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Makefish

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    11
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Makefish

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday October 22

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Steve

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Focus Estate 2.0 TDCI
  • Ford Year
    2012
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Hampshire
  • Annual Mileage
    20,001 to 25,000
  1. Nice choice of parts there Hassen .... although springs and bars are for MkII not the MkIII? Would personally go for the remap first as the standard chassis setup can easily handle the power upgrade.
  2. I don't know where you get your rempas done but you've been mugged mate ...... I have a mapped 2.0 Diesel and get no where near 200Ps!
  3. The best option is undoubtedly to go for a remap, Superchips Bluefin is one I'd give serious consideration to.
  4. I've just completed a 2,400 mile trip to northern Spain and back for our hols too and it didn't miss a beat, exceptional refinement made the journey a pleasure ....... albeit tiring!
  5. Been lurking and posted on a couple of threads but felt it time to introduce myself :) Have been a huge fan of Skoda and in particular the Octavia vRS (I've owned four!) but cars from my distant past have included a number of Fords including the following: my first Ford, a MkII Escort 1.3 Ghia parked in front of what was my dads NEW Cortina MkV!! ...... and when times were tough this fifty quid runabout kept me mobile ... I am now fortunate enough to have a new Focus Titanium Estate sat on the driveway but sadly no pics of it yet but if you're interested I'll post one up. Anyway FOC looks to be a friendly enough place so ..... Hi :)
  6. Oh you'll definitely notice a difference for the better :) ........ I've had my last 4 cars remapped by either REVO on 2 Skoda Octavia's and Superchips Bluefin on my current Focus and a Saab 9-3, the best money you can spend upping the power and torque characteristics especially on turbo diesels no matter how big the engine capacity.
  7. Bluefin all the way for me, been very impressed with it .... it's also on offer till the end of the month for £320 so get the credit card out ;)
  8. http://www.jkm.org.uk/performance/index.htm
  9. Try JKM in Portsmouth, they are first class in all things tuning although they rend to specialize in VAG vehicles I'm sure they will point you in the right direction. They have just sorted me out with a Bluefin from Superchips which is v.good. Try here .... www.superchips.co.uk
  10. As there is no info on the estate in the handbook I've modified first post into a 'How To'.
  11. I cannot stand the 'fried egg' look of orange bulbs and have changed to clear on every new car I get, I've managed to do the fronts OK but the rears are not shown in the handbook and are proving to be a bit more tricky and was wondering if anyone has successfully gone about accessing the rear light cluster and could give me a mini 'how to'. FYI Car is a 2.0 Tdci Titanium Estate MY12. Edit: Well I decided to have a go at this myself and you'd think changing a light bulb would be a simple process however, it took two people and a lot of cursing before the job was finally done. As a result I thought I'd change the thread into a 'How To', hopefully this might help a few avoid a few problems when attempting it themselves! 1. I hate 'fried egg' look indicators so this is what we are trying to get at but of course there are a multitude of other bulbs in here that you may want to get at! 2. Finding the plastic screw fixings is the first task, there are two for each cluster situated inside the rear cubby holes in the boot. 3. What you are trying to get to are these plastic screws, they are relatively easy to find but very awkward to get a decent grip unless you have small hands! (apologies for the poor quality of these pics) 4. Now that you've found them the fun starts. These have obviously been tightened at the factory and plastic against metal seems to lock them in place with no obvious way of loosening them. In the end I got my son to push the light from the outside while I was trying to free them on the inside, this seemed to work as this external pressure helped release the fixings but only after the help of a few tools. OK so the key didn't work and the small flat headed screw driver was not much use either but if you can find the room and get some grips around it this does help with leverage. Some bright spark is going to tell me that there is a special tool for this exercise but I ain't got it! Warning: Go careful with any pressure you put on the light cluster, the last thing you want is a bill to replace the whole thing! 5. These are the little bleeders you're trying to remove .. 6. Now that these fixing have been removed you now have to carefully prise the cluster away from the body work. There are two addition press fit type lugs that 'pop' into the bodywork so gently prise around the edges until they are free. 7. You should have in your hand one (undamaged!) rear light cluster. You're now free to change what you wish but in my case it was to get rid of the orange indicator bulbs. For safety you may want to disconnect the wiring loom but I did not bother. 8. Now go through the process in reverse to put it all back again. Tip: You may want to add a washer or smear a dab of 3 in 1 to make it easier the next time round. Finally the obligatory disclaimer. I will not be held responsible for any breakages or damage caused by others as a result of following this guide. Hope this helps.
  12. Welcome to the Ford forums Makefish :)