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About BOF

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    Too much time on the boards

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  1. "For cam belt, I would be inclined not to wait the extra 4k, do it now if in the slightest doubt! Expensive (or time consuming), but much more expensive if it goes!" I have to second that; for most people buying a car in this situation they will only change the cam belt once so it doesn't cost them any more to change it as soon as is sensible (like now). It might be an idea to lst what problems you still have after you've done this work because I'm getting a bit confused about which problems you still have and which have now gone away.
  2. Could be many things. Can you measure some voltages (off charge, on charge (nominally...with the engine running, so that it should be charging) with not much load and on charge (say 2000 rpm) but with a fairly heavy load, such as the heated front screen, on. At this point it could be the alternator not charging the battery properly (and there could be several reasons for that) the battery being shot and not having much capacity (very plausible given the age of the vehicle if it is the original battery or a totally unsuitable battery has been fitted) or something discharging the battery by taking a current when the vehicle is off; ideally you would want to narrow it down rather than just replacing things at random until something happens to work.
  3. This site with its non-functioning editing is a right pain! Anyway, although this doesn't help immediately, I think you ought to find a cheaper place to buy tyres.
  4. "...whether I go for Contis, but I've found the Contact 2 has apparently been superseded by the Contact 5..." There seems to be a danger of confusion. You were talking about the PremumContact 2s, and there are also EcoContacts (and Sportcontacts though possibly not in your size...and even WinterContacts although I am sure that they are not relevant). These are quite different tyres. You can still get PC2s, even if they mght be obsolescent, and given that they are more expensive than PC5s, usually, so I am not sure why you would. Mind you, the Contis are all a bit on the expensive side, so if you are worried about the cost maybe Contis should not be your first choice. (You might make the money back on the eco contacts over the life of the tyre with a longer tyre life and an improvement in fuel economy. Maybe. Although the grip is probably lower than the more mainstream options, so maybe you don't want that. The ZV7s seem to be decently priced; I'd think their competition would tyres le Barum Bravuris 3, Hanook Ventus Prime 3 125, Toyo Proxes CF2 (I didn't know the CF2 were avail in XL), Matador MP 47 Hectorra 3 (not a fuel economy choice), Vredestein Ultrac Satin might be a slightly more expensive but decent choce. Goodyear Efficient Grip Performance are available in your size, and while in principle, they are only a mild upgrade on the plain Efficient Grips the fact that they available in the higher load rating should mean that the sidewall bulges are a bt less likely. Yokohama BluEarth-A (AE50) ought to be decent, too. Dunlop Sport BluResponse or Pirelli Cinturato P7 Blue are probably as fuel economical as you are likely to get but are already a bit expensive with the Dunlops being quieter. Michelin Primacy 3 probably fairly similar but a bit less economical but a bit more expensive and bit longer life. by the time that you get to a Uniroyal Rainsport 3 you get to grippy tyres that wear out a bit quickly possbly wth less steering precision. I can't see the more obvious performance choices (GY Eagle F1 Assy 3 and 2 Dunlop RT2 and RT and Cont SC5) in this size but maybe haven't looked hard enough. In any case these are the grippy but higher wear options. You can get 93 and 97 (XL) rated tyres in that size and if you can I would definitely go for the 97s.
  5. I don't particularly like Goodyear EGs, but I'd be a lot happier if they were, say, £10 cheaper so take that in to account. Also I don't think that EGs are available in XL (not in my size anyway) and, certainly on the Mk 4, I feel that XLs are a better match than non-XLs. I did have a sidewall bulge on one of my EGs where the tyres at the other end of the car (Barum Bravuris 2s in XL/97) probably had a bigger impact with the object in the road than the EGs and they showed no problem. All that said,, the Conti PCs probably aren't Contis finest hour either (unless you like that kind of tyre) so I don't feel like I'm offering you easy options... Can you describe what you really want from your tyres, and say what size the tyres are please?
  6. By now the hoses to the pressure sensor have probably gone crispy and, maybe, even started to leak. If that is the case that's probably your problem. Could also be the wiring to the sensor. The sensor itself shouldn't need resetting, but the ECU may do.
  7. I have an idea but whether it is true is another matter: If you have an injector leak problem, it could be that the engine runs rich until it gets a little load, and thus a little more air. Probably worth doing a leak off test.
  8. Yes, it can. You have 'sports' tyres which are at the 'high wear, good grip' end of the spectrum. Depending on which tyres you have driving style and conditions this is at the low end but not completely abnormal; it is not abnormal for the rears to last two or three times as long as fronts. It is of course worth checking the tyre pressures with something believable (petrol station are gauges are not always believable)
  9. Autoexpess did a review a while back, and I was a bit surprised not to see the whole lot slagged off as inadequate for the task at hand, but they weren't. t s a whole load easer to see how one of the traditional pressure pump/torch/jump starter things works. Haven't any personal experience though.
  10. I thInk the fIrst thIng you should do Is pursue the route suggested by DieselPig; contact the manufacturer and say you are unhappy that thIs should have happened at thIs mIleage and age, and suggest that they might want to help you out In some way. If you can vaguely intimate that you mIght do something else, If that proves unsatisfactory, that mIght help them make their mind up. You might for example contact watchdog, post reviews on tyre sites, post back on enthusiast sites etc, etc, but you may want to see what they say first before committing to any particular route. In the interim, what tyres are they and what sIze are they?
  11. I wouldn't be that concerned by the cracking of the tread blocks, while it is still relatively slight. On the other hand, I would be at least a bit concerned by the cracking in between the tread blocks. My feeling is that you'll get less grip from them than you would have done when they were new, but that this has come on so gradually that it probably isn't a problem, because you have probably had plenty of opportunity to get used to it. I'd probably move them round to the front and hope they wear down before it gets much worse (although you do need grip at the front and you may notice the grip fall off there more). As an alternative, you can treat them with something like 'grip' which will tend to soften the rubber, and so help prevent the rubber from cracking more and help them, well, grip, but at the cost of more rapid wear. But then, if you really want rid of them, maybe more rapid wear isn't such a big problem. Never really have liked Bridgestones...
  12. Battery voltage disastrously low - less than 6 Volts, say.
  13. Can? Yes. Likely to? No. I find it a little difficult to believe that a competent and experienced service man can get to the point of spraying the fluid without noticing that it wasn't a petrol in front of him. Maybe he was having a bad day. Given how a TDCI works, I can't see how you can damage it with a reasonable amount of spray, but if you apply a totally unreasonable amount of spray you can bend a rod.
  14. Be aware of two things; there is a lot of filtering in the fuel gauge so don't expect (anything like) instant response there. Secondly it may be just a portion of the track (sounds like) that is worn out so you may get entirely different results with different fuel levels.
  15. It isn't the fuel pump. It is either the sender, or the wiring to it. You are getting wrong readings for the fuel level. Sometimes the sender float leaks, sometimes the 'wiper' goes open circuit, sometimes it s the wiring that goes open circuit, or gets a short to ground. The fuel pump doesn't do that. Fuel consumption (as oppose to 'range') doesn't use the fuel tank level, so is unaffected but range is fuel remaining divided by fuel consumption, so is affected. Your symptoms sound like there is an open circuit on a part of the sender resistive track, which means that the level reading goes 'bad' (zero) over a certain range of tank levels. Do you want to confirm the fault with a DVM or do you just want to change the sender?