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turbine

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    25
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About turbine

  • Rank
    Member

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    mark

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Jaguar x 2.0 diesel
  • Ford Year
    2008
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Staffordshire
  • Annual Mileage
    20,001 to 25,000
  1. First check your exhaust for leaks or damage..
  2. Looks to me like the crankcase vent hose to the air intake has split or come off. That would explain the white smoke too, as air would be entering the engine that the MAF sensor hasn't 'seen'. Lean running results - white smoke. For goodness' sake don't let them tell you its injectors or something expensive!! Its a few quid for the hose and a five minute task.
  3. I concur. When I bought the car there was a humming form the back and road noise from the front.. Replaced the horrid PirelliP600 when they wore out with 4 budget tyres and - silence is golden.
  4. Yeah, this weekend I changed my crank pulley, aux belt and tensioner and it has improved my chugging a lot. Not that there were any symptoms like drumming, clattering or flapping, simply that 100,000 miles seems as good a time as any to do it. Chugging still there but far less pronounced - perhaps the ECU needs time to 'settle' into the change, time will tell.
  5. The positive code here is the MAF sensor fault P0100. It's the only one that has a singular cause, a failed MAF signal. Firstly, check the wiring. and check the connector for broken wires and bent pins. (I have also read reports of wiring being displaced and chaffed by the auxiliary belt (LHS as you look at the engine)) Then do a google and find how to remove and clean the MAF sensor. More often than not its just dirty. If that fails, replace it. If it is the MAF alone that's faulty, the glowplug light will disappear and the secondary codes will clear themselves when the ECU completes its monitoring cycle for those events. Good luck
  6. The link provided is confusing. Be careful. If you have a TDCI or TDDI the camshaft sensor is NOT also known as the crankshaft sensor. The TDCI has both camshaft and crankshaft sensors that work together so that the ECU can determine how fast the engine is turning and the acceleration/decelleration of each piston stroke in order to optimise the fuelling (along with a host of other sensors). If your camshaft sensor is on the way out you will certainly have smooth running and/or starting problems. There is a mod on the mondeo to fit an improved sensor (grey casing), and another to install a harness that improves the cam sensor voltage from 5v to 12v to strengthen the signal to the ECU.
  7. Thats a strange comment, "everything is alright except low fuel pressure at the pump." That's not an insignificant problem when youre in the outside lane of the M6 and you suddenly get limp mode! Believe me, I know only too well from the stains in my shorts. With no sensors on the low pressure side of the fuel system, it could be anything from fuel tank to injectors. :o( Did you get the exact codes from Ford ? P0251 will certainly show up. What did Ford recommend?
  8. Not found any. Even with MAF disconnected (forced open loop control) it still chugs. If you fix yours please post the result.
  9. Took off the inlet manifold, cleaned it (again) inspected for cracks and renewed the seals. With manifold REMOVED the car still chugs. (Got the P0100 code (MAF) as expected.) That is not to say there ISNT an intake leak but I sincerel doubt it would cause this chugging. Fuel pressure bounces at all speeds its just not so noticeable at high revs or under acceleration (if you discount the occasional P0251 limp mode !!) Sprayed special engine decarb into the ports but it made no difference so it aint carbon on the valves or crowns upsetting the fuelling. Havent given up just yet...
  10. Wiring loom nowhere near the belt or pulleys. Not an issue. Didn't have symptoms of boost hose split but took it off and inspected anyway. Its fine. Put some clear plastic reinforced hose 8mm ID between filter and pump inlet. Quite easy to suck fuel through the filter into the hose so no blockages. On running absolutely no air bubbles at all. LP system is fine. Running out of ideas.
  11. In desperation I replaced the EGR valve this weekend and while I was at it meticulously checked the hose that fails for damage. Waiting to see if it helps when the ECU adapts to the new set-up. On Jaguarforum.co.,uk theres this kid that took his chugger to a Diesel specialist who (after much diagnostics) found wiring the loom for the injection rail regulator (sensor) was damaged, as it had been rubbing against the alternator belt. This was causing the regulator to fluctuate eractically. He repaired the wiring loom and the car now runs smooth again. I'll be back...
  12. I dont understand why you were told it cant be the oil cooler thermostat as this is a well known issue on the Jaguar forum. I had the overcooling fault when I bought my car and having changed the main thermostat to no avail i then replaced the oil cooler thermostat (a far simpler job, by the way) and it has been fine since.
  13. There is no 'programming' for the TDCI pump, it just goes round and round pumping, no timing or anything. You should disconnect the battery when replacing, and this will reset the ECU. Then as you drive the ECU will learn from scratch the new 'balance' of the systems and adjust to it.
  14. Sweet, Sam. Always great when someone finds a fix. Infinitely better when they post back with the fix as well :) Fine job.
  15. " i have no idea on vaccum details, how would i obtain these?" Dave, I was asking on your behalf re LP fuel system suction values just in case some guru knew, so you could compare, but obviously not hence my alternative test. I replaced the cam sensor on my Jag a few months ago, and due the information you include above I measured the voltage to be 5v not 12v therefore I know my car is pre-mod. Jaguar diagnostics did not find a problem with the sensor signal, and I am not having the slightest starting problems, but it doesnt rule it out. The mod is on a list of 'desperation' items I am going to work through before I chop it in. DIY might be as easy as disconnecting the 5v feed at the sensor plug and running a 12v feed to the sensor from an ignition 'live' via a 200mA inline fuse but without all the details of the pukka mod I'm not happy to try it. Has anyone reading this had the mod done? Did it work and what did it cost? Does anyone have any design/details?