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orangeboy

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    84
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About orangeboy

  • Rank
    Settling In Well
  • Birthday

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Focus Titanium 1.8 TDCI
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Peeblesshire
  • Annual Mileage
    0 to 5000
  1. This is one thing that puts me off going down that route. If I fit a new actuator, I assume it doesn't need programming or coding to the car? One other remedy I was thinking of was that if the mechanical valve was stuck or sticky, and I could not free this off, then it would mean a new manifold. If I was to modify the quadrant gear on the actuator so it didn't actually make contact with the mechanical valve, but the motor still was able to operate, would this be an option? It would think the valve is opening but it actually wasn't. The only thing that would put a halt on this would be if there was a sensor in the manifold/valve itself or the actuator could detect there wasn't any mechanical resistance so it knew there was something wrong. I suppose this way the valve would remain closed but maybe thats not such a bad thing. Do any of you guys know if this is possible?
  2. The EGR is built into the manifold, so must be a complete unit. I think I'm correct in saying that it also uses the same fixings as the exhaust manifold/turbo do its quite an involved job and not one I would consider on my driveway. Even if I had £1096 sitting doing nothing, I'm not sure I'd like to spend it on this. Peter, the actuator you talked about, did you have to but any gaskets etc? My engine is a 1.8 TDCI "Lynx", and it looks like there is easy access to this part. The really annoying thing is I blanked the EGR about 3 years ago, without issue until now. Thanks once again for the replies, appreciated.
  3. The EGR is built into the manifold, so must be a complete unit. I think I'm correct in saying that it also uses the same fixings as the exhaust manifold/turbo do its quite an involved job and not one I would consider on my driveway. Even if I had £1096 sitting doing nothing, I'm not sure I'd like to spend it on this. Peter, the actuator you talked about, did you have to but any gaskets etc? My engine is a 1.8 TDCI "Lynx", and it looks like there is easy access to this part. The really annoying thing is I blanked the EGR about 3 years ago, without issue until now. Thanks once again for the replies, appreciated.
  4. Really appreciate the replies. It's not been the best of starts to 2017 between one thing and another! My car is a 1.8tdci, and it's been in the Ford dealership today. The fault code showing up is PO409. They have tried cleaning the EGR and checked all the wiring etc but no joy, and I'm £216 lighter for their trouble. They have quoted £1096 for a new monifold / EGR fitted and I simply can't afford that. One option that sprung to mind was having the EGR deleted from the ECU. I'm not sure what the cost of that would be but surely can't be as much as a new EGR. I'm at the stage now I don't know what to do. Leave it? Repair it? Sell it? Trouble is I can't really afford a new car at the minute. Friday 13th strikes again!
  5. My Focus has thrown up a fault relating to the EGR valve. The garage have called to say they will have a go at cleaning it, but if that fails then it's a £1000 plus bill fora new inlet manifold / EGR. Are there any other options? I can't really afford that kind of money. Annoying thing is it's been blanked. Brian.
  6. All done and all went well. New Brembo pads and discs from Euro Car Parts, and even had time to paint the callipers. Saved £163 over the Ford Dealer quote...
  7. Thanks for the replies. I'm going the job tomorrow so by hand and slowly it is. Brian.
  8. Hi folks, I'm replacing the front discs and pads on my Focus. I've done this many times in the past to previous cars, and normally I would push the piston back into the caliper gently to allow for the new pads. However, I glanced at the workshop manual and it states not to do this but to open the bleed screw as the reverse flow of fluid in the system could flip the seals in the master cylinder. Is this normal practice? I've never heard of doing it this way before. Brian.
  9. I had that on my car, 1.8 tdci, and it was a split intercooler. I would check all the pipes to and from the intercooler first. Get your better half to press the accelerator whilst you listen under the bonnet.
  10. Just an update on the problem I was having. Had the car back into the local Ford Dealer, and after a lot od investigation it turns out it was indeed the ABS module that was at fault. The module is split into 2 parts: a mechanical side and an electronic side. The fault on my car was with the mechanical side which houses the valves for the brake lines. Because of this no fault was being thrown up by the electronic side, and as a result no fault codes were stored and no lights were illuminated. The constant clicking I could hear was the motor on the pump operating to build back up the pressure back up in the valve, which was leaking away. The "block" as the call it came in at £182 + vat plus fitting - a lot cheaper than the whole module. So, the issue is now resolved! Thanks to all those who replied! Brian.
  11. Had the Ford Dealership on the phone today, and it's booked back in on Tuesday for further diagnostics. The chap I spoke to said it could be the pressure in the ABS module dropping, which would mean a new module...gulp! He also said it could be the magnetic ring within the wheel bearing, which has maybe corroded, as was suggested above by iantt
  12. I've not had the speed sensor replaced, only the wheel sensors. Is the speed sensor on the gearbox? Did you replace it yourself, was it difficult?
  13. Yes, as soon as the brakes are applied, even a little the abs kick in with the pedal pulsing and the pump operating. I will recheck sensors again but the dealer said they were all ok on the IDS system. I understand that my car, a Mk 2.5 uses a magnetic ring instead of a toothed ring. I did check the wheel bearings but they were smooth with no play, so thought that they couldn't be the issue. ..could they?
  14. I'm having issues with the ABS system on my Focus. I had issues with the light coming on about 4 weeks ago, and put it into my Ford Dealership who linked the car up to the IDS system and it was diagnosed as front wheel sensors. These were replaced and the system bled via the IDS system and the light issue was sorted. However, I now have the symptoms of the ABS pump activates each time I press the brake pedal. Even under light braking the pump will operate. The ABS light remains out, and no fault codes are stored. Today I thought it might be the brake light switch so replaced that, and I also disconnected both fuse boxes and the ABS pump quad lock connector in case there was moisture or corrosion in the connectors, but the issue remains. Have any of you guys heard of or experienced this issue? Why should the ABS pump think a wheel is locking when it's not? What else could I try? Any help would be appreciated. Brian.
  15. Didn't think of that, I'll give it a try. I can hear the abs pump working more than usual, same sound as you get when reaching over 12mph and it goes through it's self check. Thanks for the reply. Brian.