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cragger89

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    81
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About cragger89

  • Rank
    Settling In Well
  • Birthday 01/22/1989

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Craig

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Mk3 Mondeo Ghia, 2.0l
  • Ford Year
    2006
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Lincolnshire
  • Annual Mileage
    10,001 to 15,000
  • Interests
    General Automotive
    Road Trips
    Food & Drink
    Health & Beauty

Previous Fields

  • Location
    Boston, Lincolnshire
  1. No one? The speakers arrive this week so I've ordered a drivers door mechanism in case taking the existing one apart and cleaning it, then putting it all back together proves unfruitful. I'll update the post with my findings in case someone else has the same symptoms on their Mondeo in the future.
  2. Is anyone able to say whether I should just replace the driver door mechanism or not? I'm fairly sure I have narrowed it down enough to confirm this is what I should do, but would be beneficial for my sanity if anyone could offer advice.
  3. Guys, I've started a project on my 2006 Mondeo which is mainly revolving around audio, but because of that, I want to tackle some locking issues I have. The most annoying is, the boot lid button does not work. It does open reliably from the key fob and very occasionally, it does open from the button on the boot lid itself. I have put the car into a test mode (Holding down the heated screen button whilst turning the ignition to position II) - pressing the boot lid button does emit a beep, so the switch is working. Note that when the ignition is on, the fob will not open the boot, so I have to stop the engine and take the key out. Using the fob, all the doors unlock and lock/dead lock reliably. If I lock the doors before setting off on a journey from the drivers door, all the doors lock. However, on opening the drivers door, none of the other doors unlock like they used to. Please see the notes beneath, I wonder if it is a setting which needs to be re-done since I disconnected the door entirely? The drivers door recently sporadically kept "unlocking" whilst driving, I disconnected and reconnected the cables between the door and the body of the car and that problem stopped. This also resolved a problem I had with getting the front driver side window to close, sometimes I had to open the door and close it to get the close button to take effect, clearly there was a connection problem. Lastly, occasionally, my wife says I haven't unlocked the passenger door when I actually have the entire car unlocked. Very often I go round in a huff to open it and don't experience an issue and she goes red in the face - is it likely something has become dislodged? Because I will soon be taking the front door cards off to fit new speakers, I would like to replace any parts at the same time to minimise time spent having the car in bits. The boot lid is what I want to sort and I have read that it can be related to the driver door mechanism. It is !Removed! irritating, today when dropping the Mrs and her Mum off at the shops and going to pick her up, I had to stop and start the engine 5 times to open the boot with the keyfob, ARGH!
  4. Not strictly today, but Saturday saw the long anticipated removal of the swirl flaps from the 2l Duratec engine on my Mondeo. This weekend, giving it the long overdue service, inclusive of spark plugs. Looking forward to giving it some TLC, it's done nearly 3k miles since I bought it in September and it has performed admirably.
  5. I sorted mine over the weekend. Wasn't the simple plug and play solution. My jet was actually blocked, nothing would resolve the block, so I've ordered a replacement but for the time being, drilled a hole using a 3mm bit through it so I can at least use the rear washer system properly! Thanks for the tips on where to find the pipework, though. It meant I could disconnect it where it usually falls off and test it was working, which it was.
  6. I will check mine shortly as this is the only gadget that needs attention now.
  7. Hi! I did suspect that myself, but all of the other gadgets work perfectly. I did find the connectors I mentioned earlier and shorted pins 1 & 4, but the compressor still did not kick in. When pressing the A/C button I did hear the fan start up, so I think I've narrowed it down to just being the compressor.
  8. Replacing the stereo is straight forward, just order the correct fascia kit, wiring loom and tools to remove the old one. I'm leaving the 6 CD Sony unit in mine as it has an aux input in the glovebox anyway. Never driven an X-Type but I have a friend who drives an S type and his Dad has driven Jags for a few years before as well and both have no complaints. I believe they are underneath the stuff we actually see, a Mondeo. I guess it'd be like an ST Mondeo but with a LOT more luxury in it.
  9. Definitely useful mods. I bought mine due to being made redundant, so it's replaced a 60 plate ford focus sport (nothing sporty about it, but it was named as such to empty the inventory of extras when making way for the Mk3 focus) I would eventually like to go for a camera on the back - I used to have parking sensors on the focus and although I've had no problem with parking the Mondy so far, I do miss having the information there. The car I drove before the focus was a BMW 316i (E46) and the Mondeo is very reminiscent of it, except it is much more fun to the drive. Absolutely itching to take it for a long run somewhere!
  10. There are indeed lots of cool extras with the Ghia. Bar the Air conditioning on mine, everything appears to work, but am waiting for a chilly morning to test the heated glass.
  11. I was of the impression these air con regas machines were just self automated once connected and the cycle button has been pressed? The thing is, ATS haven't charged me because it didn't work, I don't really want to go to an independent and risk them charging me to regas it if it doesn't work still. Not saying your experience isn't true, but I just have doubts that in my situation it's going to be resolved by getting it regassed again, although it would be nice!
  12. A link to guide you on how to remove them: http://www.talkford.com/topic/201881-20-inlet-flaps-removal/ The way my simpleton mind has understood it, the flaps are there for the same reasons as they are on the BMW and Vauxhall engines which also have them. When working correctly, they direct air "better" which aids with emissions and economy. The problem is, even on the "revised" mechanism which I believe was seen on the facelift models, they still wear out and rattle and eventually can just fall in to the block. I rang a garage asking if they would do the work outlined in that guide but said "No it won't work as it revs too high when they aren't there, we'd need to fit a new manifold for you" - they're lying and just didn't want to do it. Once I've plucked up the courage I'm going to do it myself next week - I've bought mine to save £220 a month on owning a newer car, so losing a tiny bit of MPG vs having to replace an engine is definitely the wisest thing to do in my opinion.
  13. This is just a passage based on taste, but I would probably go for the Ghia because I simply am a gadget lover. If the LX is a face lift, you may find it has the extra toys you prefer as standard. It'd be more sensible to go and view them both, listen to them from startup cold. My one needs the swirl flaps (not sure if that is the official label for them) either removing or changing as it sounds a bit like the old overhead cam engines (or a sewing machine!) due to them wearing out. What i've done to prevent them disintegrating totally and ruining the engine is just disable them by disconnecting the air pipe that operates them and sealing it until I can get to my mechanic friend to have them removed. Once disabled, they are locked in the "open" position, but most importantly, won't be flapping around causing more wear. It just gives you more confidence to drive it around until it can be sorted. If one of them has the noise and one doesn't, go for the one that doesn't. There is a lot of information on them, but in a nut shell, it is a bit of work you can do yourself and the engines run perfectly fine with the flaps removed. Other rules apply as well obviously, check A/C works, listen for knocks when cold. :)
  14. Hi mate, I'm not as tall, but I did used to have a 60 plate focus and I required the seat to be as far back as it'd go. I now have a 56 plate Mondeo (same model as you're looking at) and have noticed the seat goes back a lot further. I used to have a Mk1 focus which I had to have the seat all the way back on, too. I think you'd be safe, but find one and sit in it to be sure.