ForTim

Budding Enthusiast
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    43
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About ForTim

  • Rank
    Settling In Well
  • Birthday

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Focus 1,8 TDCI Ghia
  • Ford Year
    2007
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Other/NonUK
  • Annual Mileage
    0 to 5000

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  1. Any follow up? Is this fixed or caused some other troubles? Here is a new idea, intaking this additive directly after the fuel filter. LIQUI MOLY Diesel Purge (#5170) I don't know if this is possible with Ford cables. And how you know when when this bottle is used up to stop the engine.
  2. Thanks for posting. Seems like there are more options for EGR problem: - spraying directly into turbine whre 90 deg pipe goes in, without engine running (like done here) - spraying directly into air take with engine running (as can be found on most videos and instructions, like with BlueTech Diesel Applicaiton Spray or Bardahl EH Kit) - taking off EGR and cleaning (as on YT video "Czysczenie sterownika zaworu EGR // FORD FOCUS MK2 1.8 TDCI 10R", "offline" Valvoline EGR Cleaner is used like this) - adding fuel additives in fuel tank (as discussed here on "fuel additives (turbo cleaner)" topic) - intaking from some diesel purge bottle directly after the fuel filter. I can't say which one works best. Taking off and cleaning looks reasonable. I hope yours method, which is an easy one, doesn't make some other damage. But, other instructions require engine working at around 2.500 rpm, so it's unusual to do this with engine off.
  3. Where exactly is that turbo pressure solenoid? Something I found: http://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=880 I had this (unexpected) problem with (vacuum?) hose, probably not related, but just an idea what can go wrong.
  4. (In addition to P0490) my turbo stopped working last night. I noticed the hose? on the picture is cut. What is it called? I hope it can be bought and changed, I couldn't find it on-line. Ford was able to order it only in 20 days, due to holidays (for 36 euros) so I didn't order. I simply pulled the cut piece out (maybe 2,5 cm) and pushed the available part of hose? in the pipe? (maybe 1,5 cm). I hope at least P0238 (another fault I got on Torque) will be cleared, if this was the reason. I can feel turbo's working again. EDIT: Finally I replaced this hose with 20 cm of standard 5 mm hose (I found it in Hansa Flex store).
  5. More info: After I cleared error faults, "P0490 Powertrain" repeated which should be "Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) "A" Control Circuit High". Could this P0490 EGR error (malfunctioning?) be the cause temp. gauge is low? I had an accident with the engine, it fell down on right side (left looking from the front) due to broken bolt, other was unscrewed. As seen on picture, I have those pipes twisted. What are they? Can this be a problem?
  6. I used Torque app and standard OBD (not Ford) to list fault codes. First I got 3: P0490, P0120, P1622. I noticed coolant temperature was low, 62c. I was driving more yesterday and coolant temperature, as shown on Torque, was first 60c, but later 80c, even at some moments 90c, when driving in lower gear. Outside temperature was 0 degrees. In the evening, coolant temperature was 75c, and outside was - 5c. It takes maybe 8 kilometres to get gauge up, and never totally upright, always somewhat left (for all temperatures 75c-90c). What are the "normal coolant temperatures"? Haynes just uses the term, I didn't see an explanation. What are normal time or kilometers needed to get working temperature with such low outside temperatures? At which temp thermostat opens and closes? EDIT. With more testing: Coolant temp. finally rises to 90c, albeit slow, after 45 minutes of driving, maybe because it's cold. I even checked thermostat, it's closed in the beginning and when it opens, it's probably as specified, at 88c.
  7. Thanks. Sorry, could you please help some more: 'gasket' is a rubber 3-4 cm in diameter that connects lower part of housing to the engine? Makes sense to replace. Good if it comes with thermostat. What's between lower and upper part of existing housing? Also gasket, some seal? Can it be bought and replaced? When thermostat only is replaced, do we need to split lower and upper part of housing? I don't know how to change it otherwise. (I'm asking because coolant doesn't seem to leak now, maybe red marks are from before).
  8. Same as mine. I've had this issue for 1-2 years. As for DIY, as Tdci-Peter wrote: "From Haynes, Thermostat housing nut/bolt torque = 23nm." Or we can screw them by hand? I hope it doesn't break so easily.
  9. I also have a leak on housing. It seems to be on join and around bolts, so I at first was thinking of replacing just a gasket or whatever seals it. But after reading this, it seems better to replace complete housing. I'm still worried how long aftermarket part will last. Bellow 5 years would be bad, 1 year is awful. I see it requires torque wrench, but what is the exact optimal Nm? On my previous car Escort, I was able to easily replace thermostat myself without housing. I don't know why replacement is so complicated on new engines.
  10. How to find exact AC compressor type and pulley/bearing/clutch to buy? If you say: go to the store, stores where I buy mostly said they don't sell it, and one said bring us the parts to see. So, I'd rather buy this online.
  11. I had a whine and wanted to change the belt, but it turned out something is wrong with the compressor. Bearing was split from the pulley and stayed on the compressor. Since I was driving like that some time, not knowingly, even with new bearing added, AC doesn't work. I didn't test further whether it's pulley-clutch or magnet, I'll probably wait for the spring with that.
  12. This should be my AC compressor pulley, I guess (held in hand). It's not supposed just to be taken off like this (when aux belt is removed)? It seems to be broken. Could you point me how it is supposed to look like? I can't find it new, stores where I buy just don't sell it, and I'll probably have to try to find a used one.
  13. Did you solve it? Was it like this link or it was compressor pulley?
  14. In my case this glow plugs preheating takes rather long, even with the new battery. I meant to ask what would be the normal time, but I guess I'll first follow the test to see whether they're working at all: Ford Focus Mondeo Transit 1.8 TDCi Glow Plug Diagnostics and Replacement.