Davebrundle

Budding Enthusiast
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About Davebrundle

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Profile Information

  • Ford Model
    Transit 2001 100ps
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Cambridgeshire
  1. I bet the old right hand caliper must have come from an estate . The handbrake did work good with this set up
  2. It's my old ones that both wind in anticlockwise . New calipers got from a company called j&r . They look like the 2004 and newer design . The old ones did work ok . Going to fit them again to see if handbrake will adjust . Back to old calipers now . The righ hand winds in anticlockwise as its supposed to so I set the slot facing away from the mark . The left side is wrong because it winds in anticlockwise as well so I presume I set the slot facing away on this one as well ?
  3. Up after an afternoon in the garage . Took calipers off , took off cables , wound in pistons again . Slid back heat shield . Put calipers on and pumped loads to set pads and piston . Connected handbrake and adjusted till the caliper arms had moved a mm or so . Pumped brakes then did the handbrake about 30 times . Still no adjustment happened. Went back to manual and slso looked at old calipers . Bingo think I found out what's wrong . My old pistons had a slotted side and a notched side . New calipers have got a notch both sides . I spoke to caliper company and they said they are the correct ones . So I have decided to put on old calipers and see what happens . BUT when I looked at old calipers I found something strange . They both wind in anticlockwise . Manual says left hand should be clockwise . So I double checked and yep both wind in anticlockwise . I thaught maybe they were both right handers but they arnt . Defo built for left and right. I can tell by the way the handbrake arm goes . I decided not to put them on yet . I think the left hand caliper must be off an estate so hence I got both wind in anticlockwise . If that's the case when I refit them do I line up both slots in position as the right hand . The slot down to the mark in stead of doing them opposite . Can anybody follow what I'm saying . Will they work both winding out the same way ?
  4. I'm going out now to take off exhaust and see if there is any cable adjustment I will also take off both calipers , wind them back and try again . Will say how it went when I got all back again
  5. I found the garage receipt for the handbrake cables replaced . I hope they were genuine as parts and labour was £245 to supply , fit , and adjust . I got garage to do it as I was real busy at work at that time .
  6. To be honest I don't know if they are genuine . Strange thing is before I changed everything the handbrake was good . 4 clicks and it was holding real well
  7. Forgot to say . I also took apart brake sliders . Cleaned up and re greased and checked they moved freely . Another question . If the handbrake is adjusted while foot is on the brake , then do you have to have foot on brake every time handbrake is used . It's adjusted for when brake is on so when foot brake is off caliper is thurther back thus making the adjusted handbrake not affective . ???
  8. I've looked on the net and read quite a but about handbrake adjustments . Last week I put on new rear bearings brand new calipers discs and pads . . I fitted brakes and left off handbrake cables . Bled brakes as normal then pumped brakes hard about 10 times . Refitted hand brake cables and checked all cables were free and working correctly . Pumped brakes again then pulled up handbrake as far as if would go about 20 times . Then about another 100 times and the handbrake will not tighten up . Cables were replaced about a year ago so they are not stretched . There is loads of movement at the end if the cable . The caliper arm moves as far as it can travel but still not got a decent handbrake . I took off caliper s and wound them out a bit . . Pumped brakes again then applied hand brake about 1000 times and still no !Removed! handbrake ??? Only thing I'm wondering is . I smeared the caliper face with copper grease and back of pads to stop squeal . Could this be the cause . If not . Why the heck won't it adjust up . Please help . 2004 mondeo tdci . Thanks
  9. I spoke to my local mot man and he said at present and in the near future the battery light off/on/ flashing is not a fail . He said airbag tc and brake warning is a fail . He is not aware of any changes to do with battery light . Anyway I checked the alternator again today and its charging constant 14.4 v . Battery light still on . I pulled the plug off and checked battery and there was no charge at all . So I will leave it plugged in and try to ignore the light for a while untill I either spend thousands fixing the smart charge or scrap the van
  10. Well I've got the answer . I'm going yo unplug and have battery 14 v during the winter and I will pug it in and take out battery bulb in the summer . Don't think my £1000 transit will get a new £1000 ecu . Happy days.
  11. Am I right in thinking the smart charge is controlled by the main ecu so if the smart charge is fried then it's a no repair and buy a new ecu ?
  12. Sorry forgot to say its a transit 2001 100 ps on the above thread
  13. Hi sorry to add to an old post but I now have this problem and need advice . I will start at the start . Ok the bearing in alternator been going bad for about a year . I changed it last week because the bearing noise was driving me mad . It was still working ok . Just the bearings . Also the battery was old and getting low . 4 days ago battery wouldn't start the van so I went to parto and got new battery . All was good untill today . I went out and all was good . Went to go out again 20 mins later and the battery light was on . Bright red no flickering . Locked on . Tried revving engine and light still on . So I checked alternator 3 wire plug . Cleaned it and put back . Started van and still on . So put multimeter on battery . 12.6v started van and then got 13.6v . I watched multimeter and put lights on full and blower on full . It stayed 13.6v revved van and still 13.6v . I have done 1000 miles on new alternator and about 300 on new battery . The battery partco sold me is a normal lead acid battery . I've just read that they not recommended . How and what do I check . Could the battery have fried the smart charge ? Or possible broken wire .? I'm no good with a multimeter and electrics so could someone explain what tests and how please . I just havnt got the money spare to take to garage . And if its still charging can I just ignore the light . Would more damage be caused by my battery if I carried on using it ? . If the battery fried the smart charge would it mean a new ecu ? Help please
  14. Welcome to the Ford forums Davebrundle :)