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will689

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    19
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About will689

  • Rank
    Member

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Stephen

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Capri 2000 GT XLR (V4)
  • Ford Year
    1971
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Staffordshire
  • Annual Mileage
    0 to 5000
  • Interests
    Classic Cars
    Car Restoration
  1. Final update. Couldn't find the right size on the net, but I'm sure they are out there somewhere. In the meantime, I took the old ones to my local exhaust garage (Harvey Tyres & Exhausts in Longton) and after a quick rummage in their odds and sods bin found two the right size !!! They threw in some replacement bolts and bronze nuts all for £10
  2. Found another book which covers only the 2000 and 3000 GT and has a picture of the gasket
  3. Brilliant!!! Thanks, that's exactly what I'm after. It's funny cos I have a copy of the official Capri parts list from 1969 and it only shows a "Spacer (from exhaust manifold to muffler inlet pipe)" for the 1300/1600 GT, not for the 2000 GT.
  4. Ok thanks. I have spoken to a local exhaust fitters and they have said I can have a rummage in their spares box so will see if I am lucky! The search continues
  5. Thanks for replying. Here's a picture of them, hope they look familiar :-)
  6. Hi all, It's been a while but after many years I am finally starting the complete restoration of my 1971 Mk 1 Ford Capri 2000 GT XLR. Basically just stripping the car at present to see how bad the rust is and making the car light enough to go onto a chassis tilt which we are using. However, the reason for my post is that after removing the exhaust from the car (leaving the exhaust manifold attached to the egine for now) I noticed that the exhaust joints (large washers which get sandwiched between the end of the exhaust manifold and the next piece of the exhaust) are badly corroded and almost dintegrated when we took the exhaust off. I have Goolged til my fingers are bleeding and cannot find them on the net. Wondered if anyone on the forum has had cause to replace them and could suggest where to get them from? Thanks
  7. Hi Upnorth. They didn't mention any tests on the cylinders, they concentrated on the turbo, then actuator and EGR valve. I think the lack of oil certainly won't have helped but the cars performance is as it was when I bought the car 18 months ago. Possible the previous owner ran the car with little or no oil in it. Have trawled the forums again and come up with a few things to check/do: Check Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor and clean if appears dirty? Check Electronic Accelerator Control (EAC). Some people suggest getting Ford to check it and recode if necessary as they sometimes lose the settings? Check Pedal Sensor, clean plug or replace pedal? And now check compression of cylinders! Any idea how much new piston rings are? I'm going on hols soon so will have to put any further work on hold for a few weeks and carry on upon my return. But I am determined to solve it! All suggestions / ideas are most welcome.
  8. Well, decat complete. Verdict? No difference whatsoever! So £285 poorer and turbo working, actuator working, EGR valve clean, cat removed and still 0-60 of around 40 seconds. Gutted.
  9. Well, the next installment goes like this.... Rang round a few more exhaust specialists to get quotes for a new Cat and remembered a place I used to get exhausts from when I lived at home with my parents many moons ago. Rang them up and had a nice long chat, they listened intently and concurred with the step by step diagnosis the garage had already done. They too agree that the next logical thing to change would be the Cat, and explained that as the actuator and EGR valve were both not performing the car was more than likely failing to properly burn the diesel and so the amount of crap hitting the Cat has probably blocked/knackered it. And then comes the bit that I found interesting, they then said "forget about replacing the Cat, it's expensive and does bugger all on a diesel anyway other than removing a bit of soot, we can decat it for £50". So with the tantalising prospect of resolving the lack of power, not having to fork out £200+ for a Cat and possibly getting a few extra bhp into the bargain I booked the car in for Sat morning. Saturday morning came, took the car in, and after 5 mins exhaust man says there is a problem. Someone (I suspect the garage earlier this week) has managed to snap off one of the bolts on the exhaust manifold so they need to drill it out before they can decat the exhaust and this means possibly removing the turbo). Plus the shape of the exhaust and cat is not straight forward so they recommend taking the cat off, gutting the insides, welding it back together and refitting (this also means that if the legislation changes or pc plod has a look it will still pass a visual inspection). So, rebooked in for Tuesday and the saga continues. PS. Exhaust man also pointed out that the lid to the air filter box doesn't fit properly, had a good look and it looks like in the past someone has filed bits off it so maybe someone tried a few mods before without much success. Very strange. Am keeping an eye out for a new lid from scrap yard etc... Not sure if this would affect the cars performance in any way?
  10. Good news :-) Garage have managed to clean the EGR valve and avoid the need to get a new one (quoted £170 for a new one). Fault code for the EGR now gone. Slight improvement in performance. Bad news :-( New fault code has appeared pointing to the Cat. Car now does 0-60 in 28 seconds, so better but clearly something is still amiss. So, £165 later, garage recommends changing the Cat, quoting another £269. However my local exhaust place can do it for £210. So now I'm pretty much where I started but more determined than ever to get it sorted. Can't quite believe that there are three faults all causing a lack of power, unless each one left undiagnosed has caused another fault like a domino effect? My quest continues.....
  11. Cheers pragmatix B1g dav3 I like your thinking but I'd like to get the car running normally first, then contemplating a remap to get a few more bhp
  12. Good News :-) So the garage have taken Turbo off and confirmed that the Actuator was completely seized. Even better they were able to free it up and get it working so happily have avoided having to get a new turbo (Ford said they don't sell the actuator separately and wanted £500+). Bad News :-( Cars performance is better but still not great and garage now getting fault code pointing to the Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve so they are going to take it off and see if they can clean it.
  13. Well, the garage have run a few tests and have diagnosed the following: Oil leak is not an issue and commonly seen. The turbo is engaging and producing pressure, however they believe the actuator is seized and therefore the engine is not getting the benefit of the turbo. Possibly a secondary issue of a blocked or collapsed Catalytic converter. Quoted me £150-£180 to take the turbo/actuator off, strip them and attempt to free the actuator rod. As long as the actuator rod is not bent (says it is rare), thinks that should resolve the turbo problem. Whilst the turbo is off they wil have a closer look at the Cat. They are hopeful that I won't need a new actuator but if I do it might mean a new turbo as some models aren't sold separately. So fingers crossed!!!
  14. Thanks guys. Been driving it for 18 months so far so pretty sure I've done any damage already :-) However, spoke to a local garage who have said its more likely to be faulty actuator and for £20 they will do some tests and diagnose the problem. Will see what their verdict is and report back.
  15. Hi, I have double checked and exhaust fumes are clear, no white smoke at all. There is definitely very small amount of oil coming from top of turbo so presume the seal has gone. Engine seems to run smooth, just lacks power during acceleration but can still reach motorway speeds given enough road. Simplest thing would be to replace the turbo (which i am looking into) but my concern is that turbo was knackered by something else? Really dumb question, but should there be oil in the turbo at all? Or is the fact that there is oil in the turbo evidence that there is a leak elsewhere in the engine? My new years resolution is to learn more about how my car works!!!!!!