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fredflintstone

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    15
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About fredflintstone

  • Rank
    Member

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Chris

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    focus
  • Ford Year
    2003
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Nottinghamshire
  • Annual Mileage
    0 to 5000
  1. Hi Liam I m surprised disconnecting the IAC doesnt put the MIL light on, it should..yes you could be right about ecu but no easy way to check without proper tools and wiring diagrams tbh. As for the TPS yes this could also be at fault, I believe you can reset them on fords but dont hold me to it...Turn the ignition lights on and press the throttle down to the board slowly and slowly back up...do this about 5-6 times and start the car see if that makes a difference...But like I say ford isnt my speciality so it my not work Have you also checked ALL hoses from/to TPS and IAC..it could be a simple as one of those split. Try the reset on the TPS and let us know if it works or not. You are bang on with garages...what we call in the trade "replace to repair"...but thats the difference between a fitter repairing the car or a technician diagnosing it correctly.. And disconnecting the battery and rubbing the leads together is something I have never come across in 25 years in the trade..and it certainly wont set your airbags off.
  2. If we are going way from Ford..tut tut to me, then by far the best diesel engine out their is the VW/Audi V10 with several Le-man wins behind their belts and in the Toureg they pull like a shire horse..trouble is at £800per injector if you have to replace 10 then you aint going to get much change out of a new small hatchbck price. As for 4 cylinder diesels then its a hard choice,with any diesel engine look after it and it will look after you, all these manufacturers putting extended times and 20k between servicing isnt great especially for a diesel..change the oil & filter every 3-5k then you will certainly out live any petrol engine out there. With petrol engines staying away from ford then Honda must be very near the top with Mazda's rotory/wankel engine coming dead bottom.
  3. Hi Andrew My first question is Why do you want a dump valve? With any turbo car oil cooling is an issue and trying to squeeze so much engine/turbo into such small holes with the temperatures turbos can run at is always going to be an issue, on a really hard drive I have know turbos glow white hot...so oil is not at its best viscocity....The best thing I could recommend with any turbo powered car is whenever you drive the car when you end your journey leave the car running on tickover for approx 2minutes for it to go to a decent temp and not cool too quickly, you will get a longerlife span from both engine and turbo..by all means get a larger oil cooler if you are not happy..but decent ones dont come cheap Nissens do one for yours at around £300...and dont be fooled by cheap immitations.
  4. Hi Liam Firstly DO NOT start shorting the battery...apart from being dangerous you could do more damage to the vehicle...Air bags deploying...No cannot see that happening, air bag systems are very clever/complex and a short circuit should not do anything like that. When you disconnected the wire from the IAC valve did the engine management light illuminate??? You said it does it when it gets warm...errmmmm tricky one becuase if no MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light) is coming on then you can buy software but I would put money on No TC's(Trouble Codes) will be logged. Going back to you saying when its warm...then I would start looking more down the line of temp control to ecu, ie Coolant Temp Sensor....If the coolant temp sensor is faulty then as the car warms up the resistance in the coolant temp sensor changes telling the ecu to change fuelling, as you can imagine if those resistances go too high/low the car will think the engine is cold so it will feed it more fuel..thus revs increase If clutch switch was at fault it would do it from cold not just warm. Another reason why I say temp sensors is if the ECU is being told the engine is cold then no MIL will illuminate as it doesnt see a fault it just thinks the engine is the temperature its being told. To do a simple check on CTS you need a multimeter? If you have one let us know and I will talk you through the testing and what to look for. It is a simple test and illiminate/diagnose it instantly.
  5. Suspension top mounts might have wear. And the clunking on cornering could be down to cv joints knocking a little
  6. couldnt of said it better myself :o)
  7. It doesnt need to be kept cold it is allegedly drawing in cold air...which is more dense than hot air...basically meaning more air/fuel mixture into combustion chamber bigger explosion more power. If you have been out on those cold damp moist mornings you may notice the car runs alot better/smoother/responsive...especially if you have a turbo...becuase the air is more dense...period. I say allegedly as you have sort of hit the nail on the head...the cold air kits sit in the engine compartment...nice hot day/engine hot, bonnet down the temp is going to be quite hot under there...if you look at the original airbox the main induction pipe sits in the inner wing so the original airbox is drawing colder/more dense air than these kits. I said you hit the nail on the head Airflow Air kits dont have the same ring, the airflow is aided due to the pipes used have no sharp edges which can cause the induction air to swirl....which in turn can create poor induction. These kits also play on the humans mind...the induction noise they create makes people think the car is more powerful...when 9 times out of 10 you may lose power. To get the sort of power increase these kits claim then you would need to spend £00's and not just worry about induction.
  8. Hi What mileage is the car on? If the turbo was due to collapse then this may be due to age/mileage if there is proof of oil starvation and blockages in the pipes then i can see why they are trying to justify the repair if not they cant really tell you that you "need" extra parts. I can fully understand washers but banjo's and oil pick up errrrmmm dodgey Sorry if im teaching you how to suck eggs but here is a link to the same sort of banjo's and bolts/washers they want to change http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Garrett-T3-Turbo-Banjo-water-pipe-Cosworth-RS-M18-x1-5-/320771466746?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4aaf7825fa and here is a similar oil pick up/feed http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-FIESTA-MK6-MK7-1-6-TDCI-TURBO-OIL-FEED-AND-RETURN-PIPES-/110786343440?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19cb617210 Like mentioned copper washers....the weakest link yes and these cost pence and should be changed as par the course anyway. Looking at the two images I have shown can you see why they would need changing? I think the best thing to do is get a full explanation "Why they need changing/Have they failed?" Personally I would tell them to do a running jump
  9. Hi With cars it is a little different than a kettle from curry's and I quote "These are your statutory consumer rights. If any of them are breached you are within your rights to go back to the seller, who will then be legally required to remedy the situation in a number of different ways, depending on your situation and the nature of the complaint. The law requires you to act reasonably too, so if the problem is minor and can be repaired easily, within reasonable time, at no additional cost to you and without causing any significant inconvenience, then the dealer can insist on a repair as a first option. But remember that this will not stop you from taking it back if the repair is unsatisfactory or there is something else wrong with the car. If the car cannot be repaired, if the repair is unsatisfactory, or takes an unreasonable length of time, your next option would be to have it replaced. If this is undesirable or impossible, then you can request a refund, although if some time has passed, you should be aware that any the refund given may well take account of any use you have had of the car since you took possession of it." That is why I say if the car has been returned on 3 occasions with the same fault then you have acted with reason...they wont have a leg to stand on.
  10. Hi Couple of questions How much extra is it going to cost Why did the turbo fail...was it starved of oil? They really need to justify why those parts need changing...can they prove they are at fault and thats why the turbo failed...or the said parts are faulty....you really need answers not just a "NEED"
  11. Hi I would also kick up a fuss on this one....If you have had to return the vehicle on 3 occasions for the same fault then they have no option but to buy the vehicle back from you...Manufacturers/Dealers will try every trick in the book to prevent a buy back...they hate them with a passion. They will state all sorts of rubbish in their T&C's...stand strong and point out that at the bottom of any T&C's they create it will state...and it has to legally "This does not effect your statutory rights"...your statutory rights as a consumer is they have to either "Repair" "Replace" or "Refund"...and the choice is yours not theirs...that is why it is best to make sure the car has been back to be repaired three times and they have failed to do so...in a court of law with you returning the car 3 times is showing that you have been patient and given opportunity with said Manufacturer/Dealer to get matter resolved.
  12. Hi The old Charactaristic of the car cookie....rubbish If it is a charactaristic of the car then ask them to show you the noise on another Fiesta 1.4tdci of the same year and see the excuses roll...they use this excuse when they cant find the fault. Again without hearing the noise it is virtually impossible to say what it might be. I am not 100% how Ford Customer Service work but I would give them a ring and set up a case so its all down on file at head office...then give the garage another chance at finding fault..they should have to liase with said case and report back, if they cant find fault take to next nearest Ford Garage for a second opinion....If the noise is very noticeable then I can put money on its not a "Charactaristic" If you keep putting pressure on Ford should request the car and get the technical guys at H/O to get involved...dont let it rest till your happy and the noise has gone. Sorry couldnt be much more help
  13. Hi Noises are difficult to diagnose over the tinternet....but if the car has just had oil checks and never had the oil and filter changed over 4-5years then its not looking good. When the car is running and you increase the revs and hold it at about 3000rpm does the noise get any worse. My other concern is when pressing the clutch the noise decreases...excess end float on the crankshaft is possible...if it is and you take it to a ford garage you are going to need a fat wallet as the engine will need a COMPLETE strip. In fact they may recommend a recon engine Putting oil in to cure will never work when the damage has been done. I always recommend to change the Oil & Filter every 6000miles on a petrol 4000 on a diesel...you will be amazed how long your engine will last. But like mentioned without hearing the noise then its very difficult to say.
  14. Hi Liam just try these three things:- 1.Has your car got a clutch pedal switch...if so this could cause fault. 2.If you have had a new IAC Valve disconnect and try starting car this will make ecu pick up fault...reconnect IAC and start, ecu should clear fault 3.Disconnect battery for a period of time 40minutes ish Let us know how you go
  15. Hi Fistly I would talk to the trading standards again...i would also defo look at smalls claim court...they will see it in your favour no questions asked...small claims dont like hooky garages. Like someone else mentioned whenever a car is overheating you must always start at the easy things ie Pressure cap...I teach Audi/VW apprentices and paramount in my job to create a decent technician is to get them to start simple....creates cracking customer satisfaction and right first time fixes i also seen nobody mentioned the old ford cookie of an "airlock"...especially when the head has just been change...normally garages will fit a head gasket and top up water fit cap and leave it....when you should keep the rad cap off till the stat opens and the fan cuts in...you will normally see the water drop as its getting rid of the air in the system, top up with coolant and airlock gone....garages play sneaky moves changing a part to make out something was at fault..when it wasnt. This advice is for anyone taking a car to a garage and I will use this as thread as a cracking example...if they ring you to tell you that the head gasket needs changing then tell them to stop work as you want to visit the garage for them to show you where the headgasket has gone...and if they say the head needs skimming ask for a full explanation why...the head should be warped for it to need skimming a straight edge would confirm this. put it across the head surface any gaps it needs a skim....alot of garages use this technique to make more money....then I suppose you got stitched with stretch bolts for the cylinder head...these can be used once more after being removed so if your mileage is on 50k and the head has never been off before then the head bolts can be used one more time with no worries. Like mentioned trading standards..Small claims....and if my memory serves me correct if they do a repair that doesnt fix the problem then they should refit the old parts if this is not possible ie head skim/gasket all you need to pay for is the price of the skim and the gasket not the labour...their mis diagnosis is at fault not you....Mr/Mrs Layman Hope this helps