. Not too bad a job to do in the end. Managed to get hold of a Ford TIS Disc which helped - Copied it for future use! Many thanks mtc
  8. Hi paul, Thanks for the welcome and you kind response, have you any idea which wires I should test or maybe it's obvious once I get it apart? I guess once I find the correct wires I could try 12v across it to see if it works. Thanks
  9. Sorry if this is a repeat of someone else's past problem but I have a 2001 MK3 2.0 Mondeo Zetec and the passenger door central locking will not work when using the remote or the key in the door. All other doors will lock and unlock with the remote and key in the drivers door lock. The passenger door will lock manually on it's own, but will not lock/unlock all other doors when locked/unlocked. If I remove the door card to access the mechanism is there any way of testing the locking soleniod etc and which wires should I use and how should I test? Any advice would be most appreciated.