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Falcon II

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    9
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About Falcon II

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Ford Model
    Focus, Mondeo
  1. Okay the car even though it started this morning after glowing the plugs for five seconds i turned the engine off after 10 minutes or so. Update went out to start it same problem glow plug flashing tryed the same thing again and now it wont start even with the plugs heated up. Checked the plugs the other day, I took two new ones out and tested them and one old one out and tested that that was faulty so swapped it for a new one. number two glow plug has been changed by a vauxhall fitter and was new, it was cross threaded into the head and wont come out so checked the resistance, it is at 4 ohms the same as all the others. I am seriously getting hacked off the car runs fine for three days then bang nothing and by the looks of it there is a common fault with the ford diesel engines. but every listing i have read is eather not related as the car cuts out after time or the fault has been fixed then goes wrong again after a few more days. Some ford guy must have some answer as to why fords are no longer good as diesels.
  2. Thought considering i have sorted the flat battery issue i would try and solve the last bit. and have re listed to change the heading. The car: 51 plate Mk3 Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDDI, Original fault now sorted, Battery draining over night. bad relay. See other post http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/33214-ford-mondeo-51-plate-tddi-mk3-battery-draining-relay-7-interior-very-hot/ New Problem Well battery not going flat anymore as such. been driving it for three days now. this morning cranking fine, glow plug light was on for a very short time then flashed after i started to turn the engine over. checked under the bonnet nice 12.4 volts across the battery after two attempts at starting and being a hot day I used the full open option. Thought it might be flat again but turning the engine over with full force, connected the heavy duty booster pack and still nothing. however the voltage dropped to just under 12 volts when the glow plugs were running. as soon as the clicked off it was back to 12.3. i tested with the booster on and it was a little higher like 12.5 dropping to 12.1 12.2 still the same turning force By the way my booster pack is a 069 battery that is used for jumping all the time and it has just been on a charge yesterday with 4AWG arctic gold cable High ampage cable. Checked the voltage at the glow plugs, and there only showing 10 volts climbing to about 10.8 volts then cutting after the normal time, there staying on after the engine is being cranked. so connected the booster to the glow plugs and engine earth and took it off after around 4-6 seconds eg got them hot, Ran round and turned the key and brum it started, no problems no issues, There is one other issue that may be related its holding back just a little if you try to drive idling at 3000 rpm, its fine below and above this, i think this may be the engine temperature sensor from other posts but have not yet been able to check this. Is there a common fault with this curcuit or a faulty resister or is it a diode. please advise. By the way had it on the new snap-on solus pro and the only faults were the dashboard fault of low battery this has been cleared and has not come back. Please help me find this fault two weeks now.
  3. Please look at http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/33271-tddi-mondeo-mk3-not-starting-glow-plug-light-flashing-there-must-be-an-answer/ Well battery not going flat anymore as such. One of the many relays behind the glove box. Just went down to the scrap yard and grabbed the lot. been driving it for three days now. this morning cranking fine, glow plug light was on for a very short time then flashed after i started to turn the key. checked under the bonnet nice 12.4 volts across the battery thought it might be flat again but turning the car so, connected the heavy duty booster pack and still nothing. however the voltage dropped to just under 12 volts when the glow plugs were running. as soon as the clicked off it was back to 12.3. i tested with the booster on and it was a little higher like 12.5 dropping to 12.1 12.2 By the way my booster pack is a 069 battery that is used for jumping all the time with 4AWG arctic gold cable High ampage cable. checked the voltage at the glow plugs, and there only showing 10 volts climbing to about 10.8 volts then cutting after the normal time, there staying on after the engine starts which is normal i beleve. so connected the booster to the glow plugs and engine earth and took it off after around 4-6 seconds eg got them hot, Ran round and turned the key and brum it started, no problems no issues, Have started a new topic for this please dont post in this one. BTW battery drain was down to one of the many relays, I changed all the relays behind the dash and the drain is now down to 100 mA dropping off after a long while to 10 mA Is there a common fault with this curcuit or a faulty resister or is it a diode. please advise.
  4. Hi got a car in, Relay 7 is on 24 hours, the relay is the ignition Auxiliary Circuits Relay, Its using a small amount around 150mA - 300mA all night after a couple of days the battery is dead. 1 New Battery already fitted, tested it last night when i had a power cut with my twin High beam torches (twin car spot lights off a rally car) on for five hours battery dropped to 12.1Volts. it had just come off charge, so started at 13. somthing volts, needed a charge by the time the power was back on. 2 Take out fuse 2 and it turns off, 3 Relay 7 is red hot, so have changed it for a new one, still staying on with car locked and open. 4 Voltage when running 14.3 Volts 14.1 Volts with high beams and stuff on. Aultanator giving out good Amperage and voltage. Battery at 12.3 volts after it has been standing for a while. can anyone tell me if this relay the top right relay on the interior fuse box should be on even when the car is locked and the key is out of the car. Heres the story, Customer has brought the car to me, said it has a fuel pump problem as it wont start, hes just bought a new battery etc, I charged the battery with my 16amp charger and used my good battery from my mondeo, my battery went flat while trying to turn it over, found that some idiot had crossed the glow plugs when he replaced three, so changed the other one and rethreaded the holes then inserted the plugs. Car started... thought it was all sorted but she said it was intermitant so keep the car for the week to see if it did it again. car was fine for two days started it a few times a day, drove it round all day yesterday, took the kids to school etc. this morning Battery dead, not starting sot even turning over, I changed the battery and it started no problem. Tested drain on the battery with a amp meter, and its drawing 200mA not much, locked the car and 800mA, then it droped to 150-160mA, thats all it must have a drain somewhere, Checked all the relays and relay 7 it red hot, swapped it for a relay out of my petrol car, Same part number, that relay clicked and stayed on, Now auto data states the relay has a 12 power supply direct from the battery through fuse 7. I took fuse 7 out and the relay is still on, take out fuse 2 and it goes off, sorry to shout but does ANYONE have a clue....... I am baffeled,
  5. Hi it just makes a louder diesel engine noise. hard to describe it sounds like a old endura de engine then suddenly sounds like a normal TDCI. eg Normal but louder the noise level halfs after five miles or so. My mate noticed the noise of the engine and thought it was a little loud when he was brining it home but he noticed a sudden lack of noise and pulled me over to say there's something wrong with the engine its gone quiet. just suddenly while we were a the lights waiting to pull away. We washed to car quickly just to get rid of the MOT centre dirt then started it again and it was noisy again. There is a little rattle comming from the aircon pump but this is just the clutch needing a bit of tlc.
  6. Its about £100 for a TDCI injector recondition, if you can convince them to do it cash like i did. around £120 + VAT normally. Normally i would say dont get some from a scrappy they normally dont work. you can put the reconditioned injector back in without recoding it into the ecu but the car may run a little rough. anyone with half decent diagnostics will do the recoding for about £25. The code on the injector is more to do with fuel patterns and quantity not immobiliser related. I would recommend buying the injector removal tool "21 mm socket long with cut out for spanner" and searching locally for an injector cleaning company I use just diesels in newcastle however there are local ones all over. Dont run the engine too long with a over fuel it will cause hydrolic pressure in the piston and could damage valves head gasket piston or mean a complete new engine.
  7. Hi I have just sorted out a injector problem on a car my friend bought. it had no MOT or tax and needed 3 injectors rebuilding and one just needed a service thank you Just Diesels in newcastle for helping with that. however we have now MOTed and taxed the car and the engine is quite loud for about 5 miles then it is quieter about the volume you would expect from a diesel mondeo. this car is the 2003 03 115bhp TDCI engine, with air con, fuel pump is fine no metal in the fuel changed the fuel filter. anyone know if there is a part that would make the whole engine louder when its just started. It seems to not be temperature related as it happens when the car has stopped at the shops for five mins. then about five miles down the road the noise stops. Thanks in advance for any help.
  8. Hiya... Can find any tensioner for the power steering or A/C water pump alternator fan belts. Are the those silly ones that stretch onto the bottom pulley. If so is there a way of removing the nearly new ones so i can change the alternator its bearings have gone. thanks, Peter
  9. Hi all Im Back got another mondeo First my 3 gear is crunching eg the sync has gone. I have just scrapped a Mondeo estate with what looks like the same gear box. My car is the DOHC 2.0 on a X Mark 2 the scrapped car was a endura DI Diesel Mark 2 1998 the gear boxes look the same but i dont want to rip the subframe down and take the gearbox out until i know if the spare gear box i have is correct for the car. is there any way of checking from the labels is there the same. The Gear boxes both have "v/1 zt-7f096-da" on the bell housing the one in the car has a sticker with "YS7R-7002-AB" Then "8A23 03 000 A" Then "1G A 0G3 000248" the one out of the car has "97ZT DA" Then "FOG 7F01 B" the F might be a P. Any ideas would be helpful thanks in advance Peter ------------------------------------------------ Next problem is my battery when flat when working on the car for 3 days its a god battery just left the boot open during the time and all the sat nav stuff plugged into the dash lol. however the trip computer wont show miles left all the other stuffs working just the miles left to empty shows 3 lines. I dont have a manual can you help