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tunne1rat

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    191
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About tunne1rat

  • Rank
    Feet Under The Table
  • Birthday 03/03/1966

Contact Methods

  • ICQ 0
  • First Name Steve

Profile Information

  • Gender* Male
  • Ford Model Fiesta Zetec S
  • Ford Year 2010
  • UK/Ireland Location Suffolk
  • Annual Mileage 5001 to 10,000
  1. ! Guide ! Wiring The Foot-Well Lights

    I bought them over a year ago so the original link is now dead. The remote and LED controller look identical to this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1M-2M-3M-4M-5M-5050-Waterproof-IP65-RGB-LED-Strip-44-Keys-IR-Remote-Controller-/200942701195?pt=UK_Pet_Supplies_Fish&var=&hash=item2ec91e4a8b
  2. ! Guide ! Wiring The Foot-Well Lights

    My colour changing LEDs have a memory function and always come on to the last selected colour. They also have preset memory banks so that custom colours can be made and stored.
  3. I solder mine. It is possible to buy connectors if your soldering skills are lacking!
  4. Hi Dan, Thanks for your kind comments. The ambient lights are wired from the interior illumination circuit so you could take power from a nearby switch (such as the ESP or climate switch) or the light switch. If you look at my submarine light guide, you will see how I wired these to the same circuit: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/35675-guide-upgrading-the-interior-light/ This wire feeds power to the LED controller so that the LEDs are on when the dash illumination is on i.e. at night! The LEDs are fed from many spurs taken from the output of the LED controller. I made several small PCBs from vero strip and used PCB header pins and sockets so that I could disconnect any LED should it need replacing or maintaining without affecting any of the other LEDs. These LED spur PCBs have around 6 sets of female headers each and are located in the centre console, front doors, A pillars and B pillars. This also makes the lighting very easy to expand as all I need to do is plug in my new LED strip to a nearby spur PCB using wired male header pins.
  5. My ambient lights are wired to the headlight light switch so they are on when my sidelights are on. They can be turned off via the remote. The courtesy and puddle lights are wired to the centre roof light. If yours is not working as it should, check your wiring and also check the light switch as the terminals can become bent and not make a secure contact. All ambient lights are LED strip cut to the required length and stuck down with 10mm double sided 3M body kit tape (the standard tape on the LED strip is no good for automotive use as the glue melts in hot climates resulting in your LEDs falling off)! LED strip and controller from ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1M-2M-3M-4M-5M-5050-Waterproof-IP65-RGB-LED-Strip-44-Keys-IR-Remote-Controller-/200942701195?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Night_Lights_Fairy_Lights&var=500172213997&hash=item2ec91e4a8b
  6. The Ambient Lighting Installation Guide!!!!!!!!!!!

    Great guide and very similar to my project - the only difference being, I used multicoloured LED strip and more of it! http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/42250-my-fiesta-mk7-interior-lighting-project-picture-heavy/
  7. I need to occasionally carry a couple of cycles around and had managed fine with a cheap strap on cycle carrier with my previous car, however the Fiesta Zetec S is a whole new ball-game with its smaller tailgate, lack of bumper lip and large roof spoiler! As I cannot justify the cost of a roof or towbar option, I decided to persevere with the old trusty Halfords high mount 3 cycle carrier, but I needed to do some modifications. Firstly as my car is Black, I only need to cough on it and it's scratched, so a lot of body protection is needed where the straps meet the car. I covered the strapping for the side hooks with some rubber anti-slip matting cut to size and held in place with insulation tape. Where the straps hook around the edge of the tailgate I cut a small section of plastic door edge protector and used some black insulation tape under the strapping: Door edge protector was also used for the top straps: The lower straps that are supposed to go under the rear of the car, I had a couple of issues with. Firstly the lower bumper is not really strong enough to have straps tightened against it, and secondly the foam pads on the bottom of the carrier frame are supposed to sit on a bumper and take most of the weight of the bikes. I was not prepared to risk this perched on the tiny bumper ledge of the Fiesta and have the whole lot come crashing down as I am travelling! So I opened the boot, and removed the 2 plastic trim fasteners holding the tailgate latch trim in place, and inserted the lower hooks into these holes. The straps were then crossed over and looped around the lower carrier frame before being pulled through the clasps very tightly. The straps are now not only pinning the carrier to the car, but also taking most of the weight of the bikes so there is no risk of damaging the bumper. Once the bikes were loaded and a final tighten of the straps, I set off, and I am happy to report I got to my destination with all straps in place and tight. I would only use this set-up occasionally so it suites me fine, but I would not recommend it for more than occasional use. The Zetec S was never designed to carry bikes!
  8. There is one controller and 1 remote - all LEDs are fed from one controller to keep everything in perfect sync (it could get a bit dristracting with a seperate remote for each light set)! The fibre cable is a chunky 2mm thick so it collects lots of IR light from the remote and passes it to the hidden receiver flawlessly. The light show was demonstrated to a select few at Ford Fair and received lots of positive comments - so thanks for that! Next year I will be back with something bigger and better...
  9. As I needed to get new wiring to the door for the LEDs I included a feed from the footwell lights to power the projector lights. To get the wiring to the door I took the wiring through the grommet above the door hinge then into the existing door wiring through a small cut in the bottom of the loom protection rubber.
  10. Just one more job to do... hide the IR receiver. To make it easier to hide, I attached a short length of fibre-optic cable to the sensor: Then pushed it through a small hole drilled into the back of the centre console storage bin: The result is a virtually invisible receiver!
  11. Here is a short video I made to demonstrate the lighting effects:
  12. Yes most DIY, automotive and electronic hobby stores have them. You don't need to spend a fortune either - something like this will be fine: http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/electrical/circuit-protection-consumer-units/circuit-testers/digital_multimeter/B-and-Q-MS8233A-Digital-Multimeter-12758717?skuId=13269423
  13. Hi Brigante There is not much that can go wrong so check your work and eliminate every step one at a time. It is important to have a multimeter that can read volts and ohms. If you haven't got one, go buy one now! Starting at the light unit, set the multimeter to read volts and connect the black lead to a good earth point (such as the metal cigar lighter casing) and the red lead to your new wire. Switch on your sidelights and check that the multimeter reads 12v (or close to it). If it does, the problem is with your new light unit. If it does not, the problem is with your wiring. I notice like most people you use scotchloks. I am not a fan of these. They were originally designed to be used as a temporary connector for the telecoms industry and despite what many people beleive are not suitable for automotive applications - especially where high currents are involved as they have been known to cause fires. There are safer alternatives such as the Posi-tap or T-Tap.
  14. ! Guide ! Fitting A 12V Socket In The Boot Mk7

    I have a device similar to this hard-wired: http://www.force4.co.uk/732/Waeco-Battery-Saver.html
  15. I finally found some time to work on this project again, so now the front footwells are complete: and the rear seat side pockets: I will probably leave it there for now!