orangeboy

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    86
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About orangeboy

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Brian

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Focus Titanium 1.8 TDCI
  • Ford Year
    2008
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Peeblesshire

Recent Profile Visitors

2,032 profile views
  1. Rust!

    My car was repainted this time last year. Cost was about £250 for both the rear arches to be done. However it has started again on the drivers side. I've has this problem fixed 3 times now. I'm not sure what the problem with the rear arches is, but think its a combination on the felt arch liner holding moisture next to the metal, and if the rear bumper moves or vibrates then it could scuff the paint off allowing moisture to get in in the area where the bumper and the wheel arch meet. One thing that seems to have slowed the rust down is that I've plastered the inside lip of both rear arches with Dinatrol cavity wax that I got from Amazon. This stuff seems to be much better than Waxoyl although it is messy to apply. It would be good it vulnerable areas such as this wee galvanized, but to the best of my knowledge the Focus Mk 2.5 inst galvanized at all. The really annoying thing is that I've seen much older cars from other manufacturers with no rust at all.
  2. EGR options

    Just thought I'd give an update on this issue. I decided to purchase a new actuator as i didn't have the confidence to take the old one apart. When fitting it the valve itself was fine and i could open and close it by hand. So no stuck valve as the Ford Dealership suggested. Since fitting the new actuator I've had no issues and no EML, but I'm still not counting my chickens, just yet. It was an aftermarket part, and I'm not sure Ford sell the actuator separately. Thanks to TDCI Peter, you probably saved me the best part of £1000. And as for the Ford Dealership, well I now use an independent. Brian
  3. EGR options

    This is one thing that puts me off going down that route. If I fit a new actuator, I assume it doesn't need programming or coding to the car? One other remedy I was thinking of was that if the mechanical valve was stuck or sticky, and I could not free this off, then it would mean a new manifold. If I was to modify the quadrant gear on the actuator so it didn't actually make contact with the mechanical valve, but the motor still was able to operate, would this be an option? It would think the valve is opening but it actually wasn't. The only thing that would put a halt on this would be if there was a sensor in the manifold/valve itself or the actuator could detect there wasn't any mechanical resistance so it knew there was something wrong. I suppose this way the valve would remain closed but maybe thats not such a bad thing. Do any of you guys know if this is possible?
  4. EGR options

    The EGR is built into the manifold, so must be a complete unit. I think I'm correct in saying that it also uses the same fixings as the exhaust manifold/turbo do its quite an involved job and not one I would consider on my driveway. Even if I had £1096 sitting doing nothing, I'm not sure I'd like to spend it on this. Peter, the actuator you talked about, did you have to but any gaskets etc? My engine is a 1.8 TDCI "Lynx", and it looks like there is easy access to this part. The really annoying thing is I blanked the EGR about 3 years ago, without issue until now. Thanks once again for the replies, appreciated.
  5. EGR options

    The EGR is built into the manifold, so must be a complete unit. I think I'm correct in saying that it also uses the same fixings as the exhaust manifold/turbo do its quite an involved job and not one I would consider on my driveway. Even if I had £1096 sitting doing nothing, I'm not sure I'd like to spend it on this. Peter, the actuator you talked about, did you have to but any gaskets etc? My engine is a 1.8 TDCI "Lynx", and it looks like there is easy access to this part. The really annoying thing is I blanked the EGR about 3 years ago, without issue until now. Thanks once again for the replies, appreciated.
  6. EGR options

    Really appreciate the replies. It's not been the best of starts to 2017 between one thing and another! My car is a 1.8tdci, and it's been in the Ford dealership today. The fault code showing up is PO409. They have tried cleaning the EGR and checked all the wiring etc but no joy, and I'm £216 lighter for their trouble. They have quoted £1096 for a new monifold / EGR fitted and I simply can't afford that. One option that sprung to mind was having the EGR deleted from the ECU. I'm not sure what the cost of that would be but surely can't be as much as a new EGR. I'm at the stage now I don't know what to do. Leave it? Repair it? Sell it? Trouble is I can't really afford a new car at the minute. Friday 13th strikes again!
  7. EGR options

    My Focus has thrown up a fault relating to the EGR valve. The garage have called to say they will have a go at cleaning it, but if that fails then it's a £1000 plus bill fora new inlet manifold / EGR. Are there any other options? I can't really afford that kind of money. Annoying thing is it's been blanked. Brian.
  8. Brake pad replacement

    All done and all went well. New Brembo pads and discs from Euro Car Parts, and even had time to paint the callipers. Saved £163 over the Ford Dealer quote...
  9. Brake pad replacement

    Thanks for the replies. I'm going the job tomorrow so by hand and slowly it is. Brian.
  10. Brake pad replacement

    Hi folks, I'm replacing the front discs and pads on my Focus. I've done this many times in the past to previous cars, and normally I would push the piston back into the caliper gently to allow for the new pads. However, I glanced at the workshop manual and it states not to do this but to open the bleed screw as the reverse flow of fluid in the system could flip the seals in the master cylinder. Is this normal practice? I've never heard of doing it this way before. Brian.
  11. Hiss With Accelerator

    I had that on my car, 1.8 tdci, and it was a split intercooler. I would check all the pipes to and from the intercooler first. Get your better half to press the accelerator whilst you listen under the bonnet.
  12. Abs Problem

    Just an update on the problem I was having. Had the car back into the local Ford Dealer, and after a lot od investigation it turns out it was indeed the ABS module that was at fault. The module is split into 2 parts: a mechanical side and an electronic side. The fault on my car was with the mechanical side which houses the valves for the brake lines. Because of this no fault was being thrown up by the electronic side, and as a result no fault codes were stored and no lights were illuminated. The constant clicking I could hear was the motor on the pump operating to build back up the pressure back up in the valve, which was leaking away. The "block" as the call it came in at £182 + vat plus fitting - a lot cheaper than the whole module. So, the issue is now resolved! Thanks to all those who replied! Brian.
  13. Abs Problem

    Had the Ford Dealership on the phone today, and it's booked back in on Tuesday for further diagnostics. The chap I spoke to said it could be the pressure in the ABS module dropping, which would mean a new module...gulp! He also said it could be the magnetic ring within the wheel bearing, which has maybe corroded, as was suggested above by iantt
  14. Abs Problem

    I've not had the speed sensor replaced, only the wheel sensors. Is the speed sensor on the gearbox? Did you replace it yourself, was it difficult?
  15. Abs Problem

    Yes, as soon as the brakes are applied, even a little the abs kick in with the pedal pulsing and the pump operating. I will recheck sensors again but the dealer said they were all ok on the IDS system. I understand that my car, a Mk 2.5 uses a magnetic ring instead of a toothed ring. I did check the wheel bearings but they were smooth with no play, so thought that they couldn't be the issue. ..could they?