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Budding Enthusiast
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About Jensen

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  • Birthday 07/28/1978

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    Focus ST 500
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    ---------Northern Ireland-----------
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    0 to 5000
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  1. Hi There I have a 2010 Mondeo estate 1.8 tdci titanium with 125,000 miles on it and it has just started to do the same whine - I have narrowed the whine to either the alternator or auxiliary drive belt tensioner. I need to do a water pump on it real soon anyway (which is driven by the auxiliary belt) so I will find out here in the next week or two. Have also noticed an oil leak coming from the lower wet timing belt cover area so all in the one corner - Suppose with the age & mileage these things are starting to fail now - Will post my findings
  2. Update - Car not operating as it should Brand new fuel filter again..! Topped up the filter head housing 3 times and bled the injectors at the metallic pipes and she started and has been running grand ever since Note to self - Don't ever stray away from BP fuel again Problem was water & debris in the fuel filter & housing Thanks for all the 1 of replies...!
  3. Hi Wee update - Removed the fuel filter housing on the side of the cylinder head and took the top of it, Housing only a third filled with diesel - topped it up with diesel, resealed it and refitted it to the engine bay, Cranked it over and it started and then cut out 5-7 seconds later Suspect primary fuel pump in tank - Cant get a brand new fuel pump anywhere from a parts store so looking like a dealer part only Cant wait to price this ?
  4. Hi It will more than likely be a worn clutch plate or clutch pressure plate - Try pushing the clutch pedal as far to the floor as you can and wait 3-4 seconds before engaging reverse see if it doesn't crunch then - Should only crunch typically in 1st or reverse from standing start Check for fluid leaks around slave cylinder at gearbox (if visible) slave cylinder could be part of the release bearing assembly which might be inside the bell housing if so look at bottom of gearbox at sump interface for clutch fluid leak If slave cylinder inside bell housing - Gearbox out I'm afraid so would be adviseable to replace clutch kit assembly whilst at it due to mileage on clutch / engine if it's on its original clutch that is Please report back with them findings...!
  5. Hi There Yes if there is still warranty left on it get it back asap - Sounds like it could be the idle air control valve sticking - Get it looked at / cleaned out and run a diagnostics check on it - Worth while checking the air filter and surrounding pipe work for split vacuum pipes or pipes that have came off there location
  6. Hi Alex With your car having 100,000 miles on it, it could well be an oil leak form the flywheel oil seal as these are constantly getting heated & cooled every day and to be honest its a miracle they actually last as long as they do as the crankshaft rotates inside the seal thousands of times per minute I would put money on the people who fixed the sump gasket didn't seal it correctly especially at the flywheel side as this can be a wee bit more awkward to get at what with the space around it Jack the car up & remove the sump guard / splash guards clean in and around the leak area really well and let the car idle and watch from below with a good light you should see the leak appear and be able to determine if its the sump seal at edge of sump or coming from beyond that - Also check the top of the engine above the gearbox bell housing sometimes oil can leak from the rocker cover or cylinder head area and run down the back / sides of the block giving the impression its flywheel oil seal or sump gasket.
  7. Hi There 2010 Mondeo Estate 1.8 tdci titanium Mileage: 125,000 Condition: Like new in all aspects Service: Full service history - Extremely well looked after I have a 2010 1.8 tdci Mondeo estate titanium I have owned the car for 3 years now and its been great to me so far - I went out yesterday morning to start the car to let it warm up in the back garden before my journey to work ( As I always do ), It started OK but cut out about 5 seconds later - It turns over on the starter motor fine with a great strong battery but just wont even attempt to start - It almost like fuel starvation. This is the first & only time this car has let me down to date & the previous owner said he never had any issues with it in his three years of owning it ( Company car well documented service ) The car was fully serviced by myself just 6 weeks ago with all new filters, This car gets anything it needs plus more as I like to look after my car Timing belt kits both wet & dry all changed at 90,000 miles along with water pump & coolant Have tried disconnecting the battery for a couple of hours & opening & closing the locking by key & remote thinking it might be an immobiliser issue but still no joy Going to hook up my diagnostic computer tonight but no EML light on First thoughts were fuel have unplugged a few electrical connections under the bonnet around the fuel rail & fuel pump to inspect connections, I am now thinking its a fuel issue so going to remove the fuel filter and check for fuel Doesn't appear to be a buzz from the primary pump in the tank upon ignition lights ( but to be honest cant remember how loud or noticeable this was even when it was starting OK ) Could it be Alarm / Immobiliser ? Primary or Secondary fuel pumps ? Giving the mileage on it maybe one of the fuel pumps has ran its course Also put £40 of diesel in it on Sunday from a BP garage - All my fords run on BP Only Any ideas guys ?
  8. Has no-one out of the 50 views so far nothing to add to this post ?
  9. Just completed a 1.8td engine conversion on my 2002 Escort van & have fuel/turbo issues Donor car was a 97 Escort td (70ps Non intercooled) Had to swap nearly everything from the van set up onto the td engine due to the 5 year age gap between vehicles (so many differences), New TD engine running the old non turbo fuel pump due to the turbo pump having 5 wires and van wiring loom having only 3 wires, so made the decision whilst the engine was out to use the 3 pin fuel pump as I knew it would work with the van wiring loom. The van starts & drives ok but turbo not kicking in, the turbo is working but not boosting like it should I believe the non turbo fuel pump currently running on the turbo engine is the problem to why it's not boosting so my question is would the actual original 5 pin turbo fuel pump work on the vans 3 pin wiring loom .? turbo fuel pump doesn't have the turbo boost pipe btw Should I try & turn up the fuel on the non turbo fuel pump currently on the turbo engine or take a chance & swap the 5 pin turbo fuel pump back onto the engine knowing the loom on the van only has 3 wires...?
  10. Hi There Have a 2002 Escort 1.8 diesel van with 101,000 miles (work horse) just lately its become ill Last week its was driving perfectly until all of a sudden it started knocking & smoking It has had timing belts along with water pump changed recently by myself ( ex ford mechanic ) & a full engine service & she was on the button as always I have re-checked the timing both on the cam & the pump - Timing is perfect.Removed the cam cover & checked the cam & followers - All ok & doing what they should do.Cracked the fuel pipes coming from the pump to each injector whilst it was running and it went to cut out on every cylinder each time - Also swapped out the injectors one by one with a known good injector - Still running rough.The engine sounds and looks like its off a cylinder at idle - It knocks & smokes (blue smoke) between idle & 3 thousand revs after 3 thousand revs it sounds & performs normal.It drives OK and still has the same power as it ised to.Going to remove the injectors again and perform a compression test on each cylinder to eliminate a bad valve or broken ring(s) Head gasket OK & strats straight away Could the avanced solenoid on the pump be faulty ? Cranking note has changed slightly (timing ok though) & it's putin up through the inlet manifold on idle Any ideas guys ?
  11. Welcome to the Ford forums Jensen :)