True Ford Enthusiast
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  1. One of the disadvantages of stop/start Is that It needs special batteries and It stresses those batteries more. The EFB types are more expensive than normal batteries and you don't get such a long warranty which seems lIke the opposite of a bargain but you do save a bit more on fuel although the other way of looking at that Is that the fuel economy of the car may not be as impressive as It first seemed before you knew about the extra battery expense. Anyway assuming that you do need a size 100 EFB job Tayna have a Varta D54 for £90.49 (plus delv?). Fitting batteries isn't exactly difficult but they are heavy but I wouldn't be surprised if you could get a local mechanic to fit one for £10 - 20.
  2. You essentially have two categories of problem: a commercial/legal one, and an actual technical one. As far as the technical one is concerned, I am inclined to think something le Stewby's issue is the one. Maybe to cross over you need to send Ford a letter (the dealer/the Ford company??) saying that their refusal to even look is forcing you to go elsewhere, but is not limiting your intention to hold them liable for any costs incurred. Or, something. There are questions about whether your garage has just been inept (inept off ther own bat, without any 'help' from Ford) or the qualty of the training or support has been inadequate, but your legal recourse - if any - would be with the people who you paid to do the job, ie, your dealer; if they then have an issue with Ford that's up to them to sort out. You'd have thought your history with that dealer might have made them more inclined to see your point of view but not everything that you think ought to be correct is.
  3. You'd need a 2009 or later Sony to have any chance of DAB. Handily the DAB ones say 'DAB' on the fascia, so at least it is easy to tell when you see one. There is also an 'adaptor box' that is quite cheap but the reports I hear are that it is poor and you'll regret it if you really want the DAB (it uses a patch antenna on the front screen and what with the quick clear screen it is unsurprising that this isn't the perfect solution - having said that if you only ever want DAB in high signal strength areas it might not be that bad). As far as I remember there are two different antenna solutions for the Sony DAB. The late one uses two different antennae (patches on the rear three quarter windows) and a diversity unit that switches to the one that has the best signal. The earlier solution (2009 to facelift) uses a separate set of connections to the roof antenna (I think). I'm not sure whether the Sony units for the two different antenna solutions are compatible so you'll have to be wary. For bluetooth there is an an external bluetooth box, but I think some of the early ones aren't as capable as the later ones. I don't think you can do streaming on the early ones although that might just be a software update (or not, of course).
  4. As a possible alternative multimeter consider this from Maplins: what I particularly like about this is that it has a 'rubber bumper' surround which makes it a bit more rugged for 'throwing In the boot'.
  5. Err, it is a sign of water in the brake fluid and not much else. Well apart from old brake fluid probably; it is probably more likely if mess around with it a lot. it does absorb water over time and having absorbed water the boiling point goes down and that isn't what you want.
  6. Really, if you want help you should say which engine this is. Ok, I understand you have given enough clues that people can work out that it is a petrol, but specific is better. Second does it start, even temporarily, on 'easy start'? That gives a good clue as to whether the problem is fuel (and for most engines it is usually either fuel or spark); I would guess it probably is, but it would be nice to have evidence.
  7. Well... I like Vpower Diesel. I'd like to tell you that the improved fuel economy makes it essentially the same price as 'normal' fuel, but I can't. However: The car defntely feels a little bit smoother at motorway speeds. This isn't a big effect, but it is there. (That'll be sixth gear at just over 2000 rpm or so; if your car does a different rpm on the motorway, you may get a different result) You can run the engine down to a lower rpm in a high gear without it complaining (much). The car gets a bit grumbly below say 1700 rpm on ordinary fuel, but I can go a bit lower than that with Vpower. I'm not totally convinced that it is a good idea to do this, as it could still damage the DMF, but it is nice that I could. (I have tried working out how this might work and have had no success. What mechanism would cause the engine to run better at low rpm? I could come up with some hand-waving explanations for high rpm but low? No.) I see 'transient' mpg figures on the dash that look better than when I'm on 'normal' fuel, but I have difficulty pointing out much of a saving at the end of the week. If you have one of the Shell loyalty cards there always seem to be offers on Vpower that are ether better than on 'normal' or just not on 'normal' at all. This makes the price difference less than it may seem at first sight but I can't say that it makes the difference disappear. BTW I haven't tried the BP equivalent since they reformulated it, but I really didn't detect much of an improvement on the old formulation. Esso and Total also have their 'super' fuels but I had seen materials from both of those that had suggested they only added more detergent (say, twice the amount) and I'd hoped for a bit more for about 10p more a litre. Although Esso have also reformulated/re-branded their fuels recently... And ASDA? Usually the cheapest but I pretty consistently get a couple of mpg (on the dash) lower with ASDA and that also happened wth my previous (petrol) car and It doesn't clear up until I have flushed the ASDA fuel away. I don't see that with Sansbury, Morrisons, or Tesco on the limited occasions that I have tried them (Sains more often than the others).
  8. Sorry, wasn't sure whether you were being serous (vaguely's_Law and all that). But the serous point is that these how these things are supposed to work. Not ideal but that is how it is. And I failed to laugh at all, at first, but I have now.
  9. This is absolutely normal for systems which don't have a subwoofer out from the HU (and most manufacturer systems don't; they only have the stuff that they use, rather than anything 'for expansion' however nice that might be). Essentially, you have the subwoofer in wired to a 'sum' of two of the normal speaker outs; it could be a 'sum' of all of the speaker outs, but usually it isn't, to reduce the complexity and amount of wiring. What you really want is a line level output from the HU, which can easily be a sum of all the channels, but you don't have that. Oh, and you don't have to sit in the back, just have to have the rear outputs turned up to a reasonable level.
  10. "1. Will I lose the steering column controls (not the end of the world if I do)" Depends entirely on the HU (well for some you might need to buy an extra bit of interface kit). Check any advert to see what they claim. If they claim that they have it and it doesn't work you should be able to send it back. If they don't make any claim then you probably don't but it might be worth an e-mail to the seller to check. "2. Will a standard double DIN headunit fit straight in or are there some that will fit better than others. I know a fascia plate will probably be required too. " I think you will almost certainly need a fascia plate and whoever sells the HU probably should sell you one. You might need some kind of adaptor between the existing connections and the HU. Again the seller ought to be able to advise.
  11. Not the handbrake/rear brakes sticking on?
  12. a) IANAL b) I'm still not a lawyer c) Don't touch any of their logos, etc. They will have something like trademark protection. That said, you could probably remove them and they would have difficulty getting much legal leverage against you (but see below), but modify them, and you are in deep stuff (legally, of course). d) They could choose to argue that some Ferrari or another is so iconic that it constitutes an object which, of and by itself, has something like copyright protection. I think this is probably a difficult legal argument to make, but if they were successful in that, they have an action against you if you modify it from how it shipped from the factory. Not at all convinced that if you changed it from one standard factory colour to another, they would be successful against that (ie, it still looked exactly like a car that they shipped from their factory just a different car that they shipped from their factory from the one that you bought; I can't see how that would be degrading the brand value) but they'd probably try. (Colours can, of course, be copyrighted, but that protection would come in if you tried to use a Ferrari colour for something else; there is a danger though if you changed most of the colour that they could say 'it isn't as it left the factory any more, and is therefore not any longer a Ferrari, and therefore you have no rght to use that bit of Ferrari colour on it. Particularly if that were in a place that no one could see, you could consider that to be sneaky.) e) The large print giveth and the small print taketh away. Read the small print of any conditions imposed on you at the time that you purchased it. Don't believe that there is anything there that they might choose not to enforce, even if it is the most idiotic condition that you have ever seen. f) If you bought your Ferrari from another Ferrari owner (ie, second hand) and they didn't impose on you some conditions that their contract sad that they should have, imagine all sorts of stuff, largely involving enriching lawyers, taking place. The worst I can see is that they may be able to get your purchase of the Ferrari from the previous owner declared invalid, but that's pretty bad, particularly if you like Ferraris. In summary, don't make the mistake of thinking that they are not totally up themselves. That would be entirely wrong.
  13. That's some rust that isn't being cleaned up by the brake disks wearing that particular area. So, of and by itself that is not really a bad thing, per se. What may, or may not, be a problem s how the brake disks have worn in the 'shiny' areas: there will be a minimum thickness which, eg, an MoT tester would know and when you get down to, or near, that limit they are worn.
  14. speakers

    Those are convertors and not connectors, per se. Again the results depend a bit on how you use them: you have a high level out of your existing HU/amp and while you are far better off using an RCA (line level) out of your HU/amp, if you don't have one, you don't have one. These things are usually a pair of resistors connected as a potential divider. the temptation is to connect them by the HU and there are some problems with that. firstly any capacitance in the wiring to the other equipment acts as a low pass filter. That's not an issue if you are driving a sub - hey I've just filtered out some frequencies that weren't going to reproduce anyway - but may be, if you are driving a tweeter. Acting as a potential divider, these things should attenuate both wanted and unwanted signals equally. f the earth they are connected to is close to the HU any noise on that earth (signal with respect to the other earth - the earth at the input of the receiving amplifier) does not get attenuated, and then that amplfer amplifies it, that being its job.
  15. speakers

    If by in-line connectors you mean the Scotchlok 'Vampire Tap' type things, they probably aren't the most reliable things long term and are likely to be intermittent as the car gets older/has some moisture ingress, and that isn't likely to sound good. Also it depends a bit on how you use them; if vibration can put strain on them, that makes things worse, and if you pass the full speaker current through them (as opposed to just passing the minimal current to a high-ish impedance input) that could be worse too. And, there are different sizes for different wire gauges, and not everyone uses the right ones. Stripping the wire locally, and going to a soldered connection is always likely to be better, making the usual assumptions about strain relief, insulation, etc, etc. As to the wires, It Is likely that they are amongst the thicker wIres (power and ground likely to be the thickest) and that they are the same colours as the wIres that end up by the speakers (unless there s a split for any reason). Sorry, don't know more.