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Phili Smith

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    31
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Phili Smith

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Focus TD DI Estate
  • Ford Year
    2005
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Tyne & Wear
  • Annual Mileage
    5001 to 10,000
  • Interests
    General Automotive

Previous Fields

  • Location
    Sunderland
  1. Sorry if this seems a very delayed response/update but I have found another issue with the Ford charging system, it appears that the modern ford charging system runs through the ECU and if the ecu "thinks" alternator is overcharging it turns the charge off! Now I understand that this is a safety precaution (as the alternator can create suprisingly high voltages) but I have found (on my car at least) if the plug carrying the small wires has got water ingress, and consequent rust, this fault occurs, the obd reader shows the system as "overcharging" so it shuts the alternator down and does not charge at all. Unplugged the small loom (one plug) spray socket and plug with WD40, plug and unplug the loom a few times, another spray and plug back in! Problem has not reared its ugly head for several months now!! Hope this saves people a few quid!!
  2. Hi Phil Have you solved this? I have a Focus ST coming apart this week (no special bits likely to come my way but) should have your fan resistor unit very soon next weekend hopefully! I have to romove the alarm system and a few bits and pieces so I get the odd freebee! Send me a pm with your details if you still want it. Phil
  3. You would need coil spring compression tools to do the job yourself as the spring mounts roung shock absorber, they cost around £25 each (and you realy should replace them as a pair) but the job is not that big and should be done in around an hour (with the right tools) I would expect quite a bit of change from £100 Phil
  4. I can't see how the insrument cluster caused your problem, my car starts and runs without the cluster even in! I took it out to replace bulbs, discovered I did not have correct spares so drove to the parts shop to get them before refitting I know I didn't have a speedo officer but I thought less than a mile I would be ok :D The only way I could see a problem coming from the cluster is if you had a short, but if that is what garage claim I guess it could be true. Glad to hear you are back on the road Phil
  5. Ok then you do have a slightly different problem. First replace pollen filter and replace the heater blower resistor unit (it is possible for the individual resistors to go down) but hold off for a week or two I might be able to get you a resistor unit for the cost of postage (no promises but I will try, a friend of mine regularly breaks them) but please replace pollen filter, they only cost a few quid (mine was £4.00 from a regular motorparts shop) it will save you masses of problems in the future. Phil
  6. Does your blower motor work on 4? if not you have a different problem Have you tested fuse since replacing to make sure it has not blown again? Have you checked your pollen filter? Have you got wet carpets in the footwell? Reasons behind above questions:- If blower does not work on 4 then the motor is not working (check/replace fuse try blowers again and recheck fuse) if it has blown then you have a problem with motor it is worth taking it out and spinning it manually, that fixed mine (after a little lubrication) If the thermal fuse blew again immediately I suggest that you may have either a problem with your motor (see above) the pollen filter is blocked or the seal on the bottom of your windscreem has gone allowing water in through the heating ducts/pollen filter housing (this explains wet carpets) and allows water into fan unit, removal spin up and a good dose of WD40 might even fix that for you. The thermal fuse will get damned hot and blow if the resistance in the motor is too high. sorry to be the bearer of bad news but the seal thing can be the worst meaning you HAVE to replace the motor but the good news is 95% of time you can still get away without buying a new heater blower resistor, simply do the maplins fix again. Phil
  7. I got a bit more involved than that and crimped the new fuse in place (after blowing first one ) but as you say same idea (I'd just run out of small terminal block (and I was not going to pay maplins price for that!) Phil
  8. I was talking to a taxi driver the other night about blown lights he claims Halfords do some specifically for high milage/night time drivers like taxis he swears by them but as I have not seen them in action (other than on his car) and I had consumed a few alcoholic beverages so I doubt they are as bling as some of the guys here want. Personally I would rather see and be seen I might just check them out but if they are as good as he claims I doubt I will ever get to the milage to report back. mind I might just investigate my own bulbs as mine is ex taxi too and it has covered LOTS of miles! over 300k and as the car was on the same company and rank as the driver who took me home he may have a point. Phil
  9. Damned speed bumps! cost us honest motorists a fortune in broken suspension. the joy riders don't care they don't own the car anyway! Phil
  10. Oh and Kev is correct DO NOT DRIVE your car till you have this checked out. I personally would take the battery off and get a mate to take me to an accessory shop/garage and get them to check it Phil
  11. Need more info The light you refer to is your immobiliser system kicking in could be a few reasons, as Kev says it could be a broken earth or it could be down to a faulty immobiliser chip in your key, (try driving with the spare) alternately it could be down to your battery dying (a silver calcide battery dies very strangely, it will work for a few hours, days or weeks then decide to stop) get a drop test done on it, answer is yes/no fine/faulty (need new battery) Buy a decent one but be warned you will be lucky to get 6 years from a silver calcide battery (and your car will NOT work with anything else) The other thing to look at would be your fuel pump but this is unlikely as it would not (normally) trigger your immobiliser circuit. NOTE SOME MANUFACTURERS CALL THESE BATTERIES SILVER OXIDE BUT THEY ARE SAME. Phil
  12. Hi Charlie Just reading this thread I noticed your question about fuses has gone unanswered. Now I don't know a lot about lots, but I know LOTS about some things! Simple if you are fitting extras not designed to be run through the fuse it is connected to, fit an extra inline! it will save a masive ammount of grief in the future. not saying it WILL happen BUT it could, wiring firesinterferance on diagnostics and sudden power losses are but a few of your potential problems. I have seen cars go up in smoke that a few pence would have prevented! From a guy who does lots of electrical work take a tip and fit fuses (the smaller the better) much better your bling appears less bright than you are sitting waiting for the fire brigade and watching your pride and joy burn! A fuse is about 20 pence! how much is your car worth? and remember Mr ford may have fitted a 40 amp fuse in the supply you are only taking 2 amps from! your extras are not protected. Phil
  13. Take yourself to a decent car audio dealer, the ones I know can obtain your code from the serial nubers on the side of the set in seconds, and for a very reasonable price too. I go to a friend who runs a garage he rings his mate at the radio shop and I have the code in seconds (though you do need to take it out again, sorry) Phil
  14. I will vouch for Stead's comment about repairing unit as I did it myself yesterday! unfortunately I encoutered a slight problem with the new thermal fuses supplied by Maplin, partially my own fault as I got into a discussion with salesman taking my eye off the ball and allowing him to sell me wrong ones, 120 degrees instead of 220! this proved a real pain when I soldered it into place as it takes around 170 degrees to menlt solder! result I blew first one straight away but came up with a solution to use the second one I used some cut down spade connectors and simply crimped the new one on result blowers now work perfectly. I can do a step by step guide if anyone is interested. Phil
  15. No it's not that unusual for them both to blow in relativly close succession, think of it this way a bulb goes due to the ammount of hours it has burned and the ammount of vibration it has endured (the fillament has a finate lifespan) one has gone as the lifespan has been exceded, the other one is exactly the same age and has gone through the same ammount of burn hours (and the vibration as well) In short don't worry it is perfectly normal. I frequently tell people with only one light on the risks they are running as it is likely (just like you) that the working one is about go. Phil