Ford Owners Club - Ford Forums Messages

Club Announcements

Discounted Car Insurance: Owners Club insurance could save you money on your car insurance. Get a quote

Review your Ford: Help others when it comes to buying a car like yours and review your Ford now

Ford Car Parts: View All ford car parts by category. Look for Ford Car Parts now!


JW1982

True Ford Enthusiast
  • Content count

    1,286
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About JW1982

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Wilco

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Focus MK3 Champions Edition
  • Ford Year
    2013
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Other/NonUK
  • Annual Mileage
    0 to 5000
  • Interests
    General Automotive
    Car Modification

Previous Fields

  • Location
    The Netherlands

Recent Profile Visitors

5,442 profile views
  1. This is a known problem on the focus MK1.5 instrument cluster. During time the soldering connections and conducting tracks on the circuit board become corroded. The corrosion on the circuit board is conducting so if the circuit board is heavily corroded this can cause a short circuit between two or more tracks on the circuit board. This illuminates the brake and/or ABS warning light at a low intensity because there is still some resistance between the tracks. If the circuit board is lightly corroded the corrosion can be removed with a small brush and alcohol. Afterwards the circuit board must be protected with a non conducting laquer to prevent the circuit board from corroding again. If the circuit board is heavily corroded the best option is to replace the instrument cluster.
  2. This is a known problem of the Focus MK3. The problem is caused by the reinforcement wire that is vulcanised within the rubber seal. this reinforcement wire is stretched during production of the rubber seals. During time the reinforcement wire crimps which causes the rubber seals to come loose. There is a Ford TSB that describes this problem and the instructions prescribed by Ford to fix this problem. To fix this problem there is no need to replace the seals. The vulcanised reinforcement wire needs to be cut at several places. When doing this you actually hear the wire snap. Next the loose rubber seal needs to be glued back into place using a special 2-components adhesive. The curing time of this adhesive is approximately 5 hours. During this time the rubber seals must be secured by using some tape and the car can not be used. Rubber seals are covered by the Ford warranty for only 1 Year. These parts are considered to be subject of wear. In this case the seller of the car is responsible for the warranty. Whether it is covered under warranty or not depends on the sellers warranty regulations the buyer agreed with.
  3. In my opinion you should stay away from the old 1.6 Duratec TI-VCT Petrol engine. The 1.6 Duratec TI-VCT is not bad but its replacement, the 1.0 ECOboost engine is a much nicer type of engine. Compared to the 1.6 Duratec TI-VCT the 1.0 ECOboost has a much higher torque output and a much better fuel economy. Personally I would choose for the 125 HP version of the 1.0 ECOboost. The 125 HP version has the nice 6-speed B6 gearbox combined with a dual mass flywheel while the 100 HP version has the old 5-speed IB5 gearbox combined with a conventional single mass flywheel. Because of the dual mass flywheel the 125 HP version has a bit less vibrations than the 100 HP version. In real life the fuel consumption of both the 100 HP and 125 HP version is basically the same. The ECOboost petrol engine are quite economical and lower maintenance costs than a Diesel engine. Because of this a diesel engine will only be cheaper to run if you drive a lot of Miles each Year.
  4. In some cases a removed advert can still be viewed by google cache. Google stores a cached version of most websites that is renewed every few days. However this is only useful for recently removed website content. Searching with google for the license plate number can sometimes also point you tot the original advert (especially when the car was also advertised on several car trading websites). Another possibility is to search in the browser cache of the computer that was used to view the original advert. As long as the browser cache is not automatically emptied there may be still information stored into the browser cache. If the advert can not be retrieved it will be very difficult to prove anything. The Focus MK3 has a puncture repair kit as standard. This kit consists of a foam insert which fits into the spare wheel well, a mini compressor and a bottle of puncture repair fluid. A space saver spare wheel is a (pretty expensive) optional extra. The space saver spare wheel consists of the space saver spare wheel itself, foam plating to raise the boot floor (the space saver is bigger than the wheel well), a foam insert that fits inside the wheel, a jack and a tyre iron. A full size spare wheel is a (even more expensive) optional extra. The full size spare wheel basically consists of the same pieces as the space saver spare wheel but has even thicker foam plating to make the full size spare wheel fit into the spare wheel well. Whether the car should have a punture repair kit, a space saver spare wheel or a fullsize spare wheel can easily be checked on the Ford Etis website. All specifications and options of the car that are stored inside the Ford database are listed on the Etis website.
  5. I also had this problem on my previous Focus MK2 and I have also seen it before on several other Focus MK2/MK2.5. I had a permanently installed rear seat DVD entertainment system whcih was connected to the AUX input of the radio. In my case the ground problem was caused by the DVD player itself (other sources connected to the AUX input did not have this problem). Rerouting or connecting the 12 Volt DVD wiring on a different location did not solve the problem. Even with the 12 Volt DVD wiring connected directly onto the battery the problem was still there. However after I connected the DVD wiring to an external battery the problem was completely gone. In the end I solved the problem by installing a decent quality ground loop isolator which solved the problem completely. You should also look at the 12 Volt --> USB converter. These convertors are also known to cause interference.
  6. Does not fit. The Focus MK2 brakes are completely different from the focus MK1 brakes. Next to this the focus MK2 has a 5 x 108 bolt pattern while the focus mk1 has a 4 x108 bolt pattern.
  7. To convert the basic electric windows into comfort windows you need the follwing parts: * Front left window motor with door control module. * Front right window motor with door control module. * Front left door wiring loom. * Front Right door wiring loom. * Driver door window/mirror switch assembly. * Passenger door window switch. * Floor wiring loom. The Focus MK2.5 ST/RS 3-door versions were available with a 2-window version of the comfort windows. Parts of this sytem are ideal for retrofitting the comfort window system to any 3/5 door version with basic electric windows. However these parts are pretty rare and hard to find.
  8. The basic electric window system (2-electric windows) is completely different from the more advanced comfort window system (4-electric) windows. The basic electric window system is a conventional controlled system. The electric motors of this system do have 2 wires and are controlled directly by the window switches. This system does not have a pinch protection. The comfort window system is a digitally controlled system. The electric motors of this system are different. These are called smart motors by Ford. Basically the smart motors contain the door control modules which control the electric windows and also some other functions. The door control module communicate with eachother and a number of other modules by the CANbus system. The comfort windows system supports the global opening/global closing functions and quick up/quick down functions for all windows. This system also has a pinch protection system.
  9. There is only one rear disc size for the Focus MK3/MK3.5. Except form the RS all other versions (including the ST) with rear disc brakes have 280 mm discs. 265 mm rear discs were never used on the Focus MK3/MK3.5. My Focus MK3 hatchback with the 125 HP 1.0 ECOboost has exactly the same rear disc brakes as the 182 HP 1.6 ECOboost my parents have. Only the front disc brakes are different.
  10. 278 mm front discs are used on the 1.0 ECOboost, 1.6 TI-VCT and 1.5/1.6 TDCI. 278 mm front discs can either be combined with rear drums or 280 mm rear discs. Whether the car has rear drums or discs depends on several factors like for example the market the car is made for, body type and in some cases even trim level. Many European countries have rear disc brakes as standard while other countries do still have rear drum brakes. 300 mm front discs are used on the 1.5/1.6 ECOboost 2.0 Duratec TI-VCT (160 HP) and the 2.0 TDCI. 300 mm front discs are always combined with 280 mm rear disc brakes.
  11. The Parking Assistance Module is only present on cars that have the original PDC system. Cars without the original PDC system do not have this module. Aftermarket PDC systems have their own control module which does not communicate with other CANbus modules inside the car.
  12. The current Mazda 2 is no longer technically related to the Ford Fiesta. Mazda uses the new Skyactiv chassis which has rear torsion beam suspension. Ford uses a multilink suspension with coil springs. Next to this Mazda uses a 4x100 mm bolt pattern while Ford uses a 4x108 mm bolt pattern. If you want rear disc brakes you can install the Fiesta ST rear disc brakes or a rear disc retrofit kit (from Pumaspeed for example). Another possibility is to build your own retrofit kit using focus MK1 parts and custom made parts to make all fit onto the Fiesta.
  13. DRL lights must comply with European regulations. During day at 100% the Nolden lights are technically seen as DRL lights. It is illegal to use DRL lights in combination with any other lights at the front of the vehicle. Dimmed at 50% the Nolden lights are technically seen as sidelights. This makes it legal to use the dimmed DRL lides in combination with other lights at the front of the vehicle. However because it is illegal to have more than 1 pair of sidelights the original sidelights need to be disabled. This can be done by cutting the wires (as described in the Nolden instructions) or by simply removing the sidelight bulbs. If you want to keep the original sidelights the DRL must switch off completely when the sidelights are on. Automatic lights do not interfere with the DRL lights. The DRL lights will always be on when the ignition is on. This is unrelated to the position of the light switch. This also means that the DRL lights can not be switched off from inside the vehicle (only by removing the fuse). The DRL will be dimmed at 50% when the side lights are switched on either manually or by the automatic light system. The Nolden DRL kit is a Ford accessoire. However except from selling the kit Ford has nothing to do with Nolden. Just like any other manufacturer.Nolden developed the kit themselves as an aftermarket accessoire. Technically the Nolden DRL kit is just the same as any other aftermarket DRL kit.
  14. The grey connector is a Ford specific connector that is not compatible with standard USB connectors. The black connector is also a Ford specific connector but this one is also compatible with mini USB. In about the second half of 2009 Ford the USB cables and connectors. There is no adapter cable to solve this problem so you either have to buy a new USB cable with the correct connector (which is pretty expensive) or you have to connect both cables yourself using generic USB connectors.
  15. You can buy an SD-card from TomTom but it needs to be the correct type for your vehicle. The Ford SatNav systems use maps that are based on TeleAtlas base maps. TeleAtlas is currently owned by TomTom so TomTom also sells SD-cards for most Ford SatNav systems. The only difference between the original Ford SD card and the TomTom SD-card is the label on the card. Note that you can also buy an original SD-card from a Ford dealer outside the UK. Dutch Ford dealers for example sell the original SD-card (western Europe and Turkey) for a fixed price of €99,-. Some dealers even sell them for €89,-. This is a lot cheaper than an SD-card from TomTom.