RB2004

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    90
  • Joined

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About RB2004

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Ronald J

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Ford Focus 2008 Titanium with Sport Pack
  • Ford Year
    2008
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Essex
  • Annual Mileage
    5001 to 10,000

Recent Profile Visitors

1,672 profile views
  1. First try disconnecting car battery and re-connecting it. if it still wont upload, then remove the ECU from the vehicle... its found in the passenger side wheelarch behind the plastic liner. need to cut slots in the heads of the bolts then you can undo with a screwdriver. next, need to physically open the ECU, then bench flash directly back onto the chip so you will need to find somebody who can give you an ECU dump. if you don't have the facility to do this a new PCM will be required and programming by ford as at the moment its essentially in a "Bricked" state.
  2. Stilsons will do it Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC
  3. TSB 95/2009 Should a customer express concern about exhaust gas smell inside of passenger cabin when the engine is running in idle and the vehicle is in stationary position, the probable cause is a misalignment of the catalytic converter to the turbocharger. Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC
  4. Can't remember but on Mondeo which s max is based on, on 1 engine there was a tsb about exhaust fumes. Apparently a bracket on exhaust where it joints turbo needed modifying and adjusting Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC
  5. No problem :) Lots of people think it's an engine mount, even on car parts websites it's listed under engine mount... But it's not an engine mount and does nothing to mount the engine. So like you have found you will have more luck searching for a engine roll restrictor. Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC
  6. It's not an engine mount. It's a torque / roll restrictor does nothing to mount engine, just stops it rolling backwards under acceleration. That's why you are Having problems probably because you are searching for engine mount. Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC
  7. Best to always use genuine plugs. On the fords genuine or ngk works but on the PSA cars ngk is bad for the engine and it's usually bosch or genuine that are recommended lol but bosch don't work so well on the Zetec engines. So genuine is only safe bet. Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC
  8. Just reload using AsBuilt data to reset everything. Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC
  9. Garage can use their smoke testing machine to fill car with smoke and see where it's leaking. Any decent garage now has a smoke machine for smoke testing inlet manifolds etc. Smoke is best way to test door seals Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC
  10. Ford use ATE mostly Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC
  11. Pagid disks on Textar pads of textar is available is the best combination. Textar are same company as pagid TMD friction but slightly better compound and quality, often have a cut down the centre to help remove brake dust also... Whereas pagid equivalent doesnt. Steel brake pipes require different equipment to copper for forming due to it being tougher Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC
  12. I think people who get these things removed should rethink their moral compass. As inconvenient they are and expensive to repair they are there to help improve air quality for everyone... Just think of that black crap being breathed in by babies, toddlers, children or people with breathing conditions... You are contributing to the destruction of people's health just to save yourself a few quid... Morally speaking the health of a developing baby is more important than a few quid repairing the system. Bearing in mind that babies and children in prams and pushchairs aren't much higher off the ground than your exhaust so any cloud of black particulate is going to be easily breathed in. Answer should be you shouldn't of brought the car in the first place if you can't afford to maintain it... Would be like buying a Ferrari and saying but I didn't know it would use so much petrol so I will detune it. Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC
  13. Isn't it cheaper to cut the top mount to get better grip on the shock and replace the mount than replace the shock and mount? As above there is a special tool. The one I did was also too corroded but I managed to get some stilsons on the shock absorber to grip it at the very top just under the mount and a 2 ft long bar on the socket and it came undone with some brute force. Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC
  14. Just had to do one today for a customer. The modification plate is a must! I only use genuine springs though, they are colour coded and there's about 6 different springs depending on engine petrol or diesel, engine size, trim level, Manual or auto gearbox and they are different lengths and have different spring rates etc... Almost impossible to find a pattern spring that replaces like for like. Just a bugger the price is so expensive from ford. Also had to change boot as spring took that with it, top mount as it was notchy and brake pipe because spring made a nice mess of that also. Irony is the spring has been changed before, but person never did the ford upgrade and now here we are again with a failed spring. Forgot the anti squeal pad but not sure it's required with genuine springs because it has a rubber sleeve around the bottom anyway where the pad would normally go. So can't advise enough the importance of the zinc plate. Could of done with the specialist tool but can't find anywhere selling it besides ford? Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC
  15. This figure is only true for some vehicles. There is a different figure for steel wheels and alloy wheels, and within each with washers and without washers on nuts... Even a figure if it has gold or silver coloured wheel nuts? And another if it's 2001 vehicle only. Also a note saying not to use grease or lubricant like copper grease on studs or nuts even. Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC