Ford Owners Club - Ford Forums Messages


Join us on the Ford Owners Club stand at Ford Fair, Silverstone on Sunday 6th August 2017.

Click this link to find out more

AdBlock Warning

Parts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.


True Ford Enthusiast
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About BOF

  • Rank
    Too much time on the boards

Profile Information

  • Ford Model
  • UK/Ireland Location

Recent Profile Visitors

3,705 profile views
  1. I'd say it is possible but I wouldn't really like to go much further than that. It could cause the glow plugs not to come on (not that they come on much above arctic temperatures) and it could cause the fueling to be wrong. Really I'd have expected it to still start but with some difficulty.
  2. A common problem; well it is usually either the clock spring or the buttons themselves.
  3. Well one way or another they are all communications problems or seem to be. 2 are lost communication 3 are are invalid data communicated. In this circumstance and particularly bearing in mind your history of non-use I would try: - try removing the connectors from the modules give a spray of contact cleaner and wiggle around and re-try - while you are there loo at the earths at the modules and if they appear corroded clean up and use contact cleaner Faults after storage are often down to corrosion particularly if the car has been a little damp. Beyond that you might be well advised to try an auto electrician. I'm not sure that there is much argument for messing around with relays (the fault doesn't seem to be one of the relays) or the ABS module itself (it seems to be likely to be something to do with the CAN bus and inter-module communication rather than the ABS module unless it is the comms part of the ABS module with rather peculiar faults).
  4. Well the brakes are sticking - on one side at least. This is quite common particularly for the rears for some reason. Quite how you have managed to change so much without curing the problem is a slightly different question. Have you tried jacking up the wheel that gets hot, operating the handbrake, and trying to spin the wheel having released the handbrake?
  5. Well, based on no knowledge whatsoever of the actual vehicle, I would imagine that while the tyre noise would be a bit worse it is the kind of thing that is very variable by tyre brand/type and rating, so my impression is that you'd probably be able to find a relatively quiet type of tyre that would minimise the problem. That said, be aware that going 19" already increases the cost and limits the choice of tyre, so you might find that limiting the choice yet further is not what you'd call a good thing.
  6. While it is a bit of a mystery to me how the bridged relay made it 'sort of' work the bigger mystery is why you don't just take it back to the selling garage and just say 'Well fix it then'. The only thing that I can think of with the bridged relay is that the relevant control unit is driving the motor directly rather than using the relay at all and I'm not sure why this nearly works but I wouldn't be turning this up to full just in case (leave blowers on low) nor am I clear why it blows every so often with the ignition switched off.
  7. I tend to feel that you are spot on. I can't see how you could break a piston ring without having some impact on oil consumption although that might be disguised if you have another cause of oil consumption. Also if this does happen you blow air/oil mist through the crankcase but if the breathers are working it doesn't really pressurise anything. Check that the sump plug isn't the source of the leak; I have seen this and it is not nice. And how would they now the difference between this and say low compression caused by a chipped valve?
  8. My reading of the new deal is that you can have either the pollen filter or the air filter. That may be wrong but I don't see it making much sense. I was just on my last few weeks before my service was due so I am really p'eed off with this news. Ether I find a cheap local reliable garage (cheap or somewhat reliable is easy both fully is a bit difficult) or sell the car. Is anyone else's servicing deal better?
  9. A bit more detail: Take Goodyear, for example. I have used used 'Efficient Grips' and found them a bit poor. They are defntely less grippy than the top sport tyres (the same manufacturer's Eagle F1 Assy 3 for example) they are actually more expensive than the cheapest you can find the F1 assy 3s f you shop around and they feel a bt vague and poorly defined. Does that make Goodyear a poor tyre manufacturer? No not really; it just makes the EGs a poor choice on a Mondy in my tyre size (and its an older design and if they replaced it today it would surely be a better tyre and I might have a different opinion if they were priced against mid-range tyres or available in XL load rating or I had a different tyre size or they were better on wear life). So the recently superseded Cont SC5? They'll probably still be around but Cont themselves would suggest that PC6s (not the earlier PC tyres though) are a better tyre and in most ways they would appear to be right. Haven't seen a competitive review on the Ultrac Satins yet so if there is something on-line I'd like to know. They have the potential to be a very decent mid-range choice. And those Avons? Probably the latest are another good mid-range choice and I could see some people feeling that they were their favourite tyres but they probably aren't going to displace the Plot SS4 or the PC6 (or even the 5P if available in your size) as the sportiest tyre. (And I could throw in Pirelli - some of their recent tyres seem pretty decent but their older designs can be a bit ropey) Of course, it all depends on what you want.
  10. Not going to choose a Tyre Brand. Just seems like a stupid thing to do when most manufacturers make good tyres and bad tyres (for my requirements and they would change depending on the tyre size/car combination).
  11. This sounds like a partly open circuit sender track, although t could also be an intermittent bit of wiring. Essentially the computer gets no signal from the fuel tank sender and algorithm/heavy filtering keep showing what was there before for quite a long time.
  12. You need access to a DVM. Beg, steal, borrow or buy. You don't have to be a mechanic, but you may have to tell us which engine and model of car you have.
  13. As you don't seem to be getting an answer let me suggest the (for example) Castrol website. Does that help?
  14. I was wondering how could answer this question without re-writing war and peace and stll convey my meaning. It turns out the answer was to wait for a while and let DJ_Andy_M do it. I suspect the garage is taking the pith. A couple of new tyres? Well that could happen but it probably shouldn't be surprise. Urgent replacement of timing belt? Rated life depends on engine so check when it is due on ETIS. Oil in coolant? Should be able to see that but I suspect it isn't there. Front discs and pads need replacing Most people get a little more than this but it certainly could happen depending on driving style and various other things. Brake/coolant change required. No connection between those items. Coolant change could be necessary if the oil has been leaking but I have my doubts. Find yourself a trustworthy garage.
  15. It is possible that rather than the alternator it is the alternator drive belt that is slipping. This would cause more of a screaming nose on start-up and would typically be worse wet and when on load and at start-up. On the other hand the alternator bearings (or one bearing) might be shot and that would cause a whine/rumble but wouldn't themselves cause a burning smell. When you are looking at the wiring be sure to check for any sign of overheating (eg insulation looking as if it has partly melted away from the wire) as that could also be a clue. Could you only hear it over the radio or was there a mechanical noise as well? If you could hear it over the radio (and you do mean 'through the radio loudspeakers' rather than just 'louder than the radio?) I think it has to be alternator/regulator.