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True Ford Enthusiast
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JW1982 last won the day on October 22

JW1982 had the most liked content!

About JW1982

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    Ford Enthusiast

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    Focus MK3 Champions Edition
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  • UK/Ireland Location
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    General Automotive
    Car Modification

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    The Netherlands

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  1. 1.0 ecoboost cooling pump question

    On 1.0 ECOboost Focus MK3 versions that are produced before 05-05-2014 the additional electric coolant pump is only present if the car is equipped with a factory fitted towing hook. From 05-05-2014 the additional electric coolant pump is present on every 1.0 ECOboost Focus MK3. This is wat the electric coolant pump looks like:
  2. mondeo zete s alloys on focus

    These 18 Inch Mondeo MK3 wheels are pretty rare. I can not remember that I have ever seen these wheels on a Focus MK2/MK2.5. However In my opinion these wheels will look really great. These wheels (Finis 1134170) are 7.5 x 18 Inch. Be aware that these wheels are partly polished aluminium. The polished parts are only protected by a protective laquer. Polished Ford wheels are in my opinion not suitible for usage in winter. Road salt will cause the polished parts to oxidise under the protective laquer. If the wheels do not have the polished parts they are refurbished. When refurbishing these kind of wheels most people decide to paint or powdercoat the complete wheel.
  3. Rain Sensor Calibration

    Was the windsceen replaced by a Ford dealer or by a car glass company? Car glass companies do usually not use OEM Ford windscreens. They usually use aftermarket brands like for example Pilkington or Saint Gobain Sekurit. Despite often being produced by the same manufacturer aftermarket windscreens are often not fully identical to the OEM Ford windscreens. Differences in color or heat reflective specifications can affect the functionality of the rain/light sensor. I know a few cases of rain/light sensor problems which occurred after the OEM windscreen was replaced by an aftermarket windscreen. Replacement of both the gelpad and rain sensor did not solve the problem. Same for another aftermarket windscreen. After the aftermarket windscreen was replaced by an OEM windscreen all problems were solved. If the windscreen was replaced by a Ford dealer the new windscreen should have a Ford logo. Personally I would go to the company that replaced the windscreen to have them solve the problem.
  4. Mk3 reverse camera

    Which wiring harness do you have? the wiring for the original rear view camera is included in 2 or 3 different wiring harnesses. The harness that goes into the tailgate is available as a seperate part. The rest of the rear view camera wiring is part of the interior and dashboard wiring harness. If the rear view camera wiring is missing on those harnesses you either have to change the complete wiring harnesses or you have to make the wiring yourself.
  5. The schematic you draw is correct. The link of the schematic you posted is not correct. This schematic is based on the older BVC (Bluetooth/Voicecontrol) system. Below some schematic drawings I have of the SYNC 1 system:
  6. You first have to find the MM-CANbus wiring inside the dashboard wiring harness. Next the (twisted) MM CANbus wires from the APIM module can be soldered onto the existing MM-CANbus wires. It is recommended to use a small gas powered soldering Iron. An electric soldering iron can cause damage to CANbus modules (However I never had any problems) When using an electric soldering iron it is recommended to disconnect the battery and earth the wiring before soldering. The Focus MK3 has several ground connection points. For example behind the side center console cover plates in the footwells. The original additional antenna is integrated into the rear window (Hatchback) or rear side window (Wagon). If you want to install the original additional antenna you have to replace the particular window. The additional antenna system also consists of an antenna filter/amplifier and different antenna wiring. Personally I woud just install an aftermarket window antenna or use a Fakra antenna splitter to connect the aditional antenna. This is the schematic of the old Bluetooth/Voicecontrol system. The old Bluetooth/Voicecontrol system is completely different from the newer 1st generation SYNC system.
  7. A few weeks ago my parents called from their holiday adress in Germany. The engine warning light and Start/Stop light on the button of their 1.6 ECOboost 2012 Focus MK3 were activated. However the car still ran perfectly without any loss of power or warning messages. unfortunately it is very difficult to diagnose the problem properly from a distance. As a start I explained my parents the procedure to enter the test menu of the instrument cluster and advised them to disconnect the battery for a while. Disconnecting the battery did not solve the problem and the instrument cluster test menu did not show any important DTC codes so they decided to continue driving and have me take a look at it. Last week I performed a diagnostic session using my VCM2 interface with a recent version of the Ford IDS software. the IDS software showed the following DTC code: P2542 - Low Pressure Fuel System Sensor Circuit High After deleting the DTC code it came back immediately. However the warning lights stayed off for about 1 day before they were acivated again. Last friday I finally had time to take a proper look at it. It only took a minute before I found the cause of this problem: The connector of the low pressure fuel pump: Was no longer connected to the wiring harness. Because about 1 cm of one of the wires was missing and the other 2 wires clearly showed some bite marks this indicates that the damage is caused by an animal (most likely a Beech Marten). After I discovered the cause of the problem it was time for repair of the damage: I soldered the wires back together and use shrink tubing to insulate the connections. Afterwards I re-installed the original protective sleeving and applied a few extra layers of the original cloth insulation tape. Unfortunately I forgot to bring my diagnostic equipment so i was not able to delete the DTC code. As an alternative I used the test menu of the instrument cluster. After repair the test menu did show "NO DTC". However the warning lights were still active. I decided to start/stop the engine a few times. The warning lights went off after I started the engine for the 5th time. The system is designed in a way that non critical DTC codes are erased automatically if the problem is no longer present for 5 starts. Further investigation of the wiring and hoses/pipes did fortunately not show any more damage.
  8. discs Size

    You definetely need the correct size brake discs. 300 mm brake discs do not fit on 278 mm cliper brackets (and vice versa). The Focus MK2/MK2.5 with the 1.6 TDCI engine should have the smaller 278 mm front brake discs. These are combined with 265 mm rear disc or rear drum brakes. However before ordering parts it is a good idea to take a look and measure the disc diameter.
  9. Based on the (limited) schematics I have of the SYNC 1 system your diagram seems to be correct. However If you want to be 100% sure you need to buy access to the latest schematics on the Ford ETIS website. 1 Hour access costs about €8,-. However you should be aware of the following: * You also need the correct SYNC 1 steering wheel control switch and the corresponding steering wheel wiring harnesses. * On your schematic the MM-CANbus wiring is directly connected to the ACM. This is not correct. The MM-CANbus consists of a network that connects the OBD connector, Instrument Cluster, ACM, FCDIM and APIM. You need to splice your MM-CANbus APIM wiring the correct way into the MM-CANbus network wiring. * You need to splice your HS-CANbus APIM wiring the correct way into the HS-CANbus network wiring. * The APIM module officially has its own ground connection. Connecting the ground wires of the APIM module directly to the ground wires of the ACM can result in interference. * If your system is configured for Emergency Assistance you either need to install the GPSM module or you have to change the configuration manually (be aware that the correct settings are hard to obtain). * The High Level audio system has an additional FM/AM antenna with amplifier. The additional FM/AM antenna is integrated into the rear windscreen (Hatchback) or rear left side window (Wagon). When retrofitting the High Level audio system an additional FM/AM antenna must also be installed. Personally i would not bother about the FCDIM cooling. Most people who retrofit the 5 Inch FCDIM do not even install the FCDIM cooling socket and hose. Some markets (countries) do not even have the FCDIM cooling socket and hose. After installing the system you need to change the following parameters: #112 In Car Entertainment --> 04 High Level Audio System #113 Voicecontrol --> 02 With Voicecontrol #123 Audio Auxiliary Input --> 02 Witx AUX Input #124 Audio Player --> 04 Player For 1-CD With MP3 #154 Accessory USB Unit --> 04 With USB Unit And IPOD Function #157 Bluetooth Handsfree --> 08 SYNC G1 BT-Phone BT-Audio #172 Touchscreen --> 06 With display - No Touchscreen, Colour-TFT, MFD 5 #187 Audio Buttons On Steering Wheel --> 02 With Audio Buttons In Steering Wheel #214 Integrated Control panel --> 05 Navigation ICP Some parameters may be the same as your current audio system.
  10. Swap to DAB 6CD unit

    I retrofitted the Sony 6-CD DAB radio combined with the Sound & Connect system (Bluetooth/Voicecontrol with USB, Bluetooth Audio and Ipod support) to my previous Focus MK2. The Premium Sony 6-CD DAB radio is a really nice radio. This the best sounding OEM Ford radio that was available in the Focus MK2.5. The sound quality is excellent (In combination with the Premium Sony speakers even a bit better). However the Sony radio's have 2 known problems. The 1st problem is that Sony Radio's have the same (Philips) amplifier IC as the 6000CD. This type of amplifier IC is known to cause problems relatively often. No speaker output on 1 or more speaker channels or an internal short circuit which causes 12 Volt battery power to ruin the speakers are just 2 examples. The 2nd problem is the 6-CD changer mechanism. This mechanism is known to be a weak parts that often causes problems. The mechanism is very compact, pretty complex and contains some small plastic parts. These plastic parts are known to break wich causes the mechanism to jam completely. CD-changer problems can be prevented by only loading 5 CD's and leaving the top CD empty. In the past I repaired a lot of these Sony radio's by replacing the amplifier IC or by replacing the broken plastic parts of the 6-CD changer mechanism with custom made fiberglass parts. Because of the 6-CD changer mechanism problems the single CD version is more reliable in my opinion. If combined with the Sound & Connect system my experience is that the CD player functionality will barely be used. Most people who have the Sound & Connect system use the USB functionality instead.
  11. On the Focus MK2/MK2.5 Ford used bolts with a 24 mm and a 27 mm hex head. However the 27 mm ones are a lot more common. For safety reasons Ford prescribes to use the steering wheel bolt only once. Once removed it needs to be changed. The threads of a new steering wheel bolt are covered with Loctite. When reusing the old steering wheel bolt you should at least also use Loctite.
  12. Different lbs/ft Torque!

    Since the introduction of the 1.0 ECOboost in 2012 all 125 HP versions have 170 Nm (125 ft lbs) of torque between 1500 and 4500 RPM during normal operation and 200 Nm (147 ft lbs) of torque in overboost. There is no difference in torque output between the MK3 and MK3.5. I only use RON 98 for over 10 Years now. It makes the engine run a bit smoother while the fuel consumpion is slightly lower. In the end the running costs will not be much different between RON 95 and RON 98 fuel. However I my opinion a modern turbocharged petrol engine benefits more from higher octane fuel than the old naturally aspirated petrol engines.
  13. Different lbs/ft Torque!

    Actually both are true. The 125 HP version of the 1.0 ECOboost has 170 Nm (125 ft lbs) of torque between 1500 and 4500 RPM during normal operation and 200 Nm (147 ft lbs) of torque in overboost. The overboost function is available for a maximum of 30 seconds. After releasing the throttle pedal (for example when shifting gears) the overboost function will be available again. The 100 HP version only has 170 Nm (125 ft lbs) between 1500 and 4500 RPM of torque and no overboost function. Note that the 1.6 Zetec S(E) (focus MK1) only has 145 Nm (107 ft lbs) of torque at 4000 RPM and the 1.6 Duratec (Focus MK2) only has 150 Nm (110 ft lbs) of torque at 4000 RPM. Note that the listed power and torque output of the 1.0 ECOboost is based on RON 95 fuel. My experience is that the usage of high octane fuel seriously improves the power and torque output of the 1.0 ECOboost. I only use RON 98 fuel or if available even higher ocatane fuel. In the past my 125 HP 1.0 ECOboost Focus MK3 turned out to be even quicker than a 2.0 Duratec Focus MK2.5.
  14. Swap Xenon + Halogen Headlights to Bi-Xenon

    The OEM Focus MK3 HID (Xenon) headlights are actually Bi-Xenon headlights. The projectors are equipped with an electric actuator that controls a shutter that changes the light image of the projector. Because of this the HID lights have a higher light output when the High Beam is switched on. Next to the Bi-Xenon projectors the OEM HID lights do also have an additional halogen bulb. The purpose of this bulb is to use the high Beam for flashing. During day when the HID lights are switched off the HID lights are not suitible for flashing. It simply takes too much time before the HID lights obtain their full intensity. This makes them useless for flashing. As a solution for this most manufacturers use an additional halogen bulb next to the Bi-Xenon projectors.
  15. Yes it is. The old 100 HP 1.6 Sigma (Zetec S(E)/Duratec) is a nice engine but in my opinion the 1.0 ECOboost is a lot nicer. The 1.0 ECOboost is more refined, has more power, a lot more torque and better MPG figures.