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      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

      it has been noted that too many Members are posting messages in the General Chat area instead of the correct Forums. Any messages posted in the General Chat area that are not General Chat will be deleted without warning and offenders may recieve warning points if repeated instances are seen from that Member. There are plenty of different Club areas that encompass 99% of Ford related posts, please select and use the correct one. If anyone is not sure of which area to post something then feel free to P/M myself or other Senior Staff for guidance. The Moderating Staff are having to spend far too much time chasing this problem instead of maintaining the other areas of the forum.


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JW1982 last won the day on November 18

JW1982 had the most liked content!

About JW1982

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    Focus MK3 Champions Edition
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  1. Switch symbols

    This switch deactivates the ultrasonic interior sensors of the alarm system. This way the alarm system is armed without monitoring the interior. This way the alarm can be used when for excample a dog is left in the car
  2. Please help electrical fault

    You should check the wiring harness to the tailgate. The problems you describe are often caused by broken wiring or damaged wiring insulation. This kind of damage usually occurs inside or near the rubber boot between the tailgate and the body of the car.
  3. DRL's on Mk 3 Focus

    These are the Nolden DRL lights that are sold as an official accessory from Ford. The price is quite normal for the Nolden DRL lights. Next to the Nolden DRL kit Ford also offers a kit of Osram combined DRL/fog lights. It is just a matter of taste but I personally prefer the vertical DRL lights inside the front bumper triangles. I have these DRL lights for almost 3 Years now without any problems. The ones I have are really good quality.
  4. Auto locking doors

    The Autolocking functionality is available on every Focus model since the introduction of the Focus MK1.5 back in 2001. However this functionality is switched OFF as standard on all European versions. On the MK2/MK2.5 and MK3/MK3.5 the Autolocking needs to be activated in the vehicle configuration. Once activated the Autolocking functionality can be switched ON and OFF (if needed) by performing the correct procedure. Ford Europe does officially not support the autolocking function because of legal/responsibility reasons. The autolocking function is still present in the IDS and FRDS software but is greyed out and can not be activated. On the Ford IDS diagnostic system the autolocking function can still be activated from within the engineering mode of the program. However a normal Ford dealer does not use the engineering mode (or does not even know it exists). Because of this a European Ford dealer can officially not activate the autolocking function. However it is perfectly possible to activate the autolocking function on most European Ford models. On a Focus MK3/MK3.5 the autolocking function can be activated by enabling the autolocking function in the Central Car Configuration using a suitible diagnostic system. For example an ELM327 interface and the free FoCCCus (MK3) or Forscan (both MK3 and MK3.5 software.
  5. Advise needed! ABS, GPS...

    On the Focus MK3/MK3.5 the speed is calculated by the ABS module based on the ABS sensors and programmed tire size. The calculated speed is transmitted over the CANbus system to every CANbus module that requires the speed signal. If one of the ABS sensors does not output a correct signal the ABS module can not calculate the correct speed. This can cause problems with all functionality that requires the speed signal. Next to the GPS antenna the SatNav system also uses the speed signal to calculate the position of the vehicle. A missing or incorrect speed signal can cause GPS problems.
  6. 3 Weeks ago when I installed the RS air filter housing I discovered the coolant level being low. The coolant level was just below the MIN mark while it was still at the MAX mark the week before. I lost about half a liter of coolant in only 1 week/less than 100 KM. After a quick search I found the cause of the leak. The water pump showed pink signs of coolant that were caused by a defective water pump seal. In my opinion way too soon. A water pump should last a lot longer than only 4 Years and less than 30.000 KM (18500 Miles). The original water pump is produced by Pierburg. Because of the disappointing longevity of the original water pump I did not want to install the same pump again. After some searching I decided to install an SKF pump instead. When the SKF water pump arrived 2 days later I decided to install it immediately. The water pump of the 1.0 ECOboost can be accessed quite easily. First I lifted the front of the car (really needed on a lowered Focus MK3 with lower 18 inch tyres). Next I removed the engine undertray and drained the coolant by opening the drain valve at the bottom of the radiator. After the coolant was fully drained I removed the engine cover and several Turbo hoses on top of the engine. Next I released the water pump pulley bolts and removed the serpentine belt. After I removed the water pump pulley bolts I removed the water pump pulley. Next I removed the water pump bolts. The water pump is secured with 5 short M6 bolts and 2 longer M6 bolts. After all bolts were removed I removed the water pump from the engine block. The water pump has a coated metal gasket which forms a seal between the water pump and the engine block. After I cleaned all mating faces I attached a new gasket to the new water pump. The gasket has several tabs to clamp the gasket onto the water pump housing. This prevents the gasket from falling or dislocating during assembly. Next I installed the new water pump onto the engine block and inserted the mounting bolts. After this I tightened all bolts at the prescribed torque/angle. Next I closed the coolant drain valve and vacuum tested the cooling system at the prescribed vacuum. To do this I use a vacuum pump (old fridge compressor) and an adapter I made myself. During testing the adapter is installed onto the coolant reservoir (it basically replaces the coolant reservoir cap). The adapter has an O-ring for a perfect seal. I applied vacuum to the cooling system and closed the valve on the adapter when the prescribed vacuum was achieved. After about 30 minutes the cooling system did still have exactly the same vacuum which idicated that the system was completely airtight. Next I put the hose at the side of my adapter inside a container of fresh coolant and slowly opened the valve. The vacuum inside the cooling system simply sucks the fresh coolant into the cooling system without causing any airpockets inside the cooling system. This way it is not needed to purge the system afterwards. After I removed the adapter I topped up the coolant and installed a new coolant reservoir cap. The O-rings of the coolant reservoir cap are known to swell which caused the cap to become stuck after some time. The coolant reservoir cap is pretty inexpensive so I decided to replace it anyway. Next I installed the water pump pully, serpentine belt and all Turbo hoses. No doubts about the condition of the old water pump. I took advantage of the situation by changing the engine oil and oil filter at the same time. When I drained the coolant I also drained the engine oil. I changed the oil filter for a new original one and installed a new sump plug. I used an original Landrover sump plug which is 100% identical to the original Ford sump plug. It even has the same part number. However the Landrover sump plug was almost 70% cheaper than the Ford one.
  7. MK2 revs

    That is completely correct. Hower 7,200 RPM at 70 MPH seems a typo to me. I suspect that you mean 3,200 RPM? The Focus MK2/MK2.5 is much heavier than the Focus MK1/MK1.5. The 1.6 Duratec petrol engine is basically a bit underpowered for the quite heavy Focus MK2/MK2.5. To make the car perform acceptably Ford changed the gear ratios. Compared to the Focus MK1/MK1.5 this resulted in a higher RPM at the same speed/gear. Because the 1.6 Duratec Petrol engine is quite underpowered for the Focus MK2/MK2.5 the engine needs to be revved quite hard. This also results in pretty poor MPG figures.
  8. On the Focus MK3/MK3.5 the outside temperature sensor is integrated into the passenger side wing mirror housing. The damage to the mirror is most likely also the reason of the defective temperature sensor.
  9. Breakdown - help!

    You should also inspect the water pump. Just like some other Ford engines the 1.0 ECOboost has a coolant lubricated water pump seal (mechanical seal). On this type of seal a miniscule amount of coolant is allowed to pass/lubricate the seal. Unfortunately these waterpumps are known to leak quite often. The water pump of the 1.0 ECOboost is mounted directly above the alernator. In case of a leaking water pump the coolant will drip directly into the generator. This will reduce the life expectancy of the alternator drastically. Last week I changed the water pump on my 1.0 ECOboost because of this problem.
  10. Focus 1.6 2009 outer crankshaft seal

    An oil seal needs to be installed 100% straight otherwise there is a huge chance that the seal will leak sooner or later. The best way to install an oil seal is by using the original installation tool or a suitible universal bearing/oil seal installation tool. I always use a similar kit than the one on the picture. When installing an oil seal it is important that the tool contacts the full face of the oil seal. Next to this the oil seal must be pushed in straight. This way there is no risk to bend or damage the oil seal during installation. Based on the picture the oil seal seems to be bend. Personally I would take the oil seal out and replace it. Leaving it this way will most likely result in an oil leak (probably a bigger leak than before). Oil contamination of the timing belt can seriously affect the life of a timing belt.
  11. Rapid water loss, 1.6 ecoboost mk3

    Yes, it has. However there has never been a recall for the degas hose of the 1.6 ECOboost. Just like the 1.0 ECOboost the design of the 1.6 ECOboost degas hose has been changed (a few times) during production. Vehicles which have the old designs degas hose should have it replaced for the latest revised version of degas hose. However even the latests design degas hose can fail. The 1.6 ECOboost of my parents did already have the latest design degas hose (it was changed less than 2 Years ago). Unfortunately 3 Weeks ago the degas hose failed at high speed at a German motorway.
  12. Rapid water loss, 1.6 ecoboost mk3

    You should start with pressure/vacuum testing the cooling system to find the cause of the coolant loss. Known causes of coolant leaks on the 1.6 ECOboost are: 1. Leaking water pump seal. 2. Cracked degas hose. 3. Cracked coolant reservoir. 4. cracked or warped thermostat housing. Next to this there are also examples of defective cilinder head gaskets or cracked cilinder heads. You should not drive the car in this condition. The 1.6 ECOboost only has a coolant temperature sensor. In case of coolant loss the coolant temperature sensor will measure air instead of coolant. Air does not conduct heat very well so in case of severe coolant loss the PCM will not detect overheating. In this case engine damage will occur very quick without a warning (temperature gauge or warming message).
  13. Not what I needed really need help

    On the Focus MK2/MK2.5 the PATS system basically consist of 4 parts: 1. Instrument cluster. 2. PCM. 3. PATS transponder receiver at the ignition switch. 4. Transponders inside each ignition key. The transponder serial numbers are stored inside the instrument cluster. The instrument cluster is synchronised with the PCM (PATS pairing or PATS initialization). The instrument cluster communicates with the PCM over the CANbus network. When the signal of a PATS transponder is received the instrument cluster compares the transmitted serial number with the ones that are stored inside the instrument cluster. Only if the transponder serial number matches and the instrument cluster and PCM are correctly synchronised the PATS system deactivates.
  14. St to RS airbox conversion

    A few weeks ago I ordered some genuine Ford parts from a German parts supplier to service 2 vehicles.Because I had to pay the shipping costs anyway I decided to order the complete RS air filter housing also. I paid €80,- for the complete RS air filter housing I sold the original paper air filter that came with the housing for €11,- to my parents so the RS air filter housing only costed me €69,-. I order most original parts from: http://www.original-teile.de/lang/uk/index.html The only downside is that the part prices can be different each day.
  15. St to RS airbox conversion

    The complete Focus MK3.5 RS air filter housing is a direct fit to the Focus MK3/MK3.5 ST. The top part of the MK3.5 RS air filter housing is also a direct fit to any Focus MK3/MK3.5. I installed the top part of the RS air filter housing on my 1.0 ECOboost air filter housing without any problems. The bottom part can also be installed into any Focus MK3/MK3.5 but this requires some extra parts like the additional ST/RS air intake hose and snorkel. The Focus MK3.5 RS air filter housing is only available as a complete assembly which consists of the bottom part, top part and the original paper air filter insert. Some sellers only offer the top part (and simply throw the bottom part away to reduce shipping costs). Until last Year the complete RS air filter housing could be bought a lot cheaper from the USA than in Europe. Some official USA Ford dealers offered the complete RS air filter housing for under 50 Dollars while the European retail prices are just above €100,-. Currently the USA retail price is about 80 Dollar. The UK Ebay seller is offering only a 3D printed custom mesh part. To install this custom part you need to cut the original RS mesh part from your own RS air filter housing.