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    • Stoney871

      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

      it has been noted that too many Members are posting messages in the General Chat area instead of the correct Forums. Any messages posted in the General Chat area that are not General Chat will be deleted without warning and offenders may recieve warning points if repeated instances are seen from that Member. There are plenty of different Club areas that encompass 99% of Ford related posts, please select and use the correct one. If anyone is not sure of which area to post something then feel free to P/M myself or other Senior Staff for guidance. The Moderating Staff are having to spend far too much time chasing this problem instead of maintaining the other areas of the forum.


BOF

True Ford Enthusiast
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About BOF

  • Rank
    Too much time on the boards

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  • First Name
    Ford

Profile Information

  • Ford Model
    Mondeo
  • Ford Year
    2018
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Cambridgeshire

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  1. Tyre recommendations please - 1.8 petrol

    You are right that both exist and the 'efficient grip' is the older design. 'Performance' doesn't cover all the sizes that the older efficient grip did, so you don't necessarily have a choice.
  2. Tyre recommendations please - 1.8 petrol

    Drn the page that you ln "This tyre has been replaced by the Falken ZIEX ZE914 EcoRun" Eco always makes me a bit suspicious as it is often a sign that the manufacturer has gone a long way down the 'poor wet grip/lasts a lifetime' route. That said the newer Falken Azenis FK510 has had good reviews. No, but I do know about the Brav 2's. Barum is owned/part owned by Continental and they make very decent budget tyres. The 2's are a bit noisy when fitted at the back (actually a lot noisy on certain road surfaces and on the back of a Mondeo but fine at the front) but are otherwise similar to a 'poor man's SportContact 3'. The production qualty is very good - well above average - but the tyre design does not have the sophistication of some. I'm confused about the difference between the HM and non-HM (High Mileage...but what actually changes???) versions, but I'd still bet on these being a decent budget option. Another tyre that has received good comments is the Firestone RoadHawk (and exactly none of the earlier Firestones). BrIdgestone/FIirestone have taken a step forward with their latest designs. User comments on wear seem below average but some of those comments seem to have been made before the tyre was actually released... Hankook are always good for a well-priced option and don't forget the Nokian Z-LIne. I've had the Goodyear Efficient Grips and can't say I was all that impressed.They are not available in XL (which is my preference because of sidewall stiffness and on a Mondeo...well, its a heavy lump) they don't grip as well as an F1 assy 2 don't really last longer and they are more expensive. And the F1 assy 3 is improved from the 2. And they are a bit delicate...maybe an XL version would be better but you can't buy that. Or a tenner cheaper would gve them an advantage over an F1 Assy 3. If you did want a Goodyear group tyre (and they do tend to be good on fuel economy) and the F1 assy 3 is too much for you a Fulda SportControl 2 might do the trick.
  3. It is quite plausible that if you have fumes under the bonnet they only get into the cab when stationary. I had something similar when my injectors were leaking.
  4. Servicing.

    That's the 'Ford Service' which does still include the mobility insurance. The over four years 'Motorcraft' service - which is the cheaper one - doesn't as far as I can tell - although there seems to have been the possibility of negotiating or paying an admin fee for it, although that may have just been a transitional arrangement.
  5. Tyres?? Which ones.

    If you liked the PC5 you'll probably like the PC6 even more and they are only a couple of quid more if you shop around. Maybe there is something more suitable for you but you don't say what you want.
  6. MOT advisory/car squeak

    These are probably mostly unrelated to the advisories. The const velocity gaiter needs doing before it does allow grit in because that wll destroy the CV joint after a while and increase the expense. generally though this doesn't cause a screeching unless it is very severely gone and it would be worse when you go round corners in one direction. Brakes can screech but it generally does change depending on whether you are braking or not. Something else that does screech is a slipping drive belt. This does sound horrendous and isn't the most serious thing in the world (you can drive with it for a while) but the charging of the electrical system will be a bit limited. Usually the cure involves cleaning the affected belt (if eg oil has leaked on to it) or tightening the belt. Eventually the belt could need replacing but that doesn't happen much these days. This could be related to the oil leak of course but may not be; it is also usually worse shortly after starting (and may go away if you blip the throttle) when you have high electrical loads and when the weather is wet. If the mechanic genuinely said 'axle grease' you can stop trusting him straight away. As implied earlier it should be specialist brake grease either 'copper grease' or 'ceramic grease' although I suspect that it isn't brakes at all causing the noise unless it depends on braking. The engine check light is a bit worrying; is a service overdue? What about the oil level (partic with the leak)?
  7. Service -110,000 miles

    I have to say that when mine went at 115k, I swore. Get it done.
  8. Engine change over

    I thought that was only if you still had an engine approved to the same emissions standards, which this wouldn't be. They ought to check the engine code on an MoT, although possibly in practice they don't.
  9. Engine change over

    It is very probably possible but the amount of aggro involved could be anywhere from hardly any to almost infinite. This is quite a range. If you can get the two wiring diagrams and trace them through to ensure that the same (nominal) connections were made that would be a good start. But you only have to run in to something like an air con module which has an output that works differently and you could have a car that stalls every time that you change gear with the air con on. And it could be all sorts of other things apart from a/c. Now having done that to make it legal for the road you have to get type approval. Here there will be a much more thorough test than an MoT. Now you could argue that with a relatively simple change like this it ought not to be too bad but don't know of any route that gets you a simpler test. And then there is insurance but that will need the approval and once you've got that they should only charge you money...
  10. Bedding in new discs and pads

    Well just having been through this with a Racecar (on carbon pads/steel disks) I'd say that some of the recommended procedures can be a little excessive. I think the thing that you are aiming for is to gradually build the temperature up and not get them red hot on the first few cycles. And if you do overheat them (ie have to do an emergency stop procedure or have an accident) you want to get them back cool as soon as possible and without clamping the brakes on afterwards. I would say that because I think that it is high temps across the whole pad that you are trying to avoid that, while it might not be desirable, you can probably get away with short sharp prods at the brakes at any time, but I could be wrong.
  11. Event tyres are noisy

    http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Event/WL905.htm Well you don't say which tyres they are but if they were Event WL905s you might want to read that link. What is worth noting is that people are not complaining about the noise because they are complaining about things that might kill them. And these are Event's 'Ultra Hgh Performance' tyres so what the ones less targeted at performance are like....!
  12. Thinking of changing the car

    I have had a Yaris (briefly) as a hire car and while it was quite nice to drive (quiet comfortable) the 1337 petrol engine didn't have much guts and it wasn't very economical. And you really want the top model to get the reversing camera/infotainment/sat nav touch screen affair. Maybe the Diesel Is better.... Ecoboost sounds good to me.
  13. Is your vehicle battery really that bad? The cig lighter on stays on for ~20 mins after the ignition goes off.
  14. My aerial blew off!!!

    My belief from what have around the forums s that the Mk4.5 uses patch antennas on the rear three quarter light windows. The front windscreen heater acts as an RF shield and that's a bad thing if you actually want to receive the signal. The hrw also acts as a shield but will be effective at a slightly different frequency range and to a slightly different degree. So you can see the attraction of using the quarter lights. thin the Ford approach uses both and the system intelligently switches between the two depending on which has the best signal. To do this you probably need the Ford HU from the Mk4.5 (and maybe other bits, if there is a pre-amplifier which there may well be). I also thought about a 'sharksfin' but went off the idea once I realised that my insurance would charge me extra for it.
  15. Non start

    I'd say it is possible but I wouldn't really like to go much further than that. It could cause the glow plugs not to come on (not that they come on much above arctic temperatures) and it could cause the fueling to be wrong. Really I'd have expected it to still start but with some difficulty.