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About GSM

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    Feet Under The Table

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  • Ford Model
    Focus Ghia 1.6 (100PS)
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
  • Annual Mileage
    5001 to 10,000
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    General Automotive
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  1. Hi guys, Having some trouble "programming" my keys to the car. I have a main flip key, and another non-flip key but it's still a full spare with all the buttons and functions. I've been doing the thing where you turn the ignition from 0 to II four times to try to pair it, but the procedure does not seem to be right. Here's what I EXPECT to happen: 1) Insert key #1 into ignition barrel 2) Turn key from 0 to II four times 3) Turn key back to 0, and hear a tone 4) Press a key on the fob 5) Hear a tone confirming that key is now paired 6) Repeat for key #2 Here's what's actually happening: 1) Insert key #1 into ignition barrel 2) Turn key from 0 to II four times 3) Turn key back to 0, THIS TIME THERE'S NO TONE! 4) Press button on fob 5) NOW, I HEAR A TONE! 6) Doesn't work, key is not paired to central locking. So, steps 1) and 2) are repeated 7) Turn back to 0, NOW I HEAR A TONE! 8) Press button on fob 9) Hear confirmation tone. Fob is now paired. 10) Now, I repeat for key #2, and it's the exactly same procedure again, but when I'm finished... key #1 is now no longer paired. Any idea what could be going wrong here? I've done this process before and it has worked as per the handbook, but now the procedure seems to be a bit whacky, and the car refuses to have two keys paired simultaneously - it's one or the other.
  2. Hmm, yeah. I was kind of hoping it wouldn't be that - everywhere I've looked online says it's a RIGHT pain in the !Removed!. Any chance you could take a picture of exactly where yours is, just so I can see where it's supposed to be (to work out whether it's broken/missing), and to help as a guide for how to fit it?
  3. Hi guys, got a 2006 mkII Focus, and recently have become concerned about the clutch pedal. It seems to me that when I engage the clutch and let it come up, there is about an extra inch/half inch of slack. i.e. I can put my foot behind the pedal and drag it up another inch/half inch. The clutch still seems to work pretty well, as the biting point is some way below this, but it is kind of annoying and I feel that I'm sometimes close to riding the clutch as a result. I'd like the pedal to come up all the way as far as it can go, by itself, without my having to drag it up by putting my foot behind the pedal. Can anybody suggest what might be the issue?
  4. Yep, test the fuses in your fusebox until you find one that goes off with the ignition, then simply piggy-back the camera onto that using piggyback fuses.The solution I went for in the end was to hook straight up to the battery but also buy a Blackvue Power Magic Pro - this device monitors the battery voltage and cuts the camera off if it falls below 11.9V, so you can keep it running for a good few hours when you leave the car without worrying that the battery will be dead the next morning. Can be expensive at some places but I got mine for £25 on eBay, so was happy to pay that.
  5. Yeah that's right. You can get small triangular connectors that take 3 inputs, so if you have one of those in your set you could use that instead. Otherwise, yes, cut the live to the reverse light, put one bit of the cut wire in one end, and put the other bit + the parking sensor live wire into the other.
  6. You don't need a fuse... they barely draw any power at all, nowhere near a significant amount compared to what the rear parking light draws anyway. So any fuse that comes for the rear parking light already will be sufficient (I don't think there is any...), no need to add extra fuses. The angle rings go between the bumper and the sensor on the outside, but I didn't use them on my Focus ... the Focus rear bumper is already pretty flat. Block connectors should be fine. Don't use Scotch Locks.
  7. My recommendation for in-car wiring is a crimping tool with connectors. No skill required and not messy or dangerous (as with soldering), not unreliable like scotch locks.
  8. Alright folks. I tried to use my spare key recently, and it just doesn't work to lock/unlock the car. If I unlock the car with my first key, then I can use the spare one to start the engine, etc, but it doesn't lock/unlock the doors, i.e. none of the buttons of the fob seem to be working. I thought it was the battery, but I replaced that today, and still nothing. I tried to reprogram it (turn the ignition through 4 cycles until you hear a beep, then press the unlock button on the fob), but it doesn't respond to that either. Any ideas? Is it just fried? If it is fried, where can I get a replacement and how do I program it without having to pay wheeler dealer prices?
  9. A 1997 Peugeot 106... Only had something like 50,000 miles and my dad got it for me as a gift, spending a cool £150 on it. No ABS, no power steering, no electric windows, no airbags, no tachometer (had an analogue clock in its place)! Got 3 years out of it before it flunked an MOT with severe rust and had to be put down. Got the Focus a year later, and man, what a difference. After having that heap of junk with NO gadgets (I like my gadgets), I spent a good year saving up so I could get the Ghia, with max gadgetry.
  10. The strangest part of this sentence is "working in Motherwell". Just doesn't seem right at all.
  11. Don't understand how half these monkeys get these jobs... Funny example: I phoned those ChipsAway mob a few months ago just for a quote - they come out and fix chips/scratches on yer car, etc, and it's a franchise so you deal directly with the guy who does the repairs when getting quotes etc, so you'd expect these types of guys to know a bit about cars. Anyway, I phoned up and the guy was asking questions about the car. Here's how the conversation went: Him: What's the make, model and year? Me: It's a 2006 Ford Focus. Him: Okay, is that the one with the long back or the one with the curved back? Me: What? Him:You know, I'm just trying to get an idea of what the car looks like. Me: It's a hatchback if that's what you mean. Him: Ah, right, yes, that's what I meant. Where is the damage on the car? Me: It's on the driver's side at the rear quarter where the wheel arch meets the back door. Him: Back door? Me: Yes, back door. Him: I thought you said it was a hatchback? Me: Yes, that's right, it is. Him: If it's a hatchback it can't have 4 doors (he said this in a sort of mocking tone). Me: Eh, actually, yes you can... the word "hatchback" relates to the style of the rear of the car, not how many doors it has. Him: Right okay. You sure it's not a saloon? Me: Look mate, the Ford Focus is probably the most common car on the road, and the hatchback is probably the most common type of Ford Focus on the road, and most of them have 4 doors. If you, as a guy who supposedly fixes cars all day everyday, don't know what one looks like, then I don't think I'll be needing a quote from you. Then I hung up. Beggars belief. P.S. my response when I read your first line about smashing your window whilst accidentally slamming the boot was similar to the response I have when I hear about somebody getting booted in the chuckies.
  12. Trace the wire and see if it heads to your reverse bulb, only way to be sure without ripping the wire open and testing it. As I said a few posts ago, I would actually recommend using crimp connectors and a crimping tool as opposed to soldering or scotch locks. Unless you're a soldering efficianado which you're probably not if you've only just bought yourself a soldering kit. Soldering can be tricky, especially having to do it in the boot of a car instead of on a nice working bench, and it takes a bit of practice and skill to get any good and making strong, robust, reliable connections that you won't have to re-do in 6 weeks. Crimp connectors are easy as pie, safer and more reliable than scotch locks, but requiring nowhere near the skill level of soldering for a good robust connection.
  13. Mine had 3/4 rubber wedges embedded around the circumference of each sensor - so providing the hole you drill is snug, they will keep them in place indefinitely. No need to glue them.
  14. Hmm, not sure how I feel about it... I like the chrome. Just looks like a lower trim level now that gets the plastic grill instead of the chrome. Also, your car's beginning to look like a black and white picture of itself! No blue badge and now no chrome lol. Just smoke your indicators and it'll look like a silent movie Focus!
  15. Don't think it's the case with all MK2s, but it is with the Ghia - a few people have mentioned a few minor design differences/component locations/wire colours for the Ghia compared to other models. With the sport you should be fine to follow the original guide. But I might be wrong. If you do find that the live is on the right and the earth is on the left like mine, then you could house it in the middle and split the wires (like I did), or you could just use the earth wire from the reverse light. Just means more cutting and crimping of wires, rather than having the convenience of a nice earth point.