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Budding Enthusiast
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About ForTim

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    Settling In Well

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  • Gender*
  • Ford Model
    Focus 1,8 TDCI Ghia
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
  • Annual Mileage
    0 to 5000

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  1. OK, I think it's clear now. You may wish to update the PDF on EGR repair, to separate with numbers or sections, to avoid confusion. When I read "T h e q u a d r a n t g e a r h a s a r e t u r n s p r i n g " I didn't realize you are in the next section. And I spent some time thinking first how to split the connector and then how to remove it's left part. It's all important for amateurs. Is this simple testing method OK? I'm sorry I didn't do it. You seem to test all at once with this. Praca silniczka EGR S-max 1.8TDCi And you may keep that link in signature, like simcor. THANK YOU Tdci-Peter.
  2. OK, I wanted to split posts in order to make it clear, and Peter replied in the meantime. I was confused because of this: I mixed that with valve in the manifold that moved freely but without spring, like in video: How to check EGR Valve on a Euro 4 engine in a Ford Focus or Transit Connect Peter explained that "The quadrant gear return spring is in the actuator section that you have removed" so OK, it's a relief. thank you very much.
  3. First to say that I opened the EGR, without removing the plastic panels. Key point was to remove the connector, once bolt was unscrewed (thanks Peter!). So i'ts either panels or connector, no need for both. Just Torx with extension. Just one more thing: to remove the left side of the connector and slide it to the left, I used screwdriver from behind, direction like an arrow on image (but below front cable), between connector hub and support plate. I couldn't loose it from below with my hand. It wasn't really dirty, just a few black spots.
  4. When I saw YT video "Czysczenie sterownika zaworu EGR // FORD FOCUS MK2 1.8 TDCI 10R" it looked so dirty and clogged, so I decided to open it and see for myself. But mine (actuator) was nowhere so dirty, just a few black spots that I cleaned.
  5. Thanks. I can try to remove the plastic panels as you did. You also wrote: "It may be useful to release the large electrical connector near the EGR, and maybe a hose support clamp behind it, for better access." I guess it's the one I marked with "?" on image. If I could release that one, they might be no need to remove the panels. I'd use the Torx with extension as you did. But I tried and didn't see how. That's why I asked "Can it be split or moved aside? How?" Any help?
  6. How do we take off EGR part to clean it in Mk2 1,8 TDCI? I can't figure out how to take off 4th bolt, as on image. Is there some technique or tool? What's this cable hub on the right? Seems like it's the obstacle for screwdriver. Can it be split or moved aside? How? It seems cleaning should be done from time to time. When I saw YT video "Czysczenie sterownika zaworu EGR // FORD FOCUS MK2 1.8 TDCI 10R", I opted for that, before using some decarb sprays. I would really like to know how it looks inside and whether this kind of cleaning will erase P0490. I tried to see in Haynes, but it didn't help me. It mentions removing wipers and windscreen cowl panel, but seems like it's done for complete EGR removeal. Sorry for asking in separate topic, but it's not noticed in
  7. Terraclean is, as far as I can see, a service, not a product, and it's not available in my place. So I'd rather clean EGR. I'm eager to see if mine is really as dirty as on video above. Looking around, there are some interesting, someone will say strange ideas: Revive Turbo and Engine Cleaner How to Decarbonise your Engine with Tap Water
  8. I would opt for "taking off EGR and cleaning" but I don't know how to remove it, there's a bolt behind that's not accessible. Is taking off also scuttle panel the only option?
  9. Any follow up? Is this fixed or caused some other troubles? Here is a new idea, intaking this additive directly after the fuel filter. LIQUI MOLY Diesel Purge (#5170) I don't know if this is possible with Ford cables. And how you know when when this bottle is used up to stop the engine.
  10. Thanks for posting. Seems like there are more options for EGR problem: - spraying directly into turbine whre 90 deg pipe goes in, without engine running (like done here) - spraying directly into air take with engine running (as can be found on most videos and instructions, like with BlueTech Diesel Applicaiton Spray or Bardahl EH Kit) - taking off EGR and cleaning (as on YT video "Czysczenie sterownika zaworu EGR // FORD FOCUS MK2 1.8 TDCI 10R", "offline" Valvoline EGR Cleaner is used like this) - adding fuel additives in fuel tank (as discussed here on "fuel additives (turbo cleaner)" topic) - intaking from some diesel purge bottle directly after the fuel filter. I can't say which one works best. Taking off and cleaning looks reasonable. I hope yours method, which is an easy one, doesn't make some other damage. But, other instructions require engine working at around 2.500 rpm, so it's unusual to do this with engine off.
  11. Where exactly is that turbo pressure solenoid? Something I found: I had this (unexpected) problem with (vacuum?) hose, probably not related, but just an idea what can go wrong.
  12. (In addition to P0490) my turbo stopped working last night. I noticed the hose? on the picture is cut. What is it called? I hope it can be bought and changed, I couldn't find it on-line. Ford was able to order it only in 20 days, due to holidays (for 36 euros) so I didn't order. I simply pulled the cut piece out (maybe 2,5 cm) and pushed the available part of hose? in the pipe? (maybe 1,5 cm). I hope at least P0238 (another fault I got on Torque) will be cleared, if this was the reason. I can feel turbo's working again. EDIT: Finally I replaced this hose with 20 cm of standard 5 mm hose (I found it in Hansa Flex store).
  13. More info: After I cleared error faults, "P0490 Powertrain" repeated which should be "Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) "A" Control Circuit High". Could this P0490 EGR error (malfunctioning?) be the cause temp. gauge is low or vice-versa? I had an accident with the engine, it fell down on right side (left looking from the front) due to broken bolt, other was unscrewed. As seen on picture, I have intercooler pipes twisted. Can this be a problem?
  14. I used Torque app and standard OBD (not Ford) to list fault codes. First I got 3: P0490, P0120, P1622. I noticed coolant temperature was low, 62c. I was driving more yesterday and coolant temperature, as shown on Torque, was first 60c, but later 80c, even at some moments 90c, when driving in lower gear. Outside temperature was 0 degrees. In the evening, coolant temperature was 75c, and outside was - 5c. It takes maybe 8 kilometres to get gauge up, and never totally upright, always somewhat left (for all temperatures 75c-90c). What are the "normal coolant temperatures"? Haynes just uses the term, I didn't see an explanation. What are normal time or kilometers needed to get working temperature with such low outside temperatures? EDIT. With more testing: Coolant temp. finally rises to 90c, albeit slow, after 45 minutes of driving, maybe because it's cold. I even checked thermostat, it's closed in the beginning and when it opens, it's probably as specified, thermostat opens at 88c.
  15. Thanks. Sorry, could you please help some more: 'gasket' is a rubber 3-4 cm in diameter that connects lower part of housing to the engine? Makes sense to replace. Good if it comes with thermostat. What's between lower and upper part of existing housing? Also gasket, some seal? Can it be bought and replaced? When thermostat only is replaced, do we need to split lower and upper part of housing? I don't know how to change it otherwise. (I'm asking because coolant doesn't seem to leak now, maybe red marks are from before).