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  1. "1. Will I lose the steering column controls (not the end of the world if I do)" Depends entirely on the HU (well for some you might need to buy an extra bit of interface kit). Check any advert to see what they claim. If they claim that they have it and it doesn't work you should be able to send it back. If they don't make any claim then you probably don't but it might be worth an e-mail to the seller to check. "2. Will a standard double DIN headunit fit straight in or are there some that will fit better than others. I know a fascia plate will probably be required too. " I think you will almost certainly need a fascia plate and whoever sells the HU probably should sell you one. You might need some kind of adaptor between the existing connections and the HU. Again the seller ought to be able to advise.
  2. Not the handbrake/rear brakes sticking on?
  3. a) IANAL b) I'm still not a lawyer c) Don't touch any of their logos, etc. They will have something like trademark protection. That said, you could probably remove them and they would have difficulty getting much legal leverage against you (but see below), but modify them, and you are in deep stuff (legally, of course). d) They could choose to argue that some Ferrari or another is so iconic that it constitutes an object which, of and by itself, has something like copyright protection. I think this is probably a difficult legal argument to make, but if they were successful in that, they have an action against you if you modify it from how it shipped from the factory. Not at all convinced that if you changed it from one standard factory colour to another, they would be successful against that (ie, it still looked exactly like a car that they shipped from their factory just a different car that they shipped from their factory from the one that you bought; I can't see how that would be degrading the brand value) but they'd probably try. (Colours can, of course, be copyrighted, but that protection would come in if you tried to use a Ferrari colour for something else; there is a danger though if you changed most of the colour that they could say 'it isn't as it left the factory any more, and is therefore not any longer a Ferrari, and therefore you have no rght to use that bit of Ferrari colour on it. Particularly if that were in a place that no one could see, you could consider that to be sneaky.) e) The large print giveth and the small print taketh away. Read the small print of any conditions imposed on you at the time that you purchased it. Don't believe that there is anything there that they might choose not to enforce, even if it is the most idiotic condition that you have ever seen. f) If you bought your Ferrari from another Ferrari owner (ie, second hand) and they didn't impose on you some conditions that their contract sad that they should have, imagine all sorts of stuff, largely involving enriching lawyers, taking place. The worst I can see is that they may be able to get your purchase of the Ferrari from the previous owner declared invalid, but that's pretty bad, particularly if you like Ferraris. In summary, don't make the mistake of thinking that they are not totally up themselves. That would be entirely wrong.
  4. That's some rust that isn't being cleaned up by the brake disks wearing that particular area. So, of and by itself that is not really a bad thing, per se. What may, or may not, be a problem s how the brake disks have worn in the 'shiny' areas: there will be a minimum thickness which, eg, an MoT tester would know and when you get down to, or near, that limit they are worn.
  5. speakers

    Those are convertors and not connectors, per se. Again the results depend a bit on how you use them: you have a high level out of your existing HU/amp and while you are far better off using an RCA (line level) out of your HU/amp, if you don't have one, you don't have one. These things are usually a pair of resistors connected as a potential divider. the temptation is to connect them by the HU and there are some problems with that. firstly any capacitance in the wiring to the other equipment acts as a low pass filter. That's not an issue if you are driving a sub - hey I've just filtered out some frequencies that weren't going to reproduce anyway - but may be, if you are driving a tweeter. Acting as a potential divider, these things should attenuate both wanted and unwanted signals equally. f the earth they are connected to is close to the HU any noise on that earth (signal with respect to the other earth - the earth at the input of the receiving amplifier) does not get attenuated, and then that amplfer amplifies it, that being its job.
  6. speakers

    If by in-line connectors you mean the Scotchlok 'Vampire Tap' type things, they probably aren't the most reliable things long term and are likely to be intermittent as the car gets older/has some moisture ingress, and that isn't likely to sound good. Also it depends a bit on how you use them; if vibration can put strain on them, that makes things worse, and if you pass the full speaker current through them (as opposed to just passing the minimal current to a high-ish impedance input) that could be worse too. And, there are different sizes for different wire gauges, and not everyone uses the right ones. Stripping the wire locally, and going to a soldered connection is always likely to be better, making the usual assumptions about strain relief, insulation, etc, etc. As to the wires, It Is likely that they are amongst the thicker wIres (power and ground likely to be the thickest) and that they are the same colours as the wIres that end up by the speakers (unless there s a split for any reason). Sorry, don't know more.
  7. To what extent would the problems that you have not be explained by a partial short in the cigarette lighter? Is the battery a decent one of the appropriate type? What voltages do you get a) off charge b) on charge (idle) with no load c) 2000 rpm wth some load (say, front heated window)
  8. I'd definitely say yes on that. A split turbo hose could reduce the back pressure in the exhaust and the back pressure in the exhaust partly controls the EGR quantity. Agree with Fastlife91 on the costs: you are getting annoyed about £800 for a £11 hose, when it could have been £800 for a £50 (guessing) EGR valve, and that would have been OK? There is a bigger problem here. OTOH, the £50 for the diagnostic check isn't that bad, considering my local want £80 to connect anything up, whether they do anything with the information, or not. Something else: If you were to take legal action (you haven't mentioned this but...) say through the small claims court who would be responsible? I think that it is the Dealer but if the root cause was that Ford provided inadequate diagnostics... I think that this is the Dealer's problem, rather than yours, but you'd want to check with someone who knows before proceeding.
  9. Usually, if the gearchange is particularly bad cold (on start up, in cold weather), then it is often the oil, and worth doing. If it isn't worse cold, then a bit more doubtful. Is this Ka the 2006 (by which time Ford were generally using better gb oil than, say, the earliest the Ka's and so oil changes were generally less pressing at low mileages in these later cars) of your sig?
  10. I don't think that your dusty substance _is_ your fault but if something has burnt out that could have caused that stuff to be deposited. You'll probably only find out once you get at the printed circuit board. That round pattern that looks as if it is something to do with the rpm/speed dials is just weird. I'm sure that there is a reason but it doesn't spring immediately to mind. The other thing to keep In mind Is that a lot of failures are caused by connections and wiring so it always worth looking there.
  11. "For cam belt, I would be inclined not to wait the extra 4k, do it now if in the slightest doubt! Expensive (or time consuming), but much more expensive if it goes!" I have to second that; for most people buying a car in this situation they will only change the cam belt once so it doesn't cost them any more to change it as soon as is sensible (like now). It might be an idea to lst what problems you still have after you've done this work because I'm getting a bit confused about which problems you still have and which have now gone away.
  12. Could be many things. Can you measure some voltages (off charge, on charge (nominally...with the engine running, so that it should be charging) with not much load and on charge (say 2000 rpm) but with a fairly heavy load, such as the heated front screen, on. At this point it could be the alternator not charging the battery properly (and there could be several reasons for that) the battery being shot and not having much capacity (very plausible given the age of the vehicle if it is the original battery or a totally unsuitable battery has been fitted) or something discharging the battery by taking a current when the vehicle is off; ideally you would want to narrow it down rather than just replacing things at random until something happens to work.
  13. This site with its non-functioning editing is a right pain! Anyway, although this doesn't help immediately, I think you ought to find a cheaper place to buy tyres.
  14. "...whether I go for Contis, but I've found the Contact 2 has apparently been superseded by the Contact 5..." There seems to be a danger of confusion. You were talking about the PremumContact 2s, and there are also EcoContacts (and Sportcontacts though possibly not in your size...and even WinterContacts although I am sure that they are not relevant). These are quite different tyres. You can still get PC2s, even if they mght be obsolescent, and given that they are more expensive than PC5s, usually, so I am not sure why you would. Mind you, the Contis are all a bit on the expensive side, so if you are worried about the cost maybe Contis should not be your first choice. (You might make the money back on the eco contacts over the life of the tyre with a longer tyre life and an improvement in fuel economy. Maybe. Although the grip is probably lower than the more mainstream options, so maybe you don't want that. The ZV7s seem to be decently priced; I'd think their competition would tyres le Barum Bravuris 3, Hanook Ventus Prime 3 125, Toyo Proxes CF2 (I didn't know the CF2 were avail in XL), Matador MP 47 Hectorra 3 (not a fuel economy choice), Vredestein Ultrac Satin might be a slightly more expensive but decent choce. Goodyear Efficient Grip Performance are available in your size, and while in principle, they are only a mild upgrade on the plain Efficient Grips the fact that they available in the higher load rating should mean that the sidewall bulges are a bt less likely. Yokohama BluEarth-A (AE50) ought to be decent, too. Dunlop Sport BluResponse or Pirelli Cinturato P7 Blue are probably as fuel economical as you are likely to get but are already a bit expensive with the Dunlops being quieter. Michelin Primacy 3 probably fairly similar but a bit less economical but a bit more expensive and bit longer life. by the time that you get to a Uniroyal Rainsport 3 you get to grippy tyres that wear out a bit quickly possbly wth less steering precision. I can't see the more obvious performance choices (GY Eagle F1 Assy 3 and 2 Dunlop RT2 and RT and Cont SC5) in this size but maybe haven't looked hard enough. In any case these are the grippy but higher wear options. You can get 93 and 97 (XL) rated tyres in that size and if you can I would definitely go for the 97s.
  15. I don't particularly like Goodyear EGs, but I'd be a lot happier if they were, say, £10 cheaper so take that in to account. Also I don't think that EGs are available in XL (not in my size anyway) and, certainly on the Mk 4, I feel that XLs are a better match than non-XLs. I did have a sidewall bulge on one of my EGs where the tyres at the other end of the car (Barum Bravuris 2s in XL/97) probably had a bigger impact with the object in the road than the EGs and they showed no problem. All that said,, the Conti PCs probably aren't Contis finest hour either (unless you like that kind of tyre) so I don't feel like I'm offering you easy options... Can you describe what you really want from your tyres, and say what size the tyres are please?