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True Ford Enthusiast
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About BOF

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    Too much time on the boards

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  • Ford Model Mondeo
  • UK/Ireland Location Cambridgeshire
  1. Thanks for the looks to me as if the relay in that anti-theft system will discharge the battery in about 14 days, all on its own, so I'd try pulling that out and see what happens. (And then there is the rest of the anti-theft system, which will draw some current. It won't take zero current when idle, but it might be quite small...or not.) ...that's not really a drain, so much as the voltage drop caused by a drain: the drain would be a current, and that's more difficult to measure. Well, it is easy if you have a clamp-on current meter/attachment, but you'd have probably mentioned it if you did.   If you go around the fuses (or the anti-theft sys relay) and pull them, and in doing that one of them makes a bigger difference to the battery voltage than the rest, then that is an obvious suspect. If just thinking about that doesn't give you some obvious inspiration (like 'it was the a/t system fuse/relay... I wonder what that could mean?') then connecting the DVM in current mode to replace the missing connection should allow you to get an approx current reading. If, multiplied by several days, that gets you anywhere near the Ah rating of your battery, that's probably the one. (Milliamps, divided by 1000 to give amps, multiplied by hours)   Edit "The Battery is Ford, 590CCA, 5 Year Warranty, 3 Years old, I don't think it is the Battery." The Ampere-hours number would have been more useful, in this case, and I can't quite read the text on the battery. And, bare in mind that the capacity will decline over life, and just to pull a number from thin air, after 3 years the battery may well be down by ~20 - 40% capacity, so to 60 - 80% of its 'label' capacity (or lower, if it has been 'abused', by heavy discharging, for example).  
  2. Cam Belt Fail

    The problem is that the 125k life for the belt is quite a long one, and while engines operating normally may not threaten that, there are engine faults which can reduce the life of the belt. I can completely understand what you say about it being your last Ford, and think that Ford should take more seriously the fact that they can p1ss off 'second owners' by their approach, and, if no one will be the second user of their cars, the second hand values will collapse. Not good for anyone.
  3. Mondeo 1.8 Tdci Edge 100Ps

    At this point, the previous will still be influencing average figures on the dash display, so you need to give it longer (and, if you bought it from a dealer, they may have moved it around their lot quite a bit, so that would make it worse, too).
  4. Mondeo 1.8 Tdci Edge 100Ps

    What are the mpg figures? How long have you had it?
  5. Electrical Pop/crackle

    First question: is there actually any evidence of the fuse box getting wet? Or any other part of the electrical system, for that matter? I've also had the case where the wiring had been a bit 'hacked' by a previous owner and that caused occasional electrical glitches, and water didn't seem to be anything to do with that (they had some extra electrical equipment fitted and just cut straight through the wiring, without insulating anything when they did it, which wasn't ideal).
  6. Quite a few people seem to be interested in the Eonon units; you can get them on-line, but I'm not sure about physical, bricks and mortar, stores. One thing that I find quite surprising is that, in spite of all the features that get loaded in to aftermarket units (SAT Nav and all sorts of android programs, for example), it seems difficult to get DAB radio without buying an external box (or even, not having it available at all).
  7. I did have a car, years ago, where the speedo wasn't working, and it did get through the MoT, although it probably shouldn't have. If you were paying attention, you probably could see that when it was on the brake rollers, but that probably depends on how conscientious the inspector feels on the day. In my case, it was the drive cable that would have needed replacing, but would have been a real pain. Don't know whether that's a likely cause on yours.
  8. The way that you write this it seems that you have decided that there is a spurious drain current that is flattening your battery over 7 - 10 days. If that is really what you mean, do you have some evidence (like DVM readings). One of the problems with battery-going-flat issues is that it could be spurious drain, it could be battery faulty, it could be battery not being charged fully and it could be battery worn out (although that is less likely if the battery is relatively recent, but then if it is relatively recent but has been used hard/abused, which it could be if the charging isn't working correctly, then it still could be what is going on and, as pragmatix says, it could just be a one-off bad battery). Given that those different failure types have different paths to pinpoint the cause any more information that you could give would be helpful.
  9. According to tyre reviews, practically all of the initial sizes release on the 16-Jan. What I am not clear about is whether that date is 'stock at the factory' or 'stock in tyre dealers' (and prices, of course, which presumably become available from dealers then). Actually, another good question, while I think about it, is that while most of the tyres are C A 71dB, a couple of sizes are E A 71dB (205/45 ZR 17 (88Y) XL, 215/45 ZR 17 (91Y) XL, 245/40 ZR 17 (95Y) XL). Is there some kind of constructional difference behind that, or is just the way it works out with those sizes?
  10. Mk3 2.5 V6 Service (Plugs Etc)

    Stick to the standard Ford-spec oil (whether it is Ford-branded or Castrol Magnatec or Mobil FE 3000) would be my advice. And, don't leave it so long next time...
  11. Mk3 2.5 V6 Service (Plugs Etc)

    I have topped up (probably a litre or less) the standard oil with a synth 5w/40, which according to the owner handbook you are allowed to do, and then mine wouldn't cold start (cold start in the cold, it would cold start in temperatures above say ~5C). It isn't viscous drag slowing crank speed (which everyone believes it 'must be') but tappet pump up (and repeated attempts to start it it probably cost me a starter motor). That said, the 5W/40 did look appreciably thicker than the 5W/30 at ordinary ambient temps when pouring, but it was a quality 5w/40 oil...probably it was at the thickest end for 5w oils, but still... Once started, it was fine because you only needed to get a few degrees into the oil, and everything was happy again. (Sometimes it would cough in to life on, say, four or five cylinders, but after 30 seconds the oil would be warm enough for all six to play, and everything was fine).
  12. Mk3 2.5 V6 Service (Plugs Etc)

    Well, they are, but not in the way that you think!
  13. Mk3 2.5 V6 Service (Plugs Etc)

    I'd regard oil and filter as important. I have looked at the spark plugs, but didn't actually do them as they look a bit difficult (thought to myself - they are a decent brand of spark plugs, they ought to last this long - don't know whether that's true, or not). Now, if the engine cranks slowly, the battery is probably on its way out, although it could also be wiring. If the engine cranks at a reasonable speed, but it still doesn't start well, it is likely to be something else. They are quite sensitive to oil, and, given the previous comment, new oil (of the right spec!) may help.
  14. No Power Below 1500Rpm

    Odd; EGR sounded plausible to me (in the 'Why didn't I think of that' kind of sense). But, if the battery is seriously off, it can have all sorts of bad effects, but it does have to be seriously off (as in a cell or two shorted out, and a nominal 12 volt battery becomes a nominal 10 or 8 volt battery). Anyway, good luck!
  15. No Power Below 1500Rpm

    Apparently not! From the date, that could be a late Mk3 or an early Mk4, which is it? In any case, the first place I'd look would be for leaks in the boost hoses. I know you have had a look already, but these things can hide, so look carefully - probably best, after an initial inspection, to get someone to rev the engine for you and see if you can feel any air coming out, as some leaks will only open up under pressure (being careful of rotating parts and all the other usual warnings, etc). MAF next - check it is clean and the wiring ok. Some contact cleaner on the contacts and work it in and out a few times. Any reason to think that cam or crank sensors might be suspect (removed recently, or DMF problems)? I'm afraid then you are probably on to serious stuff. Edit Should have asked: Is it the same hot and cold, or is iot different while warming up?