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Petar

Budding Enthusiast
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About Petar

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    Member

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  • First Name Petar

Profile Information

  • Gender* Male
  • Ford Model Focus MKII Futura Wagon
  • Ford Year 2005
  • UK/Ireland Location Other/NonUK
  • Annual Mileage 0 to 5000
  1. This guide was originally written by me for the Dutch Focus Club forum but I figured it will be helpful to re-post it here as well. Enjoy! What is the Ford USB Music Box? Read here: http://media.ford.com/article_display.cfm?article_id=35755 A separate website for the product itself is here:http://www.ford-musicbox.eu/ From this site you can download also the user manual. Here's a direct link to that: http://www.ford-musicbox.eu/documents/UserManual%20MBX01.pdf Price: I bought mine in the Netherlands from an official dealer for 99EUR (see more below). Installation costs were obviously not included. The price quoted for the USB Music Box + installation was ~170EUR. DISCLAIMER You are in no way obligated to follow these instructions. Following this manual will require you to disassemble elements from your interior and work with some electrical connections. If you're not confident you can do it - leave it to someone else. Follow this at your own risk (and don't hold me responsible if you mess up ). The package and what's inside My package was already opened by the dealer so maybe that's why I got it for 99EUR. Another dealer quoted 130EUR for the unit without installation costs. Below you can see the package itself, the FINIS number, as well as what it contains. STEP 1 - Disconnect the battery of your car. Note: Make sure you have your radio code ready. STEP 2 - Remove the radio cover and the radio itself STEP 3 - Connect the cables where they belong. It's also shown on the installation sheet. Frankly, they can only be connected one way, so there's little to go wrong. Once you've connected the cables, just slide in your radio back into the hole for now. Later you'll take it out and properly arrange all the cables, etc. so that it all fits nicely. I already had an AUX 3.5" stereo jack connected to my radio. If you ask the dealers most will tell that you can only have either one. That's not really true, because the splitter cable delivers the same connections as the radio has originally. So, at the moment I have both connections and both work independently. I didn't try both at the same time, but my guess is that the sound will simply overlap. STEP 4 - Figure where you want to have the USB connection and the USB box itself I have a 2005 Focus with a 2008 facelift center console (the one with the extendable armrest). I decided to place my USB cable into the armrest compartment. I decided to put my USB Box on the side of the glove compartment. It simply didn't fit under the radio. STEP 5 - Placing the USB Box To do this you need to remove the glove compartment first. This is fairly easy - just open it, unscrew the screws marked on the image and pull it out. Once you've removed the glove compartment you can easily reach into the hole where the radio sits from the passenger side. Feed the cable through the side and connect it with the USB Box on the side of the glove compartment. Now you have several options for mounting the USB Box so it doesn't make noises when you drive or put tension on the cables. I took the easy option and used a plastic cable tie to hold the USB box (number 2 on the image above) to the cables on the side (number 1 on the image). It's pretty sturdy and isn't going anywhere. Thanks to the cables it doesn't touch any metal/plastic parts, so it can't rattle either. Another option would be to use double-sided tape to mount the USB Box on the inside area of where number 3 is on the image. I didn't have any such tape at hand so I didn't do that. Here's my box secured: STEP 6 - Feed the USB cable to the center console compartment. That's probably the most fiddly job. You need to remove the side panel of the console (where the feet of the passenger are), remove the gearstick knob, unclick and lift up the handbrake sleeve+plastic, remove the top part of the console itself. Then you feed the cable under the console and into the compartment (the compartment has a hole on the bottom). The supplied USB cable is long enough. Some photos of the process: First, remove the handbrake sleeve+plastic. You'll need to unscrew these two screws at the top and then simply pull it up from the side of the screws. The handbrake must be engaged in its uppermost position (pull it all the way up). Then unclick the leather sleeve of the gearstick knob. You do this by gently lifting it together with the plastic surrounding. Once it's up you simply unscrew the knob from the shift stick. Then you'll need to pull out the 12V plug and disconnect its cable. Now you can proceed to pulling up the top part of the center console. You pull it up from the back where it ends in a small area. Once the back and the middle are unclicked you can pull it backward (toward the back seat) and lift it up. There's a couple of latches at the front which will unclick as you pull it backward. You need to end up with something like this: You can proceed to removing the side panel. That's one screw and three latches. Unscrew the screw and pull the panel outward and to the front of the car. It unclicks very easily. Click here to see the image Now you have plenty of room to feed the cable to the back side of the console. I also used a few cable ties along the way to make sure it won't get in the way of the gearstick or the airbag module which is mounted on the floor. As you run the cable down from the USB Box, give it some spare and tie it with a cable tie against other cables, so that it doesn't pull the USB Box down. This way it won't put any unnecessary tension on the plug of the USB Box itself. These two plugs seemed rather flimsy to me. I think they could have built the box more sturdy, but it should be fine as long as you don't pull/tension the cables too much. At the end you should have something like this: Click here to see the image And here comes the bonus - when the radio is ON the blue LED from the USB cable goes ON as well, whether you have something plugged in or not. This means that now you have a nice light in your center console compartment: Click here to see the image I quite like the way the box works. It's simple and quick. Could have used a few fancier features, but now at least I don't have to turn on and off my MP3 player all the time. It doesn't need to be re-charged as other portable players, etc. etc. My main complaint is about the fact that it doesn't really have a stop button. If you play MP3s off the box itself and then decide to switch to the radio (AM/FM button) the USB stick still indicates that a data transfer is being made. Not a big fuss but it's a waste - why read when nobody's listening... Perhaps this will be fixed with a software/hardware update later on or in future versions. My box is software version 1.0 and hardware version 1.0. Another thing they could have done is make it read the MP3 tags and display them on the radio screen (ie. name of song, artist, etc.). That doesn't bother me much, however, since I usually hit play, enjoy the music and drive. Also, I know all the songs I have in my library... But still, for that price they could have tried harder. Hope this has been helpful and it gives you a better idea of what this product offers and what it takes to install it yourself (and save a good 70EUR).
  2. Hi guys, Here's how my modified ELM327 USB looks like... I used a 2-way ON/ON switch from Conrad Electronics (order nr.: 700978, or direct link). The neat thing about this switch is that it's super small and if you happen to have a bluetooth version of the ELM327 (the el cheapo one, anyway) then you can fit it even nicer on the side. The casing for the bluetooth is identical to the USB version and they've used a plastic cap to cover the hole where the USB cable normally sits. That's a perfect fit for this rocker switch. :) Btw. if you own an Android based smartphone and have bluetooth on your mobile computer, just go for the Bluetooth version and try out the Torque app (on Android Market/Play Store). This way you can make even more out of the already cheap device. ;) Two photos:
  3. Nope, they don't (although this is yet to bother me :) ). Toward the end of the guide (1st page): "Another thing they could have done is make it read the MP3 tags and display them on the radio screen (ie. name of song, artist, etc.). That doesn't bother me much, however, since I usually hit play, enjoy the music and drive. Also, I know all the songs I have in my library... But still, for that price they could have tried harder."
  4. To Wrap Or Not To Wrap?

    Here's my 3d carbon wrapping of interior parts: I skipped the ashtray door and the row of buttons above it - thought it gives a better flow with the other hard plastics around. The steering surrounds are my favorite bit - I always found the silver shine too annoying while driving in sunny weather. Now it all blends nicely - I'm happy. Btw, I did use a heat gun for this. The vinyl I used is Oracal Wrapping Cast 960. The trick with using the heat gun is that you only heat the vinyl for a brief moment and always work with a relatively small area at a time. I think that's the easiest way to shape and mold the vinyl around the surface. In addition, if you don't heat the vinyl enough the glue won't hold properly. On my first attempt I was too lazy and used the wife's hairdryer (still a powerful one) and I wasn't too pleased with the result. I've made some mention and photos of removing the MK2.5 console in my Ford USB Music Box guide (in the guide section) - it's quite easy. At one point I was really keen on wrapping the vent surrounds but I couldn't get them out with little power so I gave up before I broke something. :) If anyone knows how to easily take these out without causing permanent damage, please, share. :)
  5. Hi guys, Regarding the ISS option on GEM config, pg 3 - if you start the program in Russian it has a better description (Возможность отключения датчиков объема с кнопки). In English words: "Allow disabling the motion sensor with a button". I believe this option has to do with an optionally fitted factory alarm with a motion sensor. This way you can arm the alarm but keep the motion sensor off (ie. if you leave your dog inside the vehicle). At least that's a feature on many well built aftermarket alarms. :)
  6. [b]This guide was originally written by me for the Dutch Focus Club forum but I figured it will be helpful to re-post it here as well. Enjoy![/b] What is the Ford USB Music Box? Read here: [url="http://media.ford.com/article_display.cfm?article_id=35755"]http://media.ford.co...rticle_id=35755[/url] A separate website for the product itself is here:http://www.ford-musicbox.eu/ From this site you can download also the user manual. Here's a direct link to that: [url="http://www.ford-musicbox.eu/documents/UserManual%20MBX01.pdf"]http://www.ford-musi...ual%20MBX01.pdf[/url] Price: I bought mine in the Netherlands from an official dealer for 99EUR (see more below). Installation costs were obviously not included. The price quoted for the USB Music Box + installation was ~170EUR. [b]DISCLAIMER You are in no way obligated to follow these instructions. Following this manual will require you to disassemble elements from your interior and work with some electrical connections. If you're not confident you can do it - leave it to someone else. Follow this at your own risk (and don't hold me responsible if you mess up ).[/b] The package and what's inside My package was already opened by the dealer so maybe that's why I got it for 99EUR. Another dealer quoted 130EUR for the unit without installation costs. Below you can see the package itself, the FINIS number, as well as what it contains. [img]http://petarneychev.com/fcnl/fmb_hwt_001.jpg[/img] [img]http://petarneychev.com/fcnl/fmb_hwt_002.jpg[/img] [b]STEP 1[/b] - Disconnect the battery of your car. Note: Make sure you have your radio code ready. [b]STEP 2[/b] - Remove the radio cover and the radio itself [img]http://petarneychev.com/fcnl/fmb_hwt_003.jpg[/img] [b]STEP 3[/b] - Connect the cables where they belong. It's also shown on the installation sheet. Frankly, they can only be connected one way, so there's little to go wrong. [img]http://petarneychev.com/fcnl/fmb_hwt_005.jpg[/img] Once you've connected the cables, just slide in your radio back into the hole for now. Later you'll take it out and properly arrange all the cables, etc. so that it all fits nicely. I already had an AUX 3.5" stereo jack connected to my radio. If you ask the dealers most will tell that you can only have either one. That's not really true, because the splitter cable delivers the same connections as the radio has originally. So, at the moment I have both connections and both work independently. I didn't try both at the same time, but my guess is that the sound will simply overlap. [b]STEP 4[/b] - Figure where you want to have the USB connection and the USB box itself I have a 2005 Focus with a 2008 facelift center console (the one with the extendable armrest). I decided to place my USB cable into the armrest compartment. I decided to put my USB Box on the side of the glove compartment. It simply didn't fit under the radio. [b]STEP 5[/b] - Placing the USB Box To do this you need to remove the glove compartment first. This is fairly easy - just open it, unscrew the screws marked on the image and pull it out. [img]http://petarneychev.com/fcnl/fmb_hwt_011.jpg[/img] Once you've removed the glove compartment you can easily reach into the hole where the radio sits from the passenger side. Feed the cable through the side and connect it with the USB Box on the side of the glove compartment. [img]http://petarneychev.com/fcnl/fmb_hwt_012.jpg[/img] Now you have several options for mounting the USB Box so it doesn't make noises when you drive or put tension on the cables. I took the easy option and used a plastic cable tie to hold the USB box (number 2 on the image above) to the cables on the side (number 1 on the image). It's pretty sturdy and isn't going anywhere. Thanks to the cables it doesn't touch any metal/plastic parts, so it can't rattle either. Another option would be to use double-sided tape to mount the USB Box on the inside area of where number 3 is on the image. I didn't have any such tape at hand so I didn't do that. Here's my box secured: [img]http://petarneychev.com/fcnl/fmb_hwt_013.jpg[/img] [b]STEP 6[/b] - Feed the USB cable to the center console compartment. That's probably the most fiddly job. You need to remove the side panel of the console (where the feet of the passenger are), remove the gearstick knob, unclick and lift up the handbrake sleeve+plastic, remove the top part of the console itself. Then you feed the cable under the console and into the compartment (the compartment has a hole on the bottom). The supplied USB cable is long enough. Some photos of the process: First, remove the handbrake sleeve+plastic. You'll need to unscrew these two screws at the top and then simply pull it up from the side of the screws. The handbrake must be engaged in its uppermost position (pull it all the way up). [img]http://petarneychev.com/fcnl/fmb_hwt_006.jpg[/img] Then unclick the leather sleeve of the gearstick knob. You do this by gently lifting it together with the plastic surrounding. Once it's up you simply unscrew the knob from the shift stick. [img]http://petarneychev.com/fcnl/fmb_hwt_007.jpg[/img] Then you'll need to pull out the 12V plug and disconnect its cable. Now you can proceed to pulling up the top part of the center console. You pull it up from the back where it ends in a small area. Once the back and the middle are unclicked you can pull it backward (toward the back seat) and lift it up. There's a couple of latches at the front which will unclick as you pull it backward. You need to end up with something like this: [img]http://petarneychev.com/fcnl/fmb_hwt_009.jpg[/img] You can proceed to removing the side panel. That's one screw and three latches. Unscrew the screw and pull the panel outward and to the front of the car. It unclicks very easily. [url="http://petarneychev.com/fcnl/fmb_hwt_010.jpg"]Click here to see the image[/url] Now you have plenty of room to feed the cable to the back side of the console. I also used a few cable ties along the way to make sure it won't get in the way of the gearstick or the airbag module which is mounted on the floor. As you run the cable down from the USB Box, give it some spare and tie it with a cable tie against other cables, so that it doesn't pull the USB Box down. This way it won't put any unnecessary tension on the plug of the USB Box itself. These two plugs seemed rather flimsy to me. I think they could have built the box more sturdy, but it should be fine as long as you don't pull/tension the cables too much. At the end you should have something like this: [url="http://petarneychev.com/fcnl/fmb_hwt_016.jpg"]Click here to see the image[/url] And here comes the bonus - when the radio is ON the blue LED from the USB cable goes ON as well, whether you have something plugged in or not. This means that now you have a nice light in your center console compartment: [url="http://petarneychev.com/fcnl/fmb_hwt_017.jpg"]Click here to see the image[/url] I quite like the way the box works. It's simple and quick. Could have used a few fancier features, but now at least I don't have to turn on and off my MP3 player all the time. It doesn't need to be re-charged as other portable players, etc. etc. My main complaint is about the fact that it doesn't really have a stop button. If you play MP3s off the box itself and then decide to switch to the radio (AM/FM button) the USB stick still indicates that a data transfer is being made. Not a big fuss but it's a waste - why read when nobody's listening... Perhaps this will be fixed with a software/hardware update later on or in future versions. My box is software version 1.0 and hardware version 1.0. Another thing they could have done is make it read the MP3 tags and display them on the radio screen (ie. name of song, artist, etc.). That doesn't bother me much, however, since I usually hit play, enjoy the music and drive. Also, I know all the songs I have in my library... But still, for that price they could have tried harder. Hope this has been helpful and it gives you a better idea of what this product offers and what it takes to install it yourself (and save a good 70EUR).
  7. Solution To Water In Plug Ports

    No, as mentioned in the first post - the Ti-VCT engine doesn't have the screw holes on the top, so you can't securely fasten the cover. They do look identical for the rest. However! You can get the revised jets from your Ford dealer. They do have much larger rubbers and that might as well do the trick for you. If just fiting the revised jets don't fix the problem, try using some silicone sealant as well. A set of new jets isn't too expensive.
  8. Yes, unfortunately few aftermarket kits are very good and certainly none is perfect. :) For me the biggest plus with the USB Music Box was that it's totally hidden. At first when I read through the manual I also was put off a bit by the limitations but to be honest - apart from scrolling from one song to another and adjusting the volume I haven't done anything else in the past month that I've had the unit in my car. Displaying the MP3 tags would have been very nice but what to do... A while back I almost bought the Parrot 9100 but I came across some negative reviews online and all the separate pieces of the kit were too much for me. Speaking of what they might be coming out with soon... http://www.ford-musicbox.eu/index.php?page=products&group=1 I see MBX02 and MBX03 - I can imagine higher prices for the features missing in the current MBX01. I certainly don't see myself upgrading to any of them unless they offer a deal for buying in my old one for the price I paid (which is very unlikely). :D Anyway, I hope that Dave gets his installed soon so he can also give some feedback on the everyday use. I'll shut up for now. :)
  9. Yes, the USB box comes up as "cable" or "cable assembly" on the receipt/Microcat. If you're listening to music off the USB Box and then switch to the FM radio the USB Box keeps playing the music. So when you switch back you won't be at where you left it off... Other than turning the radio OFF entirely there's no way to 'pause'. The MODE button on the steering column remote could easily have been utilized as 'play'/'pause' when pressed quickly, imho. It's useful to know that the USB box does not truly support hot-plug. If your radio is ON when you plug in a USB drive and switch to AUX it won't work (or at least not at all times). You need to turn the radio OFF and back ON to get it to work. Also, if you're listening to the AUX then change the source to RADIO and turn the engine off, the next time you start your car and switch to AUX it won't work either. Basically, you always need to have the radio on AUX when it's switched OFF to get the USB Box to properly recognize your USB drive next time you start it. Given the price they could have tried harder, but it still remains a good alternative to aftermarket radios or pricier versions of the Ford units which have native USB support. Either way, none of the aforementioned items has bothered me or my wife. Since I installed the kit in the beginning of the month the only FM radio we've listened to has been the traffic announcements. :D I also noticed that the quality of the sound is much greater than this through the AUX cable.
  10. Thanks Lenny! The USB socket linked above could be plugged into the female USB cable from the Music Box... Looks like a plug-and-play solution! Had I known of this USB socket earlier I would have done just that. For now I'll enjoy the extra LED inside my center console. :)
  11. Solution To Water In Plug Ports

    catch, thanks for the feedback! :) I've added a little update line at the beginning of the guide. I already had the revised washers on my car and the leakages were still pretty regular, judging by the amount of water that was in the plug ports. :( That's all happened before we actually bought the car. After we bought the car and the dealer attempted a repair (was under warranty) they simply put kit under the sprinkler which leaked on top of the engine. Even after this I saw drops of water on the engine and resorted to installing the Volvo cover. Interestingly enough, my other sprinkler hasn't leaked a drop till this day. Maybe whoever installed them first did a lousy job with one of them... I don't know. :) Now, however, with the cover and the insulation plate under the bonnet I'm pretty well protected. Anything little that will get through will be absorbed by the plate and eventually dry up. Currently, after more than six months of use there are still no water marks on the insulation plate... If an ugly stain appears in the future I'll simply re-do the washers again. For now, unfortunately, this is one of the least potential worries with my Focus and happily it's not resulting in any troubles.
  12. Jane, I don't think the USB Music Box is available anywhere online yet (it just came to the dealers on January 2nd). I'm pretty sure, however, that if you stop by an official Ford dealer they'll be able to order it for you. Delivery time shouldn't be more than a week (at least here in NL it's like that).
  13. Hi guys, I've posted a quick guide to resolving this problem in a way that is not very expensive but works perfectly for keeping water out of your spark plugs. :) It's in the guides section: Solution to water in plug ports
  14. Update / 13 jan 2012: This is meant to be adding an additional level of safety/security. It's highly recommended that you have the revised washers for the sprinklers first and fit them with a sealant of some sort. Hi everyone, This is a very simple and relatively cheap solution to the problem described in this thread: http://www.fordowner...-with-pictures/ This applies to 1.4l and 1.6l (101bhp) engines of Focus MKII Phase I and Phase II. The 1.6l Ti-VCT engine needs another solution as it doesn't have the mounting holes on top of the engine. What you need: - 1x Volvo engine cover (part number 30650468); for a Volvo V50 1.6l from 2005-2006. - 4x Mounting screws (part number 986019) The price for these two in the Netherlands (I live there) is ca.20EUR incl. taxes and most dealers can deliver the cover and the screws on the next day if it's not in stock already. I believe that Volvo also uses the same part numbers internationally (just as Ford does). If the part numbers aren't the same - just explain to the nearest Volvo dealer that you need a plastic engine cover for a Volvo V50 1.6l from 2005-2006 and they'll understand what you want. How to mount it: Before you mount anything - check and if necessary dry up the plugs compartment if there's water in it. Here's the final result: 1. Open the bonnet and locate the screw holes on the top of your engine. Two of them are covered by plastic holders/clips. One holds a cable that goes to the fuel injectors (on your left hand side from where you'll be standing) and the other one (on the opposite side) holds another cable. You can safely unscrew the clip that holds the injectors electrical cable - the engine cover will hold that in place once you mount it. As for the other cable - simply cut the plastic cable tie and fasten it with a new one against the metal loop that's right next to it (circled in red on the photo). Then unscrew the base to free that screw hole as well. 2. Fit the cap on top and arrange the spark plug cables and the injectors electrical cable under it so that everything falls nicely into place. 3. Apply some temperature resistant lubricant to the screws before you mount them, so that unscrewing them in the future won't be a problem. 4. Fasten the cover with the screws so that they are just tight and you're ready. Solution for the 1.6l Ti-VCT engine: Final result with the bonnet insulation plate mounted: Apart from getting the new version of the rubbers for the sprinklers you could also order the bonnet insulation cover (mounts on the inside of the bonnet and comes as standard on the diesel models). Insulation cover FINIS: 1495860 Clips (11 of them!): 1251866 This mounts in less than 2minutes on the inside of the bonnet with the plastic clips. This is not a perfect solution as with massive leaks the cover will get soaked but if you get the revised washers for the sprinklers, mount them with some silicone kit AND mount the insulation cover on the inside you should be quite safe. I initially only had the Volvo engine cover installed but I always felt the engine was a bit too noisy on the motorway, so I later on I also ordered the sound insulation plate for the bonnet (not cheap at ca.90EUR+tax at the dealer but worth it imho).
  15. This guide was originally written by me for the Dutch Focus Club forum but I figured it will be helpful to re-post it here as well. Enjoy! What is the Ford USB Music Box? Read here: http://media.ford.com/article_display.cfm?article_id=35755 A separate website for the product itself is here:http://www.ford-musicbox.eu/ From this site you can download also the user manual. Here's a direct link to that: http://www.ford-musicbox.eu/documents/UserManual%20MBX01.pdf Price: I bought mine in the Netherlands from an official dealer for 99EUR (see more below). Installation costs were obviously not included. The price quoted for the USB Music Box + installation was ~170EUR. DISCLAIMER You are in no way obligated to follow these instructions. Following this manual will require you to disassemble elements from your interior and work with some electrical connections. If you're not confident you can do it - leave it to someone else. Follow this at your own risk (and don't hold me responsible if you mess up ). The package and what's inside My package was already opened by the dealer so maybe that's why I got it for 99EUR. Another dealer quoted 130EUR for the unit without installation costs. Below you can see the package itself, the FINIS number, as well as what it contains. STEP 1 - Disconnect the battery of your car. Note: Make sure you have your radio code ready. STEP 2 - Remove the radio cover and the radio itself STEP 3 - Connect the cables where they belong. It's also shown on the installation sheet. Frankly, they can only be connected one way, so there's little to go wrong. Once you've connected the cables, just slide in your radio back into the hole for now. Later you'll take it out and properly arrange all the cables, etc. so that it all fits nicely. I already had an AUX 3.5" stereo jack connected to my radio. If you ask the dealers most will tell that you can only have either one. That's not really true, because the splitter cable delivers the same connections as the radio has originally. So, at the moment I have both connections and both work independently. I didn't try both at the same time, but my guess is that the sound will simply overlap. STEP 4 - Figure where you want to have the USB connection and the USB box itself I have a 2005 Focus with a 2008 facelift center console (the one with the extendable armrest). I decided to place my USB cable into the armrest compartment. I decided to put my USB Box on the side of the glove compartment. It simply didn't fit under the radio. STEP 5 - Placing the USB Box To do this you need to remove the glove compartment first. This is fairly easy - just open it, unscrew the screws marked on the image and pull it out. Once you've removed the glove compartment you can easily reach into the hole where the radio sits from the passenger side. Feed the cable through the side and connect it with the USB Box on the side of the glove compartment. Now you have several options for mounting the USB Box so it doesn't make noises when you drive or put tension on the cables. I took the easy option and used a plastic cable tie to hold the USB box (number 2 on the image above) to the cables on the side (number 1 on the image). It's pretty sturdy and isn't going anywhere. Thanks to the cables it doesn't touch any metal/plastic parts, so it can't rattle either. Another option would be to use double-sided tape to mount the USB Box on the inside area of where number 3 is on the image. I didn't have any such tape at hand so I didn't do that. Here's my box secured: STEP 6 - Feed the USB cable to the center console compartment. That's probably the most fiddly job. You need to remove the side panel of the console (where the feet of the passenger are), remove the gearstick knob, unclick and lift up the handbrake sleeve+plastic, remove the top part of the console itself. Then you feed the cable under the console and into the compartment (the compartment has a hole on the bottom). The supplied USB cable is long enough. Some photos of the process: First, remove the handbrake sleeve+plastic. You'll need to unscrew these two screws at the top and then simply pull it up from the side of the screws. The handbrake must be engaged in its uppermost position (pull it all the way up). Then unclick the leather sleeve of the gearstick knob. You do this by gently lifting it together with the plastic surrounding. Once it's up you simply unscrew the knob from the shift stick. Then you'll need to pull out the 12V plug and disconnect its cable. Now you can proceed to pulling up the top part of the center console. You pull it up from the back where it ends in a small area. Once the back and the middle are unclicked you can pull it backward (toward the back seat) and lift it up. There's a couple of latches at the front which will unclick as you pull it backward. You need to end up with something like this: You can proceed to removing the side panel. That's one screw and three latches. Unscrew the screw and pull the panel outward and to the front of the car. It unclicks very easily. Click here to see the image Now you have plenty of room to feed the cable to the back side of the console. I also used a few cable ties along the way to make sure it won't get in the way of the gearstick or the airbag module which is mounted on the floor. As you run the cable down from the USB Box, give it some spare and tie it with a cable tie against other cables, so that it doesn't pull the USB Box down. This way it won't put any unnecessary tension on the plug of the USB Box itself. These two plugs seemed rather flimsy to me. I think they could have built the box more sturdy, but it should be fine as long as you don't pull/tension the cables too much. At the end you should have something like this: Click here to see the image And here comes the bonus - when the radio is ON the blue LED from the USB cable goes ON as well, whether you have something plugged in or not. This means that now you have a nice light in your center console compartment: Click here to see the image I quite like the way the box works. It's simple and quick. Could have used a few fancier features, but now at least I don't have to turn on and off my MP3 player all the time. It doesn't need to be re-charged as other portable players, etc. etc. My main complaint is about the fact that it doesn't really have a stop button. If you play MP3s off the box itself and then decide to switch to the radio (AM/FM button) the USB stick still indicates that a data transfer is being made. Not a big fuss but it's a waste - why read when nobody's listening... Perhaps this will be fixed with a software/hardware update later on or in future versions. My box is software version 1.0 and hardware version 1.0. Another thing they could have done is make it read the MP3 tags and display them on the radio screen (ie. name of song, artist, etc.). That doesn't bother me much, however, since I usually hit play, enjoy the music and drive. Also, I know all the songs I have in my library... But still, for that price they could have tried harder. Hope this has been helpful and it gives you a better idea of what this product offers and what it takes to install it yourself (and save a good 70EUR).