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About orangeboy

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    Settling In Well

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  • Gender*
  • Ford Model
    Focus Titanium 1.8 TDCI
  • UK/Ireland Location
  • Annual Mileage
    0 to 5000
  1. I had that on my car, 1.8 tdci, and it was a split intercooler. I would check all the pipes to and from the intercooler first. Get your better half to press the accelerator whilst you listen under the bonnet.
  2. Just an update on the problem I was having. Had the car back into the local Ford Dealer, and after a lot od investigation it turns out it was indeed the ABS module that was at fault. The module is split into 2 parts: a mechanical side and an electronic side. The fault on my car was with the mechanical side which houses the valves for the brake lines. Because of this no fault was being thrown up by the electronic side, and as a result no fault codes were stored and no lights were illuminated. The constant clicking I could hear was the motor on the pump operating to build back up the pressure back up in the valve, which was leaking away. The "block" as the call it came in at £182 + vat plus fitting - a lot cheaper than the whole module. So, the issue is now resolved! Thanks to all those who replied! Brian.
  3. Had the Ford Dealership on the phone today, and it's booked back in on Tuesday for further diagnostics. The chap I spoke to said it could be the pressure in the ABS module dropping, which would mean a new module...gulp! He also said it could be the magnetic ring within the wheel bearing, which has maybe corroded, as was suggested above by iantt
  4. I've not had the speed sensor replaced, only the wheel sensors. Is the speed sensor on the gearbox? Did you replace it yourself, was it difficult?
  5. Yes, as soon as the brakes are applied, even a little the abs kick in with the pedal pulsing and the pump operating. I will recheck sensors again but the dealer said they were all ok on the IDS system. I understand that my car, a Mk 2.5 uses a magnetic ring instead of a toothed ring. I did check the wheel bearings but they were smooth with no play, so thought that they couldn't be the issue. ..could they?
  6. I'm having issues with the ABS system on my Focus. I had issues with the light coming on about 4 weeks ago, and put it into my Ford Dealership who linked the car up to the IDS system and it was diagnosed as front wheel sensors. These were replaced and the system bled via the IDS system and the light issue was sorted. However, I now have the symptoms of the ABS pump activates each time I press the brake pedal. Even under light braking the pump will operate. The ABS light remains out, and no fault codes are stored. Today I thought it might be the brake light switch so replaced that, and I also disconnected both fuse boxes and the ABS pump quad lock connector in case there was moisture or corrosion in the connectors, but the issue remains. Have any of you guys heard of or experienced this issue? Why should the ABS pump think a wheel is locking when it's not? What else could I try? Any help would be appreciated. Brian.
  7. Didn't think of that, I'll give it a try. I can hear the abs pump working more than usual, same sound as you get when reaching over 12mph and it goes through it's self check. Thanks for the reply. Brian.
  8. Hold the bus, just when I thought my worries were over all the symptoms are back today. Really disappointed as it would seem I spent money on something I don't need. I'm convinced now its the abs pump. Has anyone else had this fail? What were the symptoms? I'm preparing myself for a whopping repair bill, I've heard reports of over £1000 for replacement. Brian
  9. Thought you all might like to know where I am at. Had the Focus into my Ford Dealer and came back with no fault found. The changed all the wheel sensors, but the problem persists. Then, I was chatting to a guy at work who has his own garage. I described the symptoms, and he was convinced it was the battery that was on its way out. He suggested that I turn on the engine, and all high load items such as lights, heated screens etc. If the voltage at the battery was above 13.5v he was sure it would be the battery. It was 14.5v. New battery fitted, and all cured. Seemingly when the PCM detects low battery voltage it can throw up all sorts of weird fault codes. So if you guys ever get the same weird behaviour, you'll know where yo look. Brian.
  10. Thanks for the replies. Checked the alternator and appears to be the correct one by the plate on it. No the battery was not replaced. I have it booked into my Ford Dealer on Thursday, so I'll keep you posted on the outcome. I have read though that these are classic signs of the abs pump / module going....gulp. At over £700 for a new one plus fitting it might not be such a happy new year!
  11. Hi all, I have a 2008 Titanium 1.8 tdci, and the week before Christmas the battery light came on whilst driving home from work. I took it to a local garage who said it was the alternator and replaced it. All was well for about a week, then went out to start it on a particularly cold morning, and as soon as I turned on the ignition, but without actually starting the engine, the speedo needle started jumping up to about the 20mph mark and the seatbelt warning started beeping. It started ok, but when driving the engine was stuttering and the abs and esp lights came on. The stuttering cleared, but the lights stayed on. Over the past week some or all of the symptoms have continued, not all at the same time, but sometimes are. Sometimes there are no faults and it drives normally. I have a basic fault code reader, but no faults are showing. It might be coincidence that it started just after the alternator was replaced. Have any of you guys got any ideas or experience of this before I book it into my Ford Dealer at great expense? Brian.
  12. Hi all, I replaced the rear pads and discs on my focus about 8 months ago. I used genuine Ford discs and Motorcraft pads. However, although the work perfectly well, the pads throw lots of black dust over the wheels. It's at the stage that the rear wheels have more brake dust than the front wheels! As first thought the rear callipers might be sticking on, and have stripped the rear callipers several times, and when it was in for it's MOT I got the garage to test the rear braked on the rollers, and all is well. So, so you guys have any recommendations for pads that have a low dust? Brian.
  13. Thanks mate. I do have a code reader but it's quite a simple device and although it noted there was a fault, it didn't pick up code that's on the list. I use a garage who are into this kind of thing so I'll get them to check the code before I delete it just in case there is something more in depth. I'm reasonably sure its a case of a rotten intercooler. It looks pretty corroded and being it's right at the front od the radiator stack it probably gets all the dirt / grit and salt thrown at it. Bit of a relief it's the intercooler to be least it's a home fix and nothing else was apparent.
  14. Ditto, the only thing that helped was a swivel head ratchet spanner, 10mm, just back off the 2 bolts, slip it in and your done.