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Tonis_T

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    26
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Tonis_T

  • Rank
    Member

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Tonis

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Focus 1,6 vct
  • Ford Year
    2006
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Other/NonUK
  • Annual Mileage
    5001 to 10,000

Previous Fields

  • Location
    Tallinn, Estonia

Recent Profile Visitors

998 profile views
  1. Do the wind deflectors "cure" the annoying problem of water flying from mirror to side window and making side window dirty when raining?
  2. I believe that diesels have often aux heater installed from factory. I haven't heard that you could order this for petrols. This is the one I'm talking about:
  3. Yeah, I did forget that they have ford part numbers shown there so some one is able to help here too. I have been helped by their sales department many times and they are really handy and helpful. Plus you do not have to wait when some one replys here but you get the help in real time. However they do not have all parts listed and and they have put up new listings that are matched via VIN code just for me.
  4. They have online help. Contact sales department and they will check the correct part via reg number or VIN. All you get from here is guesses.
  5. Google "tire speed rating" Then you'll see that W is rated up to 168 mph - 270 km/h and V is rated up to 149mph - 240 km/h. Now you have to decide, how fast is you'r focus? I just ordered H rated tire for my focus (130mph - 210 km/h).
  6. Hello, So I have the infamous ticking. Car has done 190 000 kilometers. Timing belt was changed around 155 000 kilometers. Now the problem was that I had one of the cam shaft gears changed during timing belt change. EML was on, loss of power and everything by the book. However they did change only one shaft gear and not both of them. So basically I only need to get only one cam shaft gear. However I would also be changing camshaft seals so both would come off. When everything is off anyhow, would it be wise to change both cam shaft gears or only the one that was not originally changed? I have understood that the newer gears do not give so much problems as the older ones. Timing belt kit that was used by ford dealer was with tensioner and water pump. That means that timing belt , tensioner and water pump has only done 35 000 km (changing again would be 160 000 km or 8 years which ever comes first) Cheap SOB as I am, would this timing belt kit be safe to reuse or is putting the same timing belt back a big no no (I know it is a big no no but it is pretty new)? Aux belts I would re use anyhow. EML is not on, car drives fine. So I am not in a hurry to decide things as of yet. However the ticking has gotten worse and I am predicting that I am not too far away from EML and power loss. I am pretty disappointed that they did not suggest changing both cam shaft gears when everything was opened up anyhow and now I am looking at pretty big bill no matter which way I tackle this. This time I would like to be sure that everything has been done correctly which is why I would do this job myself. I intend to keep this car for some time. Not sure if driving it to ground but few years anyhow (just did clutch and all rear bushings so no point selling it now) All input appreciated.
  7. This might be more complicated than just bigger= better. Read this before messing with brakes http://stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/abs-and-big-brake-kits
  8. Hi, I'm about to change my engine mounts. 2006 1,6-ti vct with 5 speed manual. Workshop-manuals.com says that the right hand top engine mount will be 80Nm nuts to the block and 90Nm bracket bolts to the bod. Engine roll restrictor is 80Nm for both bolts. However no info about bracket that mounts to the gearbox. For some reason they have left out the left hand top engine mount. I have been looking around internet and have to say that suggested torques are all over the place. Can you guys check if you have repair manual, what are the correct torques.
  9. I had my clucth changed and have also solid flywheel. They did unmount it and resurfaced it but the same one was used again.
  10. My understanding is that mk2,5 side mirrors are not straight swap to mk2. The mounting points have been changed during face lift
  11. Did you got the windows sorted?
  12. Access to floor wiring is not very major job. I have done some sound deadening and have stripped my car to bare floor pan. Surprisingly easy and quick job. If you do not do any mechanical work at all, then not recommended but since you have already done module fitment, then I'd say nothing too major. When it is all striped I do recommend sound deadening. Very big improvement of riding environment. However GEM fitment wise- hopefully some one more wise will chime in.
  13. Gem module has been swapped before(mk2,5 module to mk2 car). How much work it is I have no idea.
  14. My understanding is that mk2 and mk2,5 modules at the rear are different. Mk2 (green illumination) have can modules front and rear and mk2,5 have can modules front and Lin modules rear. They are not interchangeable. You need a donor car that is your version -pre facelift focus. You also need to change all window buttons, door wiring looms and are you sure that you have floor wiring compatible to electric windows? I have been thinking of doing this conversion myself also but there are still too many unknowns for me. Mainly if I need to do something with floor wiring and if my gem module supports 4x el windows. If it does do I need to add some kind of relays there or not. Not sure if so but maybe it is more easy to swap your gem module to facelifted mk2,5 focus so that it would support can front and lin rear instead of looking for another donor - not sure tho what kind of programming needed with this swap. More info here: http://ffclub.ru/topic/135368 On 2nd page you have all 'essence' : http://ffclub.ru/topic/135368/go_post/5318624/ use google translate
  15. In case anyone is interested. Railings are not straight swap. Mk 2,5 railings have 2 bolts on both ends to mount them to the roof. MK2 roof has 2 pre drilled holes of which only one hole is usable (rear one). So I had to drill 3 holes to each side to mount the railings. However, when you do that they will fit pretty nicely. The rear most nut for the railing is pita to install and tighten. All other bolts have hole underneath so you can use socket but for the rear most one is only doable with key spanner and very little room to turn the spanner. You also have to shorten the said bolt or it will contact the body. However as with everything, it is doable and result is ok.