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Budding Enthusiast
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About bladeage

  • Rank
    Settling In Well
  • Birthday 04/23/1969

Contact Methods

  • MSN
  • First Name PAUL

Profile Information

  • Gender* Male
  • Ford Model mondeo 2007 2.0 tdci old shape
  • Ford Year 2007
  • UK/Ireland Location Yorkshire
  • Annual Mileage 0 to 5000
  • Interests General Automotive
    Motorsport & Racing
    Road Trips
    Sports & Leisure

Previous Fields

  • Location United Kingdom
  1. Happy Birthday bladeage!

  2. I was aiming more at the viscosity of the oil because there obviously seems to be a drag in cold weather on the top end,not getting any symptoms at all now the temperatures have risen,?
  3. Gearbox Abit Stiff In When Cold

    a couple of weeks ago when it was freezing cold, my car was hard to engage gear from first start/standstill in a morning, it has now vanished since the temperatures are above the minus mark. I think my own problem may have been the cables etc etc contracting.....oil thick etc etc when it was that cold? everything good now it has warmed up!
  4. Hi, The clatter when it was cold outside last week and before then actually retarded the power, i.e. it did not accelerate as quick as when warm, I take it from the above two posts that the lifters are hydraulic, if so then the quality of oil would make a big difference in the cold so next question I put Mobil 1 in or similar for cold weather running? cheers
  5. Temperatures are up today and I found when I started the car from cold this morning that all the clattering had disappeared so I am thinking my glow plugs need changing, which I am going to do then re fit the tuning box and try again!
  6. My Mondi Going Through Changes.

    Yep the red and black thing is a bit eighties for me,chrome looks good as standard. Head unit etc was a nice upgrade!
  7. EGR Clean

    Nice one! It needs to be recognised more on the forums that just mending the root cause of a light on the dashboard and clearing the code does not necessarily mean that there aren't knock on problems that need sorting, that result from the root cause and this prime example of the EGR valve is one of them. Just like the example of a Turbo with blown seals that you have put off changing for 12 months, during that time the Turbo has emptied most of the hot oil you will have lost into the intercooler,the hot oil that has not been trapped in the intercooler will then travel through the throttle body and into the cold inlet manifold which by coincidence is full of soot from your partially blocked EGR valve.....oil and soot stick together resulting in the gooey mess you have to clean out of your throttle body, you clean the throttle body but don't realise that the inlet manifold straight after the throttle body is even worse than what you have just cleaned and the gas flowed surfaces are actually now 2 mm thick in carbon because the previous 2 owners only ever cleaned the egr valve because it got rid of the light on the you see the vicious circle??????
  8. .....not wanting to harp on! Do you think the glow plugs could be causing the exaggerated clattery starting in the mornings as it still does it to a less degree without the box. No smoke etc .
  9. EGR Clean

    Hi, The saab diesel engine is the same fitted to the vauxhall vectra etc etc (same car basically), which were developed by Fiat, so in actual fact the saab,vauxhall plant is a Fiat ....anyways.....I have just had my missis's Signum 150 in absolute bits due to the same poor running your brother had and I am 100% that egr cleaner as added to the fuel would absolutely not shift the amount of soot in an egr that causes problems all through the immediate induction system, the egr cleaner probably freed off the turbo and unblocked the egr pipe where it terminates at the turbo, they tend to block at the junction with the turbo in the first inch of pipe, once this is cleared the car usually runs ok again, the egr/dpf/injector/induction cleaner (basically the same stuff) is very good at shifting carbon where it burns hot,i.e.combustion chamber,turbo,catalytic convertor etc but when the gasses cool down as they reach parts such as the egr there is negligible effect and the only way of really removing soot and carbon from the egr,inlet manifold etc is to get yer fingers me I am an expert on cdti carbon encrusted engines, I spent 3 weeks removing the said carbon/soot and after removing it all and power not being back to 100% I added a wynn's dpf treatment to over half the tank of diesel (lol I removed the DPF 15000 miles ago!!) and low and behold all was back to good in 30 miles.......I guess the kerosene additive freed the turbo and the egr pipe. Got to remember most of all these threads are down to the EGR valves not necessarily giving up the ghost all in one go but they slowly over time block everything else up until they themselves stop working in the process, so when the egr is blocked and no longer working then simply cleaning the egr will only extinguish the dashboard light and stop the fault codes, after cleaning the egr then you need to clean the throttle body and then the inlet manifold (thats fun!), I think it is called, "cause and effect"! When all is cleaned then put some cleaner fluid thru the tank to get where you couldnt with the varying size toothbrushes etc. Lol...dont yer just love diesels!
  10. Thanks for all the posts on this folks,I have decided to remove it for a while and may refit and try it in the summer,its obvious there is a problem with cold starting/running and to be honest I really should change the glow plugs as it has always been a bit clattery on start up with or without the box, maybe that is being exaggerated by the box? who knows? Now removed the car has dropped back down to 45mpg tops but until I learn more then it will stay off due to the poor cold start problem. 45mpg...from a 2 litre....bargain! :) Thanks again all!
  11. EGR Clean

    Hi Baitman, Yeah the egr/dpf inlet/induction cleaner stuff you add to the tank is basically airline jet engine fuel (kerosene/parafin), I am an aerospace radiologist concerned with the diagnostics on stripped down jet engines and their rotating parts and can tell you there is never any soot or deposits to be found anywhere on the combustion side of things and very little on the exhaust side either. Kerosene not only burns at a much higher temperature but acts as a catalyst on carbon/soot;I am not an expert but basically kerosene is able to penetrate carbon/soot deposits via a chemical (maybe other) reaction and release it from where it is stuck /adhered to, it really is good in diesel engines as diesel engines run very cool and get sooted up quickly if not run at high temperatures often. Good stuff! but not sure it should be run at low dilution levels in an aluminium engine,kerosene has a very high sulphur content which absolutely reacts with and destroys aluminium, jet aircraft engines and there moving parts are mostly (90%) made from Titanium which does not readily react with sulphur at high temperatures....get my drift?! The manufacturers of the said tank additive all state it should not be added more than every 3,000 miles approx. Another good point to make which is off topic! Red Diesel ! How many out there think red diesel is just normal diesel with red dye added to catch tax cheats out??????? Red diesel for the less informed has at least (approx) 125% more phosphorous/sulfur content than its more refined cousin...white diesel. Sulfur/phosphors absolutely eat aluminium away, cylinder head,valve seats,turbo's etc etc,just ask the multitude of merc sprinter owners that continued using it in there new alloy headed vans back in the 1990' mates head gasket went 3 times in 12 months, not due to the bad workmanship of fitting the gaskets but from the porosity it caused where the sulphur had been trapped. cheers.
  12. Hi, There is no disputing the power increase and also the economy seems to be much,much better but I started the car this afternoon and on my return journey from work it sounded loud again,clattery and out of time, I drove on for a couple of miles and again like the morning starts everything smoothed out and we were back to full power and running smoothly. I decided to remove the box mid journey and see if and what difference there was and found that it was much smoother and quieter without it, lots less power in the upper gears but it fealt more responsive in 1st and 2nd gear,it could be that like FOCA said it needs more air via an up rated filter so as an experiment I am going to remove the filter altogether for one journey to work and see if anything improves, taking on board this is not such a good idea long term it will give me an idea if that is the way to go! lol.....I really am only doing an experiment with this tuning box to see if there can be a happy medium achieved for the £59 they cost opposed to a £300+ ecu reprogram (as they are also not guarenteed!!), the deal so far is that it works well in the higher gears and economy is the stated 20% better ish they advertise and but for this glitch when starting from cold then I would say everyone should buy one, but there is definitely an issue with cold starting so cannot wholly recommend one at this point! I must say though, if it is overfuelling then I am not seeing this in the form of black smoke out of the smoke at all!??? cheers :)
  13. agree!..... smaller car vs's larger car maybe 5 mpg difference round town, service costs, repair costs etc etc.... I previously had a Merc E320 cdi estate that whilst I was using on long runs was great on diesel,doing 45 mpg most of the time but when I changed job and started commuting it did 32 mpg....which is pretty good for a big un! Still not good enough tho and I miss the merc for its space but I have really warmed to my 2007 mk3 mondi, excellent mpg and all works well.......great commuter!
  14. Has my mk3 got auto headlights and wipers??? if so how????
  15. Hi :( , Just signed into this thread I started and it seems tempers are fraid somewhat? I didn't really intend for anyone to fall out over the subject and I can assure all parties that I and many others have been listening intently to "all" the advice given,all advice etc was/is very welcome on the subject.....absolutely!! :) I guess we are all here to gain information on the cars we drive on a daily basis...and mostly...there are certain posters here that offer excellent advice and opinion which is based mostly on either/or, experience and practical theory, without these people then the lesser experienced people on here such as myself will not benefit except for stabs in the dark sometimes based on mis-information. (I speak of FOCA and STOOGE 75 being excellent contributers!) I for one have learned loads about fuelling and how these piggyback units work now! Anyhow........... I left the car over night and started it up around 2pm, the diesel rattle was not there at all so as a guess I think that the outside temperature has some bearing on the said rattle (what is the rattle stooge? :) ), soooo....guessing again...when it is very cold the ecu compensates with more fuel to get things going and with the piggyback unit telling the ecu it is already cold and to add more fuel/pressure then the ecu either gets confused and I am just over fuelling the engine which is now running out of time for the amount of fuel being added. I can see if this is the case that it would be much better to have a full remap! We went for a meal 40 ish miles round trip on the motorway and the car was averaging 60- 62 mpg at 72 mph, funnily enough when you let it come down to 68 mph then the mpg dropped to 58-59, my missis's Signum Elite does the same thing also and I now think they have a sweet spot for best mpg!??? My commute is still returning between 49-53 mpg on A road and city stop starting (24 mile return journey), I have not yet done a scientific calculation with brimmed tank to empty but I do think the gain is looking to be correct on the 40 quids worth of fuel I put in last week, and I really do know that My right foot is well backed off to the point that I am feathering the accelerator pedal at minimum on flat roads to keep it at speed. I think you may have guessed I am not a thrasher and I have to be honest that if I were, then I think the extra noise the car makes if you put your foot down in a morning when stone cold (-0) would equate to damage if repeated on a regular basis as it is obvious there is a fuel/timing issue probably resulting in the cylinders being hydraulicked on a very cold start up,knowing this I have backed right off at first until the engine is warm (as everything sounds normal that way!) and wait for a few miles until the engine is warm when everything is good and working great. Obviously this is not an ideal situation and not one I want to stay with but I feel that with the warmer weather coming and the fact my driving is limited to slowish commuting anyway then I will continue to use the piggyback and keep reporting back. Just something to take note of though....... On cold start up before I fitted this box this sound was already there and the engine acted exactly the same way....but to a lesser,quieter degree! so deduce it is extra fuel being added by the piggy back.? also....I have not once seen any smoke from the car before or after fitting and when warm (2 miles down the road) everything is very good, if it werent for the cold start bit then the £59 tuning box I brought would be and absolute bargain, as it stands right now, then I am reserving long term judgement! How do I reset my ECU ???? cheers