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Timty

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    29
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About Timty

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    Member

Profile Information

  • Ford Model
    Focus 1.8 tdci Ghia 2009
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Cork
  1. This seems a common problem with the Fiesta 1.25 MK4 (1999) but while I've seen many posts describing the problem I've never seen anyone to say they've found the cure. Car starts fine, idles about 1100rpm. For the first half mile the car drives fine. Then at next junction, when you dip the clutch the engine either cuts out or idles so low the alternator light comes on. After about another half mile the engine is beginning to heat up and all is well for the rest of the trip. There are no other problems with the engine - lots of power and very economical. It has only covered 22k miles. So far I've: Put in a new thermostat, when I bought the car the thermostat was stuck open and I suspect it was like that a long time. It now reaches full temperature. New coil and ignition leads Cleaned the idle air control valve - looked spotless anyway. Cleaned the TMAP sensor Took off the throttle position sensor but not much can be done with this from a cleaning point of view With an OBD reader attached I monitored the engine coolant temperature sensor, the throttle position sensor and the incoming air temperature from cold start to engine reaching full temperature and all looks normal. All the little rubber vacuum hoses are intact. So, now am thinking of changing a few sensors. I believe the lambda sensor shouldn't cause a problem at cold idling but can affect hot idling so am ruling that out? I think it's either the throttle position sensor (TPS) or the engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT) - even though the OBD reader indicates they seem to be fine. Has anyone bought these from ebay and would they recommend buying from there? They are a lot cheaper than main dealer parts or motor factor parts. Would they be good enough to at least prove the fault? One other thing - there is not engine management light (MIL) on the dash. It doesn't even come on when the ignition is switched on initially. There is no mention in the warning lights section of the user manual of one. Did these cars not have a MIL light?
  2. I have a 1999 Fiesta Ghia with the 1.25 zetec engine. I have located the coolant sensor fitted under the ignition coil. Can anyone tell me is this also the sensor that is used to drive the engine temperature gauge in the instrument panel? I'm trying to solve what seems to be a common problem where the car stalls at the first junction after a cold start. Lots of suggestions around idle speed control valve, TPS and coolant temp sensor. The gauge reads absolutely normally so if the same sensor drives the gauge and tells the ecu the coolant temperature I'm inclined to rule that out.
  3. Another update: So, I replaced the thermostat again. This time I left the poppet valve as it is and drilled a 2.5 mm hole next to it. Refitted, refilled, bled by letting the engine idle to get some heat in then brought revs to about 4,000 rpm for 4/5 mins with the header tank cap loosened and watched bubbles blowing back into the header tank as air bled out. Refilled coolant as needed and now the cooling system is perfect. Conclusion: This system will air lock when you empty and refill with coolant and can be difficult to bleed out. A very small bleed hole in the thermostat will assist greatly. Otherwise you will be left thinking the pump is faulty or the head gasket is gone! Hope this is of use to someone.
  4. An update on this. I replaced the thermostat but I drilled out the little ball bearing type valve in the body of it an enlarged the hole to 5mm. For good measure I drilled a second 5 mm hole next to it. I did this because it's not the easiest thermostat to be taking out and went 'for broke' with the drilling of holes experiment. I refilled the system and let it rev at about 4,000 rpm for 5 minutes with the coolant expansion bottle cap off. I thought this might help with expelling air. I then left the engine tick over, again with the expansion bottle cap off and suddenly the coolant boiled up and gushed back into the expansion bottle. I had been waiting for the radiator fan to switch in which it didn't do up to this point. I then refilled the expansion bottle, put the cap on tightly, idled the engine, the rad fan eventually switched in and now - all is well! However, it does take a while for the engine to reach anything like normal running temperature but is hotter than when I had the thermostat out. I would say drilling out the ball bearing type valve in the thermostat and leaving the hole it occupied open (about 3mm I'd say) would have been better than 2 x 5mm holes. Anyway, I'm happy. Hope this is of use to someone. Bottom line - 1.25 engine is a b*****d to get air locks out of!
  5. I took a chance and bought a 1999 1.25 Ghia Fiesta with the Zetec engine. The car has a genuine 22k miles - hardly used. I knew the engine coolant temperature didn't reach full temperature prior to my buying it. The engine felt cool and the temp gauge stayed low. Today I fitted a new thermostat - not the nicest job. I was disappointed to see there was no thermostat fitted even though the car had had a new water pump, timing belt and thermostat housing fitted 2k miles before I bought it. Alarm bells went off in my head! Anyway, I fitted the new thermostat, refilled the system, let it idle until the radiator fan kicked in. Left it cool down, topped up the bottle and went for a spin. Within 4 miles at motorway speeds the temp gauge went to max, dropped to midway, went to max and cycled like this. I think the rad fan was kicking in and dropping the temp. The most noticeable thing was the bottom rad hose that connects to the thermostat housing was always cold. Any ideas on what the problem is? I've removed the thermostat again to make the car drivable and the temp gauge just stays at the home position. If i leave it idle for long enough it will hit normal but drop immediately when I 'hit the road' - to be expected I guess without a thermostat. I have absolutely no experience of these engines. What do you think the issue is? Is it an air lock? I called to a ford dealer and asked on of the mechanics about it. He said they were difficult to bleed. His method is rev the engine to 5000 rpm, keep it there until the rad fan kicks in, let the fan stop, keep the revs to 5k until the fan kicks in again and this should clear the air lock! What do you think? Other than that the car drives great and there is heat from the cabin heater even though I have to turn the temp control knob to the max to get what I can out of it! The main point is - the bottom hose stays stone cold as though the thermostat is not opening. It's a new one and I've tested it in hot water on the cooker and am happy it works normally.
  6. Thanks FOCA for the comprehensive answer, I'll give it a go and let you know.
  7. Can anyone explain to me when does the EGR valve 'do its thing'. Does it go from fully closed to fully open or by gradual steps in between and what is the 'event' that causes this to happen. What detects combustion temperatures to be high enough to deploy the valve? I've just done 300 miles of motorway driving with my Focus 1.8tdci today and with 50 miles to the end of my journey i noticed (as did my passengers) 2 distinct 'misses'. These were 25 miles and just for an instant but - noticealbe.It's as if the engine was shut off for a milli-second and back on again. No codes, no alarms. Is this the EGR valve opening? Is this normal, does anyone else experience this on the 1.8 tdci?? I have no complaints regarding performance or economy
  8. FOCA - what happens when the eml light is cleared, will it come back on regularly after?
  9. Hi, I have a 2009 (last of previous model) 1.8 TDCI Focus. I bought it new and it has 40,000 miles covered. Driving, usually at a constant speed on the motorway, it can give an instantaneous and quite violent misfire that lasts for a split second. It's as if the engine switched off for 1 millisecond and back on again. Having happened, it might not happen again for the next 60 miles or so. On short journeys about town I never notice it, only always on a motorway journey but not always. No other symptoms, no lights or codes and no loss of performance. I have changed the fuel filter a number of times (3 times over the last 12,000 miles) hoping to cure the issue but no good. This is an expensive practice as Fords charge 48 euro for a filter element, i fit it myself. Have any of you experienced this issue, it's hardly normal behaviour.. is it ? Thanks
  10. Stoney871, Thank you for this. I've just discovered I had it assembled incorrectly i.e. element in first, then seal. I can see now how air that would be pulled in past the threads of the filter housing screw cap could be pulled into the filter housing rather than being blocked by the seal! I've had issues with my car misfiring and eventually losing all power (tick over revs only, no throttle response, turn off and on again and away we go with no problems). Only happens after 70 miles or so of motorway driving only, not happening on secondary road driving. I guess there is a fair vacuum built up at that speed after an hour or so that could pull in the air, even more so as the filter begins to get dirty. I will monitor same and post back.
  11. Hi, I have a 2009 1.8 TDCI Focus. When changing the fuel filter what way should the rubber seal go. Should it be UNDER the filter i.e between the filter housing and the underside of the lip at the top of the filter element or OVER the filter i.e between the screw on housing cap and the top lip of the filter element?
  12. Thanks FOCA. My code reader is an Autel Maxiscan MS509. It was highly recommended in 'Car Mechanics' magazine in 2011, that's why I bought it. I wonder did the code reader go faulty while it was connected and cause my 'Engine Malfunction' warning today or did the car generate the warning and in some way or other (voltage spike?) damage the code reader. Major portions of the code reader lcd are missing. That said when the fault occured I was able to discern this from the lcd: U1040 'Lost communication with the Body Control Module' U0001 'High Speed Can Communication Bus' and U2005 'DTC Definition not found' . I still don't know what that last one is for. I've ordered a Gendan GCR25 off ebay an hour ago, feel 'naked' without a code reader! You are absolutely correct in what you say about the blanking plate with the hole. I do have a solid one and will try that. However, in fairness, while I got an MIL light today I did not lose power. This is an improvement! Have I got an EGR issue but the restricted plate did not allow the cylinders to 'flood' with inert gas? Who knows! Is there anything worse than an intermittent fault that does not store a code. Is there anything worse than actualy calling to 4 Ford main dealers in the area and not one of them in a position to put the car on a scan unless you book it in, take a morning off, arrange alternative transport etc etc. I've had a mercedes e270 cdi for 9 months, 3 of which it spent its time in the garage having torque converters replaced! My mate has a '07 Audi A4 2.0tdi that ate its cam followers, cost 1300 euro to repair and is still not right. My work colleague, with a low mileage 2009 1.8 tdci Mondeo just failed the MOT with a smoke figure of 5.5 (limit 1.5). My neighbour's Peugeot HDi has just had a new clutch/dmf fitted. BUT ... my daughter's 1999, 1Litre Petrol Polo with 140,000 miles never gives trouble!! Conclusion - buy a petrol car. Ok, rant over, the wine is beginning to work now. I think I will suffer it and take the car to the dealer on Wednesday and see what they might find. I'll let you know what happens. Tomorrow I will attempt to go to Dublin again but this time I am much more hopeful of getting there ... because I'm taking the train!! Tim
  13. Oh! No! The latest update. I took the car on a motorway drive today to Dublin. At exactly the same point on the road as on 2 previous events (after 60 miles of steady 65mph) the Engine Malfunction light came on. However, this time, no loss of power. About 20 miles before this I saw the rev counter and speedo drop to zero and immediately go back to where they should be. I was driving with my OBD code reader connected, hoping to catch the error if it happened. Guess what .. when I tried to read it the screen had more or less gone blank, barely readable but I could see it displayed a loss of connection to the ECU!! Between the previous engine malfunction (mis-fire, light on, no power, engine at idle, no response to throttle, turn off turn on all ok again) and this event (no mis-fire, malfunction light on, no loss of power) I have fitted a blanking plate on the EGR (the one with the 10mm hole). I wonder have I proved my theory that the EGR is sticking open? I did the scan using the Reset button on the column and it came up with D900. That said I tried 4 Ford dealers today to have a scan done and they are all too busy! I have the car booked in for next wednesday. The service manager there suspects an over pressurisation by teh high pressure diesel pump or maybe an injector fault. He says there should really be an OBD code but I've never found one. He will do deeper diagnostics.
  14. The latest update. I took the car on a motorway drive today to Dublin. At exactly the same point on the road as on 2 previous events teh Engine Malfunction light came on. However, this time, no loss of power. About 20 miles before this I saw the rev counter and speedo drop to zero and immediately go back to where they should be. I was driving with my OBD code reader connected, hoping to catch the error if it happened. Guess what .. when I tried to read it the screen had more or less gone blank, barely readable but I could see it displayed a loss of connection to the ECU!! Between the previous engine malfunction (mis-fire, light on, no power, engine at idle, no response to throttle, turn off turn on all ok again) and this event (no mis-fire, malfunction light on, no loss of power) I have fitted a blanking plate on the EGR (the one with the 10mm hole). I wonder have I proved my theory that the EGR is sticking open? I did the scan using the Reset button on the column and it came up with D900. That said I tried 4 Ford dealers today to have a scan done and they are all too busy! I have the car booked in for next wednesday. The service manager there suspects an over pressurisation by teh high pressure diesel pump or maybe an injector fault. He says there should really be an OBD code but I've never found one. He will do deeper diagnostics.
  15. Well, since I started this post my car flew through its first N.C.T. test (M.O.T. in Britain) with flying colours. The smoke test limit is 1.5 somethings per something or other and mine read 0.6. Today a work colleague's 2009 Mondel 1.8 TDCI failed at 5.5!! That said, I've got to go from Cork to Dublin tomorrow, a 160 mile motorway blast and I'm not confident the car will make it without dying (Misfire, Engine malfunction light on, engine idle rpm only, no throttle response, turn off, turn on and away we go again, no codes stored). I have also fitted the 'sort of blanking' plate i.e. the one with the 10mm hole. Is there anything worse than a car that you have no confidence in getting you from A to B and back again. Anyway, in reply to Newbie I have little interest in re-mapping it, I'd be delighted if it would just stay running on what Mr. Ford gave it first day! Happy Valentine's Day to all .. and ok ... I wish the same to my '!Removed!' of a TDCI :)