True Ford Enthusiast
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    Too much time on the boards

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  1. I have to say that when mine went at 115k, I swore. Get it done.
  2. I thought that was only if you still had an engine approved to the same emissions standards, which this wouldn't be. They ought to check the engine code on an MoT, although possibly in practice they don't.
  3. It is very probably possible but the amount of aggro involved could be anywhere from hardly any to almost infinite. This is quite a range. If you can get the two wiring diagrams and trace them through to ensure that the same (nominal) connections were made that would be a good start. But you only have to run in to something like an air con module which has an output that works differently and you could have a car that stalls every time that you change gear with the air con on. And it could be all sorts of other things apart from a/c. Now having done that to make it legal for the road you have to get type approval. Here there will be a much more thorough test than an MoT. Now you could argue that with a relatively simple change like this it ought not to be too bad but don't know of any route that gets you a simpler test. And then there is insurance but that will need the approval and once you've got that they should only charge you money...
  4. Well just having been through this with a Racecar (on carbon pads/steel disks) I'd say that some of the recommended procedures can be a little excessive. I think the thing that you are aiming for is to gradually build the temperature up and not get them red hot on the first few cycles. And if you do overheat them (ie have to do an emergency stop procedure or have an accident) you want to get them back cool as soon as possible and without clamping the brakes on afterwards. I would say that because I think that it is high temps across the whole pad that you are trying to avoid that, while it might not be desirable, you can probably get away with short sharp prods at the brakes at any time, but I could be wrong.
  5. Well you don't say which tyres they are but if they were Event WL905s you might want to read that link. What is worth noting is that people are not complaining about the noise because they are complaining about things that might kill them. And these are Event's 'Ultra Hgh Performance' tyres so what the ones less targeted at performance are like....!
  6. I have had a Yaris (briefly) as a hire car and while it was quite nice to drive (quiet comfortable) the 1337 petrol engine didn't have much guts and it wasn't very economical. And you really want the top model to get the reversing camera/infotainment/sat nav touch screen affair. Maybe the Diesel Is better.... Ecoboost sounds good to me.
  7. Is your vehicle battery really that bad? The cig lighter on stays on for ~20 mins after the ignition goes off.
  8. My belief from what have around the forums s that the Mk4.5 uses patch antennas on the rear three quarter light windows. The front windscreen heater acts as an RF shield and that's a bad thing if you actually want to receive the signal. The hrw also acts as a shield but will be effective at a slightly different frequency range and to a slightly different degree. So you can see the attraction of using the quarter lights. thin the Ford approach uses both and the system intelligently switches between the two depending on which has the best signal. To do this you probably need the Ford HU from the Mk4.5 (and maybe other bits, if there is a pre-amplifier which there may well be). I also thought about a 'sharksfin' but went off the idea once I realised that my insurance would charge me extra for it.
  9. I'd say it is possible but I wouldn't really like to go much further than that. It could cause the glow plugs not to come on (not that they come on much above arctic temperatures) and it could cause the fueling to be wrong. Really I'd have expected it to still start but with some difficulty.
  10. A common problem; well it is usually either the clock spring or the buttons themselves.
  11. Well one way or another they are all communications problems or seem to be. 2 are lost communication 3 are are invalid data communicated. In this circumstance and particularly bearing in mind your history of non-use I would try: - try removing the connectors from the modules give a spray of contact cleaner and wiggle around and re-try - while you are there loo at the earths at the modules and if they appear corroded clean up and use contact cleaner Faults after storage are often down to corrosion particularly if the car has been a little damp. Beyond that you might be well advised to try an auto electrician. I'm not sure that there is much argument for messing around with relays (the fault doesn't seem to be one of the relays) or the ABS module itself (it seems to be likely to be something to do with the CAN bus and inter-module communication rather than the ABS module unless it is the comms part of the ABS module with rather peculiar faults).
  12. Well the brakes are sticking - on one side at least. This is quite common particularly for the rears for some reason. Quite how you have managed to change so much without curing the problem is a slightly different question. Have you tried jacking up the wheel that gets hot, operating the handbrake, and trying to spin the wheel having released the handbrake?
  13. Well, based on no knowledge whatsoever of the actual vehicle, I would imagine that while the tyre noise would be a bit worse it is the kind of thing that is very variable by tyre brand/type and rating, so my impression is that you'd probably be able to find a relatively quiet type of tyre that would minimise the problem. That said, be aware that going 19" already increases the cost and limits the choice of tyre, so you might find that limiting the choice yet further is not what you'd call a good thing.
  14. While it is a bit of a mystery to me how the bridged relay made it 'sort of' work the bigger mystery is why you don't just take it back to the selling garage and just say 'Well fix it then'. The only thing that I can think of with the bridged relay is that the relevant control unit is driving the motor directly rather than using the relay at all and I'm not sure why this nearly works but I wouldn't be turning this up to full just in case (leave blowers on low) nor am I clear why it blows every so often with the ignition switched off.
  15. I tend to feel that you are spot on. I can't see how you could break a piston ring without having some impact on oil consumption although that might be disguised if you have another cause of oil consumption. Also if this does happen you blow air/oil mist through the crankcase but if the breathers are working it doesn't really pressurise anything. Check that the sump plug isn't the source of the leak; I have seen this and it is not nice. And how would they now the difference between this and say low compression caused by a chipped valve?