True Ford Enthusiast
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About FOCA

  • Rank
    Feet on the table

Contact Methods

  • First Name

Profile Information

  • Gender*
  • Ford Model
    Mondeo Mk3 Sleeper 194 flb.p.t.
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
  • Annual Mileage
    0 to 5000
  • Contributor

Recent Profile Visitors

8,519 profile views
  1. the reason you did not get a spark is there was no potential difference between the two batteries when they are both fully charged - one would have to be flat(ter) than the other to get a spark If you change the fuel filter it can be difficult to restart the engine after that - filling the filter up with diesel halps, it can take some cranking to bleed the system, the battery can go flat by the time the engine is ready to start, short bursts of cranking are not effective in bleeding and very lomg bursts can burn out the starter- assuming it has additional electrical power as well as the cars battery (there is a knack to it) replacing "service" items is ok (filters etc) but you really need to find out what is wrong, it can be a mistake to jump to conclusions a code OBD reader can help find faults and van pay for itself quickly - you will need an OBD1 one for a TDDI TDDIs are Euro 3 so you can fit a solid EGR blanking plate with no problem (eliminating one source of potential problems)
  2. On a diesel engine they only do a smoke (particulate) test, so you can decat ok and still pass this test (petrol engined cars are a different matter) But there is also a visual inspection, on some cars you cannot see the cat/ decat (due to undertrays/ engine covers etc) so a decat pipe can be fitted ok, on others, where the cat is more visible, it may be nessesary to remove the inside of the original cat, to decat the cat as carbon can sit in/on the surfaces of the cat, it can actually increase smoke, so removing it can reduce smoke (along with things like a solid EGR plate) As well as a dacat/ cat innard removal you may need to remove/ upgrade the exhaust back box, as this can be restrictive (it can restrict flow more than the cat) - so no point in just doing the cat without upgrading the back-box too
  3. It looks like the turbo actuator - could be the VNT vanes sticking, as abave (causing a "knock on" effect) A 2006 car TCDI should have an electronic actuator these can be expensive to fix (again, the VNT vanes should be cleaned/ working correctly before replacing the actuator) the boost hoses may be leaking but also check all your fluids as it may be coming from elsewhere but looks like its from the hoses where exactly is the leak?
  4. Its the DPF you need to heat up - not the inside of the car! Any performance increase may be due to the DPF unblocking rather than a the remap Remaps can be done specifically to increase bottom end power, on some diesels the bottom end power/ torque is restricted to help put less strain on the DMF (dual mass flywheel) mant remappers simply increase the fuelling so the remap "follows" the original map and the "low down restriction" is still in place - a better/ more expensive remap is more sophisticated and can increase bottom end but you may need to strengthen the transmission to cope with the extrabottom end torque A tuning box often increases bottom end power/ torque more than a remap A DPF delete can reduce turbo lag by allowing the turbine to spool up quicker - along with back box delete and decat can make a big difference , (as well as a free- flowing exhaust, as lenny has suggested)
  5. That is complete and utter garbage - EGR valves reduce power/ cause flat spots you dont get better boost from them, but worse boost, the EGR valve reduces the energy going to the turbine (part of the turbo system) so fitting a solid EGR plate helps increase the energy going to the turbine, thus reducing lag/ turbo spoolup time and improving throttle response - as may forum members can confirm from actual practical experience In general, total peak boost stays the same (with/ without EGR/ plate) as this is controlled by the actuator etc Sounds like a complete sharlitan who has taking your money but does not know what he is talking about If you have an underlying fault (like a blocked DPF) it can stop the engines power increasing with the remap, though
  6. Fiesta/ trim models and insuranceare not my area of expertese but - In any given engine size (eg 1.3L) there are different trim levels, the car itself is basically identical (eg, same shell etc) but there is more stuff stuck on the ghia trim for example some trim levels are in the factory (eg,Popular, Popular Plus, L, LX, Ghia, 1.6S, XR2i, RS Turbo, RS1800, Fiesta, Louisiana, LA, DL, SX, Azura, Si, Classic, Classic Quartz, Classic Cabaret, Saphire) Some were "specials" that were done in the dealers, usually to boost flagging sales (typically a couple of "extras" thrown in and a badge stuck on the tailgate) Apart from dealers sticking extra kit on, owners may have retrofitted kit as well The "base" model is usually the lowest or most basic available, perhaps the person that made out the log book put "base" (for base model) instead of "L" "LX" "popular" etc What does it say on the bootlid? Of course, when it comes to insurance, you must be careful
  7. Hi thanks for that! The breather still expells hot gasses / some oily spray even without the inlet sucking it in - the main difference is the engine does not re ingest it As the engine geats up there is some expansion of gasses (mainly air) in the crankcase, as well as some piston blow- by (depending on the age/ amount of wear on the engine + the amount of boost) as the pistons move up and down there is some to-and-throw-ing in the breather, and it can make a "chuffing" noise as this happens The main purpose of the breather is to de-pressurize or stop the pressure from building up in the crankase, so it does not matter if the inlet does not suck the gunge out Ive still got the car, its MOTd and taxed and i use it a fair bit, its "restricted" a bit to get a bit less bottom end power but more mid/ top end and its even lighter than it was, ive got a load of parts ive not fitted yet and i have a few other ideas life is a distraction/ gets in the way, though ive so little time and i cant really justify spending money on it (apart from essentials like tyres/ MOT stuff etc)- might wait untill spring now
  8. But - its not a Ford! I always think VWs are as over-rated as much as Fords are under-estimated
  9. When we are talking about decats we have to be careful not to get mixed up with petrol and diesel engines - Most diesel engines have a small, passive cat, there is no sensor, (no wires, no EML) the cat can be completely removed and the car can still easily pass the emmisions MOT test, as only particulates are measured on a diesel, diesel Ford owners have run decats for years, and passed several MOTs, no problem, recently the rules have tighened up, now there is to be a visual inspection, so it must look like there is a cat present, on many cars you cannot see if there is one or not, as there is an engine cover at the top, and an undertray on the bottom (the tester cannot remove covers) in this case as long as the (diesel) car can pass the particulates (smoke) test its ok - as carbon can build up on the surface of the cat, often a decat reduces smoke On cars where the cat is visible it can be cut open and the innards removed - many Ford owners have done this and passed the MOT no problem (as above, it may even help reduce smoke, especially in conjunction with a solid EGR plate ) in tests, it was found the back- box was more restictive than the cat (diesel mk3 mondeo 2.0 &2.2, other turbo-diesels are similar) On a petrol engined car its a different matter the presence of a cat may be detected by the emissions - and it may be diffucult to get the car running right and the emissions low enough to pass an MOT - in this case a high flow sports cat is probably the best way to go for a modern, petrol-engined road car
  10. All the parts look expensive -
  11. It may be possible to connect the inverter directly to the battery - theoretically it only needs 2 wires + and - (i would use heavy duty cable) , it could run through the firewall (scuttle?) this has the advantage if being seperate from the vans' existing wiring - you could add a suitable inline fuse close to the battery
  12. The engines are phisically the same and the difference is in the factory engine map it is possible to buy a 100PS version and have it remapped to about 135 - 140HP the 100PS is good anyway
  13. Fit a panel filter (K&N, pipercross or green cotton) and smooth out the inside of your existing airbox do you want to make more noise, increase power or both? is your car an NA st150PS or the later turbo st180?
  14. jeebowhite has done a guide with links to sellers -
  15. If you had the chance to rewind time and not spend the money on the 1.25 and just buy an ST (or similar) instead - is that what you would have done? In my view you really need the car to have something very special for all the hassle - only just being as quick as an ST is hardly worth it - it needs serious power like a Focus mk2 5-pot (225ps stock and about 260Hp with just a remap) or take it up to RS spec or above (350+Hp) You will have seen the 700+Hp evo-engined fiesta - No point in mucking about with sub-200hp engines when you could have just bought an ST