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Hutchy70

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    27
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Hutchy70

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 11/30/1941

Contact Methods

  • Skype
    hutchy3011
  • First Name
    Bob

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Mondeo (06) 2Ltr.TDCi Hatchback
  • Ford Year
    2006
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Wiltshire
  • Annual Mileage
    0 to 5000

Previous Fields

  • Location
    Marlborough
  1. Hi, and many thanks for your input. The thing is I get no clunk sound as if it's trying to engage the bendix also there is no battery drain (lights dim) when I turn the key. However to follow through on your thoughts of it being the starter motor, I connected a cable to the starter motor positive and put a meter across that and ground whilst someone tried to start the car. and found there was no supply getting to the starter. So I still suspect it's a relay/contactor problem intermittently failing to pull in, also when I had my old battery in and it went flat, the dials used to spin right round and back again, also my computer settings would be reset to default. That does not happen now, the new battery has enough full power to take the cranking current repeatedly if needed. However, thank you so much for your reply, every suggestion is much appreciated and worth investigating My very best regards, Bob.
  2. Hi and thanks for your response. I'm sure the battery in my key is fine as I can lock and unlock the car from 25 yards away. However I tried using my spare key in case it was something strange but I still get the same symptoms. This start fault is intermittent, so I don't think it's a key problem. Anyway, very many thanks for your help, every suggestion helps eliminate possibilities. Best regards, Bob.
  3. Hi Everyone, Hope somebody can come up with a possible solution to this fault. I have a 2006 2.0L TDCi Diesel Hatch (6 speed manual). The Fault Sometimes when I turn the key to start the car I get no response at all (just silence). I wait for the self checks to complete and the lights to go out and then attempt to start, but nothing happens not even the dials sweep round or the lights dim, there is no click as if it was trying to turn the starter motor. sometimes I can do this 4 or 5 times before it starts. This only happens intermittently, most times it starts first time. The battery is fully charged and the terminals are clean and tightly secured so no problem from that. It's as if a relay is not pulling in (but which one), or could it be an earth fault ? It doesn't matter whether the engine is hot or cold or what the weather is like. Any help you can give would be greatly appreciated as it's really starting to annoy me
  4. Very many thanks again for all your help, 5 star. Cheers, Bob.
  5. Hi there I was hoping to get one more reply from you before we signed off completely. I hope I haven't offended you in some way. I would like to thank you for all the advice you gave me over the past weeks, it is really appreciated. Very many thanks, Bob.
  6. Well, finally it's good news. The clutch is now working but I still think it needs a bit more bleeding, also I would be much more confident if I could get a replacement bleed screw. However, I think I could mark this post as 'solved' but before I do can you confirm for me what colour the 'clutch pedal position sensor' is. I removed two from the pedals, one red and one green and I think the clutch pedal one is the green one. Stupidly I forgot to make a note when I first removed them and I've had them off so long I have forgot which way round they go. The red one is on the same loom as the brake light switch. So I believe the green one belongs to the clutch, would you agree ? Cheers, Bob.
  7. Hi again, :) Well, today I did some back tracking from the T-piece and undid the gland further back along the pipe and found that the fluid was not even reaching that point. Now it is pointing back to the master cylinder as fluid was getting to it but non coming out on the high pressure side. So it would appear that even though the pedal was up, the piston must be jammed closed resulting in no flow. Having discovered this I obtained another master cylinder and will be fitting it tomorrow, i will let you know the results. I have a question regarding fitting this replacement; what is the best sequence of assembly, should I bolt the Master in place first with the white plastic retaining clip that goes into the pedal fitted to the push rod and then fit the pedal after. The last time I did it I tried to fit the whole assembly as one and I had a hell of a job getting the fixing bolts in . As a result I might have damaged it causing me all this grief. One more thing, what type of bleed screw is it that fits in the T-piece. It is all plastic with a little rubber insert at the end. The one in a 5 speed model is a standard steel one with a pointed end, which I don't think will do the job. Many thanks for your help, Bob.
  8. Thanks for your prompt reply. How do I unclip it, I can't feel anything underneath where it goes into the slave cylinder. do you mean removing the T-piece or uncoupling the pipe from where it enters the T-piece. Cheers, Bob.
  9. Hello again, Bad weather stopped play for a while but now I'm back to my problems again. I don't know what else to do but I still can not get any fluid flow through to the slave bleed nipple. The pedal is up and fluid must be flowing through the master cylinder because that was where the high pressure gland was leaking from. As previously advised, I have pumped the pedal until I was blue in the face but still no flow and there's no pressure under the pedal yet. It's as if there is a blockage or serious air lock stopping it coming through to the slave cylinder even with the bleed screw completely removed, and even with pressure behind it. I have included a photo here showing the bleed nipple assembly as there appears to be a different one shown in the Haynes manual. Could some crud have blocked this T-piece assembly, and if so how can I clear it. I am completely stumped now, so any help on what steps I can take next to get over this would be greatly appreciated. Thank you my friend for all your help so far :) , Cheers Bob.
  10. OK thanks, Just one final question then, I have finally got it to seal now with no more leaks. Now I'm having trouble bleeding the system. There is a trickle coming from the bleed nipple but still no pressure under the pedal. I have pumped about a 1/4 litre through but still no clutch action. I am nearly there now, so is it just a case of keep bleeding, (I can't see any air bubbles coming out which I thought would have been quite a few) Any ideas please, Cheers my friend Bob.
  11. Hi friend, Sorry to be a pain but I'm still not clear on your comment, "The seal fits over the pipe and the top of the plastic bit so that the end of the pipe is flush with the seal", If I don't push the pipe right through it it doesn't reach the plastic bit. The first time I fitted the seal I just placed it on the end of the pipe and pushed the pipe in as far as I could but it wouldn't seal properly. So after your reply I pushed the seal on so the pipe protruded about a 1/4 inch this gave a better seal but it was still weeping. The problem seemed to be that I couldn't push the pipe in all the way due to the seal now showing a slight bulge at the end which I believe was stopping it going into it's socket all the way. So I'm a bit stumped by not understanding what you mean by being flush with the end of the pipe. Would it be better if I pushed the seal all the way in on it's own, then try to push the pipe into it in situ ? The only thing is that is similar to the way I first put it in just placing it on the end of the pipe but it leaked a lot. I know that when I first tried to remove the pipe from the old MC, I had a hell of a job pulling it out (I had released the spring clip first by the way). Unfortunately when I pulled the pipe out to enable removal of the MC, the top-hat seal stayed inside so I don't know it's real position on the pipe. So to summarise; Should the pipe protrude through the top-hat seal or remain inside it ?Would it be better to push the seal home first all the way, then push the pipe in after ?​Sorry to be such a dumbo about this but a simple thing becomes very complicated when your unfamiliar with it. Thank you very, very much for your help and patience. Best regards, Bob.
  12. UPDATE; I think I found the culprit, there has been a leak from where the high pressure pipe fits into the MC and secured by a spring clip. Apparently this had been leaking unseen down in-between the bulkhead and the sound muffling material and dripping out under the car. Although I thought I had secured the pipe in place with the spring clip apparently the little rubber top hat type grommet/seal that fits on the end of the pipe had not seated properly. My query is that should this top hat type grommet just fit on the end of the pipe or should the pipe come right through it. I hope that makes sense to you. Unfortunately there is no way of knowing as it was left stuck inside the old MC when I removed it. If I can get this to seal properly I think my problem should be resolved. I am pretty sure now it is not going into the Vacuum Servo. Cheers, Bob.
  13. Hi again, OK, the high pressure pipe is the lower one from the MC which goes directly to the SC. The higher connection is the low pressure pipe from the reservoir to the MC. (viewing from engine compartment). However, I think I found the culprit, there has been a leak from where the high pressure pipe fits into the MC and secured by a spring clip. Apparently this had been leaking unseen down in-between the bulkhead and the sound muffling material and dripping out under the car. Although I thought I had secured the pipe in place with the spring clip apparently the little rubber top hat type grommet/seal that fits on the end of the pipe had not seated properly. My query is that should this top hat type grommet just fit on the end of the pipe or should the pipe come right through it. I hope that makes sense to you. Unfortunately there is no way of knowing as it was left stuck inside the old MC when I removed it. If I can get this to seal properly I think my problem should be resolved. I am pretty sure now it is not going into the Vacuum Servo. Cheers, Bob.
  14. Hi again, and many thanks for your input.. When I removed the high pressure pipe from the old MC I found later that it had left that top hat seal still inside. I managed to hook it out and fitted it onto the pipe before inserting it but there is still a slight drip there so I guess it's not in properly. More problems though, This morning I checked under the car for signs of leaks, there was some drips but nothing serious. However, when I checked the reservoir it had drained completely. This is new, never happened before up to changing the Master Cylinder which shows no leaks except for a slight leak (just a drip) from where the high pressure pipe connects to it. My thoughts are that I might have blown a seal in the Vacuum Servo behind the reservoir and the fluid is disappearing into there. I am pretty sure it's not going into the Bell housing as no fluid seems to be even reaching the Slave Cylinder. What are your thoughts please.
  15. Hi again, Which pipe do you mean I should remove from the MC to check for fluid. The low pressure pipe would be direct from the reservoir, do you mean that one ? This morning I checked under the car for signs of leaks, there was some drips but nothing serious. However, when I checked the reservoir it had drained completely. This is new, never happened before up to changing the Master Cylinder which shows no leaks except for a slight leak (just a drip) from where the high pressure pipe connects to it. My thoughts are that I might have blown a seal in the Vacuum Servo behind the reservoir and the fluid is disappearing into there. I am pretty sure it's not going into the Bell housing as no fluid seems to be even reaching the Slave Cylinder. What are your thoughts please.