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True Ford Enthusiast
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JW1982 last won the day on April 22

JW1982 had the most liked content!


About JW1982

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    Ford Enthusiast

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  • Ford Model
    Focus MK3 Champions Edition
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  • UK/Ireland Location
  • Annual Mileage
    0 to 5000
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    General Automotive
    Car Modification

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    The Netherlands

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  1. Ford supplies and installs the X-vision parking sensors as an approved accessoire. However these are aftermarket parking sensors and just like any other aftermarket parking sensors the X-vision system is a standalone system which does not integrate into the existing vehicle electronics. It is completely normal that there is no visual information is shown on the FCDIM (display of the car). X-vision used to have an additional CANbus module to display the parking sensor information onto the FCDIM. This optional module acts as a gateway between the X-vision parking sensor system and the FCDIM. However this module is no longer listed on the X-vision website.
  2. The test menu of the instrument cluster also shows a calculated temperature.
  3. When changing the thermostat it is recommended to also change the coolant. On the 1.0 ECOboost the coolant can form crystals as a result of the higher coolant temperature. These crystals can attach to the internal cooling system parts and cause problems on the long term. When changing the thermostat the coolant system needs to be partly drained anyway so it is little effort to change the coolant completely. On this type of engine it is highly recommended to vacuum fill the coolant system. This way there will be absolutely no air in the coolant system.
  4. A decent diagnostic system/software should indeed be able to display the realtime temperature.
  5. Be aware that the temperature shown on the temperature gauge is a calculated value. This is not a realtime value. The temperature shown on the temperature gauge is calculated by the PCM. The PCM uses data of several sensors to calculate the temperature. Every single one of these sensors can affect the temperature that is shown on the gauge. I have seen before that a defective sensor that is not directly related to the engine temperature caused incorrect temperature gauge readings.
  6. This is the correct new type of degas hose. This type of hose was not yet available in 2013 so for some reason it has already been replaced before you bought the car.
  7. Based on the specifications listed by the seller this interface should be fine.
  8. Currently Forscan is the most advanced free diagnostic software for most Ford models. This problem is capable to perform diagnostics and has the ability to configure the different modules of the car. ELMconfig was specifically designed for the Focus MK2/MK2.5 and the C-max/Kuga. At a later time the developer of this program also added support for the Mondeo MK4 and S-max/Galaxy. However the ELMconfig is basically designed for configuration of the different modules and not for diagnostics. FTDI is the brand of the chipset that is used to convert USB to serial. A few Years ago FTDI was the only chipset that supported a Baudrate of 500.000 Kbps. Other chipsets like the Silicon Labs or Profilic chipsets did only support lower Baudrates. Back in the days the FTDI chipset was the best by far. Currently the other brands do also support 500.000 Kbps so the brand of the chipset became less important. However when buying an ELM327 interface it is very important to buy an interface that supports a baudrate of 500.000 Kbps.
  9. Personally I would go for a decent quality USB ELM327 with high quality chipset. the USB version is by far the most dependeable version and has higher speed capabilities than the Bluetooth or WiFi versions. The problem these days is that about 90% of all interfaces advertised as being ELM327 are actually clones that are not compatible to the original specifications. A few years ago practically all ELM327 clones did fully comply to the original ELM327 specifications. in order to produce cheaper interfaces many Chinese clone manufacturers developed cheaper alternative components. 90% percent of the clone produced today do have components that are no longer fully compatible with the original ELM327 specifications. This is generally no problem for generic OBD software but more advanced manufacturer specific software like for example the ELMconfig, Forscan or FoCCCus software have different requirements. The interface from your link seems OK to me (at least based on the sellers information). I have a high quality USB ELM327 interface with FTDI chipset that I bought over 6 Years ago. This interface support a maximum baudrate of 500.000 Kbps and is very dependeable. I use it for example for updating the software of instrument clusters. Even applying large software updates that take about 12 hours to complete can be performed without any problems. The downside is that many android devices do not support a USB ELM327 interface. Because of this I also have a Bluetooth version.
  10. Pin 1 and Pin 2 of the Rosenberger HSD connector are used for the video signal from the rear view camera. Pin 3 and Pin 4 are not used. The type of connector you need is a Rosenberger HSD type E connector. You can also use a Rosenberger HSD type Z connector. Just like the fakra connectors the Rosenberger type Z connector is compatible with all versions of this connector.
  11. 1. Open the Forscan program and connect to the vehicle. 2. If connected succesfully go to the "configuration and programming" tab. 3. Select BCM or (BdyCM) Central Configuration (MAIN). 4. Press the start button at the bottom of the screen. 5. In case of a SBL (Secondary Boot Loader) warning message the correct SBL file needs to be downloaded manually into the prescribed folder. SBL files can be downloaded from: 6. Read all warning pop up messages and click OK if you know the risks and want to proceed. 7. Next the configuration of the car will be read and shown on the screen. 8. Now you can change all configuration settings you like. 9. Press "write" to write the changed configuration file to the BCM. 10. Press "write to backup" to write the changed configuration file to the IPC (this is optional). Note that the configuration and programming functions are only available in extended mode.
  12. In that case I would just find a rosenberger HSD connector from a electronic component supplier and make the adapter cable myself.
  13. The convertor from your link is only suitible for 5 Inch sat nav displays that have a Rosenberger HSD connector for the rear view camera input. These are basically the newer technical design displays that no longer require the rear view camera module to activate the camera input of the display. This convertor basically consists of a Rosenberger HSD connector, a piece of wire and a yellow Cinch connector. Older 5 Inch sat nav displays have a Fakra connector for the rear view camera input. These displays require the rear view camera module to activate the camera input of the display. Without his module the rear view camera input will not be active. Next to this the rear view camera input also needs to be activated in the car configuration. Without correct configuration the rear view camera will not work. Be aware that many rear view camera adapters are based on the USA Ford models. USA Ford models do usually have different electronics. For example the displays of USA Fiesta/Focus models are different from their European equivalents.
  14. A few weeks ago the bodyshop who repaired my car after the break in really screwed up. The paint job looks great but all other parts of the repair were below expectations. In their quotation to the insurance company they offered to have the deep scratches on top of the door panel repaired invisible by a specialist. However during this repair invisible repair turned out not to be possible. The scratches were simply too deep and the structure of the plastic on top of the doorpanel could not be restored completely. Because of this the body shop decided to install a brand new door panel which they ordered from a local Ford dealer. When the car was finished I collected the car from them first thing in the morning and drove to work (less than a mile away from the bodyshop). During closer inspection the new doorpanel turned out to have 2 small but deep cuts on top. After I phoned the bodyshop they asked me to show it to them after work and offered an invisible repair of the 2 cuts. When I drove home I noticed that the rear tweeter did not work correctly so at home I decided to remove the door panel and change the tweeter. However after I removed the door panel I discovered that the bodyshop drilled a hole for the tweeter which was way too big. They tried to fix this with a lot of epoxy glue. Not the quality standard that I was expecting. The next morning I drove to the bodyshop to have a talk about this issue. After a talk with the office employee he called the shop manager to have a look at the door panel. This guy turned out to be not very customer friendly. He said that they did a good job. After I said that my definition of "a good job" was clearly completely different from his he got ***** off and walked away inside the shop. Next he tried to buy me off with my original door panel they attempted to repair. After I refused this they finally offered to order a brand new door panel and tweeter. Because I did not want them to even touch my car again I offered to install the parts myself. The next week I collected the parts from them. This is a MK3.5 door panel. The MK3 doorpanel is no longer available and is replaced by the MK3.5 door panel. The only difference between the MK3 and MK3.5 door panel is the additional sound insulation. Because my car did originally not have the rear tweeters and the parts were ordered based on the VIN number the door panel came without the hole for the tweeter. So I had to make the hole myself. Not a big problem cause I did this before. After 15 minutes of drilling and filing the tweeter fitted perfectly inside the hole. A lot better than the failed attempt of the bodyshop. A few days earlier I noticed a small sound of shattering glass from the particular door. When the door panel was still removed I decided to remove the speaker and have a look inside the door. When I looked inside the door I was quite shocked. The bodyshop replaced the side window but left a lot of the old broken glass inside the door. in an attempt to stop the pieces of glass from shattering they sprayed a considerably amount of wax inside the door. The combination of wax and glass was literally covering some of the draining holes at the bottom of the door. I removed all wax and glass by using a brush and industrial solvent. Afterwards I applied a generous layer of protecting conservation wax. After all repairs were finished I retrofitted the original perimeter alarm system. My car did have most of the wiring. the only part of the wiring that turned out to be missing was the bonnet lock wiring. To retrofit the original perimeter alarm system I only needed the following parts: * Relay. (on stock). * Fuse. (on stock). * Alarm horn. (Ebay) * Roof console with mounting holes for the ultrasonic sensors. (new from Ford). * Ultrasonic sensors with control module. (Ebay). * Bonnet lock with position switch. (new from AliExpress) As an alternative for the original Focus MK3 Alarm horn I used a Mondeo MK3 alarm horn. These can be found for very little money and fit perfectly after some modifications to the mounting bracket. The bonnet lock I bought from AliExpress is basically an aftermarket part. However it is a 100% copy of the original part and the quality is very good. Initially I planned only to use the position switch and install it to my original bonnet lock. However because of the excellent quality and fitment I decided to change the complete lock. After I activated the alarm system functions in the Central car Configuration the perimeter alarm system is fully functional.
  15. Does the Fiesta instrument cluster show which door is open (while all doors are closed)? If not the only way to determine which lock is at fault is by measuring the microswitch output using a multimeter.