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Budding Enthusiast
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About nordle

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  • Ford Model
    Fiesta 1.25 Zetec Mk5
  1. ehhh, I wouldn't know, as I named my car Freddie, therefore am not one either.
  2. To quote someone else, start cheap and get expensive. ie plugs --> leads --> coil I had massive corrosion on one lead, where it joined the coil, causing that terminal to corrode too. Replaced the pugs, lead, and pack. Perfec.
  3. Naming your car, that's ridiculous! For those of you who are men, call yourselves real men! You absolutely wouldn't catch me naming my fiesta. No sir. Nothing like, ehh, Freddie, after 2005 Ashes party and the car rides like its been on a 23hr bender! :) Although these days instread of Freddie, I tend to stick to "Worthless piece of sh**"
  4. Thanks Rookwise, I've not done the radio as have been giving car a few days to get the battery powered up a bit, given its 2 week stay in parking bay. In the Haynes manual it rambled on about this weird pagan ritual that might help with the engine management. Having disconnected the battery etc, started engine and ran for 5mins until warm, then pegged the throttle at about 1300rpm for 2 mins, then went for drive. Well **** me, but the next day I started it and the light had gone! That was about the 4th start since battery out. Done another 6 since then, and still all appears well. Although quite whether the mad little engine dance had anything to do with it, no idea. So, on a roll now, might even try the radio tomorrow.......oh, Friday 13th, damnit. Better get the bus! :)
  5. Doh! Too late. I left the battery out for 35mins. Started car, went for spin, did 10 miles, seemed fine. However the damn light is still on. I can leave it 20 starts and see, then maybe call AA (been member for 6 years, never called them out) and see if they can tell me what it means. I've got a radio code, I punched it in and....then what? There must be some sort of "OK" button, but I don't know which it is, and I don't want to randomly hit buttons as I heard that if you mess it up 10 times then the whole thing locks out. Is there a button or.? Thanks again.
  6. Cheers SierraYankee99, much appreciated! Am about to disconnect battery now, will soon find out whether the Radio code I was given when buying the car actually works :) I just worked out that I'm only now doing 4,000 miles a year. If the car passes MOT in Dec '09 then I'll get the belt and tensioner done in early '10 100k had me thinking WOW. I mean, the old Rovers, I seemed to do those every 24mths...... along with rear bushes every 8 weeks! The roads have been really bad over last 5 years, massive holes everywhere, but this snow + water + salt have really put giant crayters everywhere! Anyway, thanks again.
  7. Hello, I'm new to the Ford fam, having blown up a few dodgy Rovers over last few years Y Reg 2001 Mk5 Fiesta 1.25 Zetec Petrol 57,000 miles Engine warning light came on last week, running rough, shaking, miss-firing. Checked plugs, (wrong type, NGK PTR5A-10, but ok). Found one HT lead badly corded at end that joins coil pack, which itself was corded and full of crap in same terminal. Replaced plugs with NGK TR5A-10. Replaced single knackered HT lead. Replaced Coil Pack. Firing on all 4 again :) Q1. The Haynes manuel said the spark gap needed to be 1.3mm, but I read on Interweb that Ford originally set it to 1.3mm and found HT leads dying early, so changed it to 1.0mm. So is it 1.3mm or 1.0? I went with 1.2mm, hope this is ok / reasonable compromise. Q2. The engine management light is still on, but the car is running ok now. Best option to take to dealer to have laptop trickery? Q3. The timing belt, subject of billions of internet posts :) I keep reading that its 10yrs or 100k miles, however the Ford Warrenty and Service Manual says: "Camshaft drive belt, tensioner and idler Renew Zetec, Zetec-E (without auto-tensioner) every 5 years or 80,000 miles" next page "Camshaft drive belt Renew Zetec E (with auo-tensioner), Zetec SE Endura-DI every 10 years or 100,000 miles" The Haynes manual says "Every 40,000 miles for Zetec SE" 3a. Apologies for being thick, but I'm not sure which of the above applies. 3b. There is a chance that it's already been replaced. Looking back through the history I found an Invoice for: 09-SEP-04 25,108 miles Belt £20.56 Gasket £6.45 Seal £4.25 Tensioner £27.19 Water Pump £66.92 Plug 49p Bolt £1.55 £127.41 Labour £375 Unfortunately, it doesn't say what the belt was, but seeing the water pump and tensioner, having read many posts, I believe these tend to get done at the same time as the cam belt. However, I realise that these are pretty big assumptions, it could be the Alternator Belt. And given the 25k miles, it could all be garbage and the garage just ripped the previous owner. I guess there might be a sticker possibly, but I didn't see one. 3c. In short, I guess I should get the cam belt done in 2010 to be on safe side (do a lot of short, sub 5 mile, often stop start journeys). I had the alternator belt done in Jan '07 and possibly the tensioner was done in 2004, but should these all be done again at the same time? Apologies for the long first post, many thanks for reading it! :) My first Ford, and although I found doing basics in cramped engine bay tricky, the usability of the cockpit is great. Going from a 20yr old car to this, you can really see that a lot of thought / design has gone into making it a nice place to be. I also REALLY like having a small car, it corners like its on rails compared to previous boats. Although 1.25 is, well, 1.25. Many thanks for any pointers / help / tips etc (I'll keep future posts shorter, promise).