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Budding Enthusiast
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About daveyboy123

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

Contact Methods

  • First Name dave

Profile Information

  • Gender* Male
  • Ford Model Focus 1.6 TDCI
  • Ford Year 2005
  • UK/Ireland Location Wiltshire
  • Annual Mileage 0 to 5000
  1. Breather Pipe Loose - 1.6 Tdci

    What's metal tie wire? How did you put it on to stop it slipping off? I'm not too sure about the oil and making a mess as mines been fine so far, not got any oil leakage from the breather pipe area. Why would that be if other people are having this issue?
  2. Breather Pipe Loose - 1.6 Tdci

    i did try a cable tie but it was still moving about, not sure how to get it to hold it in place.
  3. Breather Pipe Loose - 1.6 Tdci

    hi all, i believe this is quite a common annoyance, basically the breather pipe (one with the very brittle plastic clip) keeps coming away as the plastic clip was broken. i keep trying to tape it on but it keeps coming away. not sure what others have done about this, as the same issue will happen even if i bought another part as mechanics who service seem to end up breaking the clip at some point. also, if breather pipe does come away so is not attached, what problems if any does this cause - ive heard the engine area being a bit louder (almost like a rattle as you put foot down) but can it damage anything, or loe mpg. any help is greatly appreciated. thanks
  4. Glad to see we could help, def not what you want especially on these cold mornings. I was lucky nine eventually died at my house.
  5. Is it easy enough to get to, if it was incorrect what would be symptoms and when would they appear?
  6. Hopefully correct battery has been fitted to my car then. Mechanic who bought battery I'm sure would have found that info out if servicing cars all the time
  7. It was another pattern part, slightly more expensive by about £20, can't remember exact name but did sound like a German brand. Hopefully I'll have more luck with this one.
  8. My Speedo didn't go around etc, all that happened with mine was clicking relay, lights dimming a lot including interior lights when starting and it taking a bit longer to turn over than usual. I had this problem for just over a month or so until eventually battery just died. Not sure what battery it takes as mechanic sorted that for me.
  9. Right well day after battery was checked the car wouldn't start, battery was replaced and is now perfect again, no clicking relay anymore etc Thank you for helping me get to bottom of problem
  10. Ok, well part was replaced and seems much better. Idle seems normal now and isn't struggling anymore. So looks like it's sorted :) Thanks for the help.
  11. If it was a bad earth, would it not do it all the time? Once I've used car for 10 mins or so and I turn engine off. If I start it on straight away, the car will start fine, no clicking and no flashing lights when they are turned off. After a couple of hours the problems will start again. Will mechanic be able to tell straight away if it's battery, even if I've driven it that day?
  12. Just a quick update - not had it checked yet, hopefully that will be in the week. However I have noticed that when this clicking occurs the headlights flicker on and off - even though the lights aren't actually switched on? Still battery you think or something else. Even interior light will flicker if I have door open etc when starting car, is that normal though?
  13. Just one more thing, would the new sensor work straight away correctly. I read somewhere that sometime the ecu will take a bit of driving to correct everything and it to run smooth. If that's the case could the sensor I have be ok but just needs running in a bit or would you change it to be on safe side?
  14. Ok, thank you for your help. Think mechanic will test battery first to ensure it is in fact the battery at fault and if so I'll get it changed over
  15. Will do, drove car around todday without maf, car idled much better and no hesitation/random flat spots. Only problem original Ford parts are over 200 which is more than double the one put in. Think he wants to try another make first before going down the expensive route. Is it safe to run without maf for a while? Not getting smoke or anything, sounds basically like it should do. Engine management light is now on though. I'm worried that after changing maf it's not going to fix it, is there anything else that could cause it or the fact it's running better without it connected would that indicate sensor is def at fault?