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tunne1rat

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    191
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About tunne1rat

  • Rank
    Feet Under The Table
  • Birthday 03/03/1966

Contact Methods

  • ICQ
    0
  • First Name
    Steve

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Fiesta Zetec S
  • Ford Year
    2010
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Suffolk
  • Annual Mileage
    5001 to 10,000

Recent Profile Visitors

5,093 profile views
  1. Happy Birthday tunne1rat!

  2. I bought them over a year ago so the original link is now dead. The remote and LED controller look identical to this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1M-2M-3M-4M-5M-5050-Waterproof-IP65-RGB-LED-Strip-44-Keys-IR-Remote-Controller-/200942701195?pt=UK_Pet_Supplies_Fish&var=&hash=item2ec91e4a8b
  3. My colour changing LEDs have a memory function and always come on to the last selected colour. They also have preset memory banks so that custom colours can be made and stored.
  4. Where can I find the tweeters you used?

    1. tunne1rat

      tunne1rat

      I got mine from ebay.

  5. One thing that annoys me about Ford is the lack of attention spent on the Audio. Apart from the navigation headunits fitted to the Mondeo platform (and previous Focus platform), all of the audio systems are built by Visteon (formerly Ford Audio) - yes even the Sony branded models. The blame cannot be attributed entirely to the Visteon headunits though. The speakers are just as bad! As an ICE installer of many years, it is no problem for me to change all or part of a system to get the best performance. Sometimes I like to do a full install with custom made speaker and subwoofer enclosures (like my last S-Max install) and sometimes I keep it low key with just a few minor alterations. After listening to the Fiesta audio for some time, I concluded that a big improvement could be made to the audio simply by replacing the tweeters. I purchased some JL Audio tweeters for £20 and set about installing them. Luckily the tweeters can be replaced without removing the door cards. Here’s how I did it. The sound is now much brighter and a massive improvement over the muddy original. All for such a small amount of money and effort.
  6. One thing I find lacking with the Fiesta is not having a 12v socket in the boot for running accessories or a cool box when going out for the day - so I decided to fit one. Here’s how I did it. Firstly the parcel shelf support trim needs to be removed. This is best done with the rear seat reclined: Now for the wiring. For my requirements I need around 7A. That is too much to load onto any existing circuit around the rear of the car, so I decided to run a new feed from the fuse box. I ordered 5m of thinwall 11A cable. When it arrived I was surprised at how thin it was! After some reassurance from the supplier that it will be fine (fingers crossed), I also ordered a fuse adaptor, a 10A fuse and various crimp terminals. I then set about installing it all. To access the fuse box behind the glovebox, first empty the glovebox and squeeze the sides together so that the glovebox can open fully exposing the fuse panel behind.
  7. I may have mentioned this before, but the Zetec S interior lights are pants! To add insult to injury, I also have no wiring for the foot-well lights. So as part of an on-going interior light upgrade, I decided to wire my own. This guide is primarily for the Mk7 Fiesta but could be adapted for any car. I got the bulb holders from a certain auction website which fit neatly into the holes provided by Ford. I took the power feed from the roof courtesy light centre bulb so that the foot-well lights come on with the courtesy light but can also operate on demand by switching on the roof light. This suites my requirements as I have no intention of having them on whilst driving, but can manually switch all interior lights on with just one switch. To connect my new power feed I soldered the wires directly to the light cluster. I also used a small plug and socket (usually found inside a television) so that my circuit can be disconnected if I need to remove the light unit in the future. I could have used some crimp on male/female terminals or a choc block type connector, or even attached the wires directly to the bulb holder. Anyway, here is the guide: I have purposely made this project expandable and the next project is going to be to improve the lighting for the rear seat passengers. Watch this space!
  8. As most of you know, the mk7 dash has a hidden storage area under the radio. I have no idea why Ford decided not to use it, but it's not too difficult to make use of. I have seen some people fit a latching catch here, but the problem I see with this idea is that it is difficult to fit and as the door has to be pushed in to unlatch, so when the door is closed it always looks slightly open. My alternative idea is a lot easier to fit. All you need are some self adhesive magnetic pads - the type which have an A & B pad are best as they are designed to lock together accurately such as these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAGNETIC-TAPE-ADHESIVE-CRAFT-MAGNET-25MM-X-6-5MM-PADS-/360202604606?pt=UK_Crafts_Other_Crafts_EH&hash=item53ddbf903e Firstly you need to remove the door panel. This can be done by inserting a plastic trim tool into the gap and levering to release the clip. To stop the door permanently closing, simply remove the metal clip from the dash or cut the plastic pin off the door. This makes a great hiding place for iPods or portable sat navs.
  9. This guide shows how to fit the upgraded interior light with map lights and submarine lights (and all without an IDS session), The light unit I used has the part number 8a6a-13k767-bb34x1 printed on the side. The light is plug and play but to get the submarine lights working, one wire needs to be added, connected to the dash illumination circuit. Now everything can be re-assembled and tested. A scotchlok could be used instead of a T-Tap at your own risk. Personally I think they are the work of the devil and are responsible for many electrical problems and have even been known to cause vehicle fires. The T-Tap provides a much more secure connection and can be easily disconnected when no longer needed. Another product I highly recommend is a Posi-tap but these are harder to find in the UK. When all done, the submarine lights should come on when your lights are switched on and should look something like this:
  10. I solder mine. It is possible to buy connectors if your soldering skills are lacking!
  11. Hi Dan, Thanks for your kind comments. The ambient lights are wired from the interior illumination circuit so you could take power from a nearby switch (such as the ESP or climate switch) or the light switch. If you look at my submarine light guide, you will see how I wired these to the same circuit: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/35675-guide-upgrading-the-interior-light/ This wire feeds power to the LED controller so that the LEDs are on when the dash illumination is on i.e. at night! The LEDs are fed from many spurs taken from the output of the LED controller. I made several small PCBs from vero strip and used PCB header pins and sockets so that I could disconnect any LED should it need replacing or maintaining without affecting any of the other LEDs. These LED spur PCBs have around 6 sets of female headers each and are located in the centre console, front doors, A pillars and B pillars. This also makes the lighting very easy to expand as all I need to do is plug in my new LED strip to a nearby spur PCB using wired male header pins.
  12. My ambient lights are wired to the headlight light switch so they are on when my sidelights are on. They can be turned off via the remote. The courtesy and puddle lights are wired to the centre roof light. If yours is not working as it should, check your wiring and also check the light switch as the terminals can become bent and not make a secure contact. All ambient lights are LED strip cut to the required length and stuck down with 10mm double sided 3M body kit tape (the standard tape on the LED strip is no good for automotive use as the glue melts in hot climates resulting in your LEDs falling off)! LED strip and controller from ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1M-2M-3M-4M-5M-5050-Waterproof-IP65-RGB-LED-Strip-44-Keys-IR-Remote-Controller-/200942701195?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Night_Lights_Fairy_Lights&var=500172213997&hash=item2ec91e4a8b
  13. Great guide and very similar to my project - the only difference being, I used multicoloured LED strip and more of it! http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/42250-my-fiesta-mk7-interior-lighting-project-picture-heavy/
  14. I need to occasionally carry a couple of cycles around and had managed fine with a cheap strap on cycle carrier with my previous car, however the Fiesta Zetec S is a whole new ball-game with its smaller tailgate, lack of bumper lip and large roof spoiler! As I cannot justify the cost of a roof or towbar option, I decided to persevere with the old trusty Halfords high mount 3 cycle carrier, but I needed to do some modifications. Firstly as my car is Black, I only need to cough on it and it's scratched, so a lot of body protection is needed where the straps meet the car. I covered the strapping for the side hooks with some rubber anti-slip matting cut to size and held in place with insulation tape. Where the straps hook around the edge of the tailgate I cut a small section of plastic door edge protector and used some black insulation tape under the strapping: Door edge protector was also used for the top straps: The lower straps that are supposed to go under the rear of the car, I had a couple of issues with. Firstly the lower bumper is not really strong enough to have straps tightened against it, and secondly the foam pads on the bottom of the carrier frame are supposed to sit on a bumper and take most of the weight of the bikes. I was not prepared to risk this perched on the tiny bumper ledge of the Fiesta and have the whole lot come crashing down as I am travelling! So I opened the boot, and removed the 2 plastic trim fasteners holding the tailgate latch trim in place, and inserted the lower hooks into these holes. The straps were then crossed over and looped around the lower carrier frame before being pulled through the clasps very tightly. The straps are now not only pinning the carrier to the car, but also taking most of the weight of the bikes so there is no risk of damaging the bumper. Once the bikes were loaded and a final tighten of the straps, I set off, and I am happy to report I got to my destination with all straps in place and tight. I would only use this set-up occasionally so it suites me fine, but I would not recommend it for more than occasional use. The Zetec S was never designed to carry bikes!
  15. There is one controller and 1 remote - all LEDs are fed from one controller to keep everything in perfect sync (it could get a bit dristracting with a seperate remote for each light set)! The fibre cable is a chunky 2mm thick so it collects lots of IR light from the remote and passes it to the hidden receiver flawlessly. The light show was demonstrated to a select few at Ford Fair and received lots of positive comments - so thanks for that! Next year I will be back with something bigger and better...