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raskL

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    83
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About raskL

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    phil

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Focus
  • Ford Year
    2007
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Lancashire
  • Annual Mileage
    10,001 to 15,000
  • Interests
    General Automotive
    Motorsport & Racing
    Car Modification
    Computers & Electronics
    Sports & Leisure

Recent Profile Visitors

3,251 profile views
  1. I've used loads of the stuff mate and for good paintwork the best I can find on a budget is autoglym super resin polish then g3 resin wax, if your after spending a bit more same polish but basically the best swissVax wax you can afford
  2. Hi welcome mate, I can't personally see why a gear change from 2nd to third would cause this maybe try a little drive going 1st 2nd 4th see if it still happens. If not can you give more details ?
  3. If you get your tyres done by a major garage they will put in the factory recommended settings sometimes they need tweaking slightly for extra weight (big sound system in boot?) if not as tomo said pressures. After that all the wheel values need checking
  4. Yep, the way your describing things tho mate could just be a nackered cell in battery maybe worth trying a new one
  5. true, but by getting a standard pre written map would make the most of his current setup and then adding other parts wouldnt change much realy as the updated software is no longer looking for efficiency, and if you go to someone like superchips or dream science (this would be my advice) then they have about 4 maps wich are then free of charge after that, for instance you just get the standard remap then if you replaced exhaust + downpipe + air filter + intercooler you can get a stage 2 map and so on.
  6. WIGIN ! :) wn2
  7. dont mean to sound sarcastic here but probably a better bet to run diagnostics before you buy :P
  8. yeah, the first thing you should do is to remap the ecu, theres loads of decent places out there or you can buy your own console from someone like superchips, youll get instant power and torque gains and then you can do custom mods from there, if you just put a big exhaust on and upgrade the intercooler and intake you probably wont notice any difference, the point is that these engines are still tuned to get fuel effieciency and to run on lower grade fuels than we have in the uk, so increasing airflow and stuff can actually make the engine back of slightly the ecu is constantly monitoring everything from air / fuel mix right down to emisions and tempratures so if airflow is increased, the engine doesnt need quite as rich of a mixture of petrol etc etc... the point is in my opinion remap and then go from there :D
  9. the best and cheapest solution is to go down to halfords take your colour code in should be inside drivers door on a sticker, theyll mix you some paint in a little pot and give you some laquer. get a realy small art style paint brush and put tiny amounts in the scratches till its about level , you wont get this perfect but dont worry. leave it for a good 3 - 4 hours. get some medium grade polish like t-cut or scratch restore, polish it with finger on a cloth and concentrate just on the small area close to the scratch, when it looks blended in put a small amount of laquer on (need a steady hand for this as it can look a bit crappy if you get it over existing good paintwork) then go over whole car or area with a light polish, i recomend g3 or autoglym resin polish. thats the best finish you'll probably get by hand.
  10. yeah i also have the 1.8 diesel in my eyes who cares about the noise? youve bought a diesel they all sound crap :D , you cant hear it in the cabbin with the stereo on, its a bulletproof engine had mine since 2007 its done around 95k only had to replace a rubber hose :). pitmonster: best diesel engine ive driven has gotta be the jtdm 170 in the new alpha giulietta for all around performance and economy. tried the whole bmw range inc 320 330 335 , the bmw's are quick and everything but as soon as you put your toe down you see those mpgs dropping to 4 and 5 hah its painfull
  11. I have a bit of a thing with tesco fuel i cant conclusivley prove it but heres what evidence i have so far : just lately (this will be the fifth french car comming in with same problem) a customer brought in a pug 206 gti 180 and said the antipollution light keeps comming on, we went through everything as usual couldnt find anything apart from a slightly over dirty fuel filter for the mileage. changed it gave the engine a thorough clean drained existing fuel and went and put £10 of shell v power in, took it for a 15 mile test drive, everything was fine no problems. so signed it off and customer was happy. 3 days later came back with same problem this time we checked everything from fuel system to sensors nothing doing, anyway one of the rac guys came in with a car and we had a chat, he said "I bet you its that crappy tesco petrol, my mates a tanker delivery driver and they use the worst grade posible". so i phone the customer back and after a good chat he thinks this could have been happening after filling up at tesco alot lately, and the light comming on seems to be about the same time, so 3 days later he calls back in and says its never happened since ive been filling up at morrisons :D. like i say this is the 5th or 6th time we had this problem and couldnt resolve it, i cant say anything about the diesel, but maybe something to think about.
  12. I have more or less the same one on my 1.8 tdci and ive replaced it with a pipercross cone, this is all contained like standard inside the factory air box. its more for performance as i have a remap and tbh the intake sound on a diesel doesnt sound that good. in theory you could take the top of the airbox and leave the filter in aslong as its properly secured the only point of the filter is to stop particles being sucked in, the factory airbox is designed to quite down the intake along with other things, and tbh in my experiance there isnt much noise difference between aftermarket filters, you'll only hear the intake sound properly under medium to hard acceleration. If you have the money the full induction kit will be best and as artscot says a heat shield of some sort would help.
  13. depending on the price range and counting out performance as you just want noise ? basically if you look under the bonnet, theres a big sort of rectangular black box with a big pipe comming from the front grill 'cold air feed' inside there is your air filter, this box also works as sound proofing you can remove this box and replace it with a universal performance filter from somewhere like halfords. basically screw that to the pipe where the box would be, and hey presto you'll have a throaty intake noise, but these are known for things like 'heatsoak' i.e dragging in warm air from the egine bay wich is not great for performance, the colder the air the more dense it is thus better explosion, for performance and noise you should get a full intake system from someone like pipercross. hope that helps mate :)
  14. should be on top of the gearbox mate at the back
  15. it could also be the type of diagnostic equipment used some cause similair errors, especially the cheap generic ones