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Marcr1

True Ford Enthusiast
  • Content count

    1,062
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Marcr1

  • Rank
    Ford Enthusiast
  • Birthday 11/01/1989

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Marc

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    S1600
  • Ford Year
    2012
  • UK/Ireland Location
    ---------WALES-----------
  • Annual Mileage
    5001 to 10,000
  • Interests
    General Automotive
    Motorsport & Racing
    Car Modification
    Travel
    Computers & Electronics

Recent Profile Visitors

23,065 profile views
  1. Spacers aren't dangerous, hub centric basically means it uses a plate that sits on the hub, then you get extended wheel bolts to hold the wheel in place. The other type of spacers bolt to the hub, then you bolt your tyre to the hub. So there's two lots of fixings, which are sometimes weak and can cause problems, I'll try and find you a link to some. It's all preference how far you go out and depends on how low your car is before they start to rub
  2. You're bang on mate, you want hub-centric spacers though, they're a lot safer.
  3. These are the types of things you want: http://www.jjcraceandrally.com/race/wheel-spacers/hub-buddies-ford-20mm-competition-wheel-spacer-kit-4x108 Info: https://www.performancealloys.com/wheel-spacers-shims.aspx
  4. You basically want to make sure that you buy hubcentric wheel spacers. Hubcentric are a plate inbetween the axle and alloy, for which you'll need extended wheel bolts. You can get wheel spacers that bolt into the axle, then you attach the wheel to the spacer, these are no where near as safe as a hubcentric type
  5. The 55w are brighter, I have the same kit you've linked to (55w) and they're great
  6. Loved the car to bits to be fair, 17 year old me thought it'd be a good idea to put a mahoosive exhaust on it as well . It was ridiculously loud. It's life didn't end well though :(
  7. This was my first car the Fiesta Style Summer :p mine had a grey dashboard though
  8. Now that is a thread revival!
  9. As above really, what kits are you using? I have a HIDs 4U kit @ 6000k and they're a really nice bright white with a blue hue. When you start going into the realms of 8000k you can kiss goodbye to vision in the rain and they look purple
  10. When fitting HIDs you tend to want the bar to be at the bottom of the headlight, it stops the nasty shadows that you can sometimes get
  11. The Heko's don't tend to scratch the window as the clips separate the window from the deflector, They're both as good as eachother at the end of the day though. Climairs are a little pricier if I remember rightly as well
  12. http://www.funkmotorsport.com/#!lamin-x/c1sgh You buy it in rolls, then cut the shape out. Or they do kits for the whole car which are pre shaped. It's an American brand but this website is UK based and sell them.
  13. Use Lamin X, It's like a translucent vinyl wrap, plus it doesn't damage the lights like fly eye kits can. I've done it on my A3 with very good results, they come in all colours as well like blue, red, yellow, different darknesses of black: 50/50: After:
  14. £25 years old, £320 with 3 years ncb on an S1600 '12 reg with Elephant. Although I have since sold the S1600 and bought an Audi A3 and done a few mods which works out at £380 and my girlfriend is now on the policy Old: New:
  15. Chipex works on all colour cars, Your colour code will be on the inside of the door