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Chris_B

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    12
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About Chris_B

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    Member

Profile Information

  • Ford Model Fiesta Mk4 1998 1.25L Zetec
  • UK/Ireland Location Essex
  1. 1998 Focus Mk1 Rear Wheel Bearing

    Wheel bearing done. I had to pop out and buy a 3 legged puller for £12. The brake shoes were backed off as the entire drum was wobbling so the puller did a great job. I recommend getting one if the drum doesn't slide off. The nut was a 30mm not 29mm by the way. Had to take the spindle shaft assembly off (4 nuts from the rear) because the back half of the inner race was siezed to the shaft. So I put that in the bench vice, cut a score mark diagonally across the race and crack it with a chisel and hammmer. Pressed the new bearing in, I had to re-press the new one out and put it in the right way as I installed it in the same orientation as the old nackered one, turns out according to the little note inside the new bearing kit that the gold bearing seal side was facing outboard on the car where the note said to install the new bearing with the gold ring facing inboard. So this is the reason why the old one failed. Plus the fact that I went to torque the newly supplied nut up with the bearing the wrong way round and the bolts thread just chewed to pieces, the spindle shaft threads were okay as that was hardened steel. So after reinstalling the new bearing in the correct way I reused the origional nut, (as the Haynes holy bible says it can be reused upto 4 times), torquing it in increments of 50Nm all the way upto 235Nm whilst spinning the drum as I tightened. Hope this info is of use to anyone. And thanks for the help lol...
  2. 1998 Focus Mk1 Rear Wheel Bearing

    Hi, A little research and I think its 29mm spindle nut (right hand thread?) And 235Nm torque stepped up in increments whilst spinning drum in opposite direction when torquing up
  3. Hi, I'm doing a rear wheel bearing tomorrow for a friend and need some info... It's a drum setup and need to know what the shaft nut size is and what the torque spec is for the shaft nut. As I understand, but the bearing will need pressing out and new one pressed in, is it feasible to drive the old one out and new one in with suitable size socket? Many thanks.
  4. As Title says, I'm planning on a timing belt & tensioner renewal on a 1998 1.25L Petrol Zetec engine, I have a Haynes manual for reference but unsure weather this is left handed.
  5. Just an update for those of Interest, Went back and undone all major bolts, re-fitted road wheels, lowered then tightened the bolts up to the required torque spec (80Nm), I also doused the Nyloc nuts in Loctite for added thread lock. Took the car for a test drive and all is well. But I haven't dismissed the re-used bolts, I will go back and fit new ones. This stage is just to get the car through the MOT. Update: Car passed MOT with success, I will go back and replace the bolts on the front pivot pushes Chris
  6. Hi guys, Just changed the front wishbones on a relatives Mk4 Fiesta, took 2.5Hrs from wheels off to wheels back on. The pattern parts used were First Line at £28 each, New Shank bolt and Nyloc nuts were installed on the rear 'Rose' type bush, But only used new Nyloc nut on the front O/S Pivot bush bolts but I cleaned up the front bolts on the wire wheel. New Pinch bolts and Nyloc nuts were used on the hub carrier ball joints. Getting the old wishbones out was easy, took 30mins to do both sides as i had an air impact wrench. Upon fitting the O/S wishbone gave me a little trouble so i moved to the N/S, The N/S slotted in perfectly, I inserted the rear Rose bush bolt first and tightened gingerly, then i swung round the pivot bush round to its mounting and inserted just the long bolt (Leaving the ball joint protector cup on) and this slotted in 1st time, Then inserted the ball joint pin. I tightened the rear bush bolts first, then with the trolley jack, i applied upward force to the underside of the wishbones ball joint to push it into the hub further, then i inserted the pinch bolts and tightened this. At this point, the rear wishbone bolts are done up (Not fully tight, just snug) and the pinch bolts tightened With the front Pivot bush bolts loose I lowered the car (with road wheels fitted and lowered the wheels onto a single brick per side) and then I tightened the front Pivot bolts. I did this with the car's weight on so that i didn't stress and put the pivot bush into a bind causing premature failure. If i tightened the front pivot bolts without any load on the wishbone then when the car's weight is loaded onto the front wheels again then the pivot bush would twist and fail. I'm a little concerned with some minor things however, The two front Pivot bolts I re-used, these are stretch bolts as I understand as they have a shank on them, but i used a new Nyloc nut on one side, but re-used and wire wheeled the nut and applied Loctite on the other side. But reffering to the Haynes manual, it just instructs to replace the Nyloc nuts. I Tightened all bolts up with an impact wrench, i didn't set my impact wrench to kill, but i checked the tightness with atorque wrench after and it clicks immediately at 80Nm which suggest to me that they are in the region of 90Nm. I do the road wheel bolts up with the impact wrench and i have an idea of what torque it produces and in this case it seems a little bit over. Any suggestions to the work I carried out is much appreciated. Thank you for reading, Chris
  7. Is the crankshaft pulley bolt a left handed thread on the Zetec engine? Many thanks, Chris
  8. 1998 Fiesta Mk4 Front Wishbone Replacement

    Just an update for those of Interest, Went back and undone all major bolts, re-fitted road wheels, lowered then tightened the bolts up to the required torque spec (80Nm), I also doused the Nyloc nuts in Loctite for added thread lock. Took the car for a test drive and all is well. But I haven't dismissed the re-used bolts, I will go back and fit new ones. This stage is just to get the car through the MOT. Chris
  9. 1998 Fiesta Mk4 Front Wishbone Replacement

    Thank you DieselPig, I will go back and re-do my work, best to be safe.
  10. Hi guys, Just changed the front wishbones on a relatives Mk4 Fiesta, took 2.5Hrs from wheels off to wheels back on. The pattern parts used were First Line at £28 each, New Shank bolt and Nyloc nuts were installed on the rear 'Rose' type bush, But only used new Nyloc nut on the front O/S Pivot bush bolts but I cleaned up the front bolts on the wire wheel. New Pinch bolts and Nyloc nuts were used on the hub carrier ball joints. Getting the old wishbones out was easy, took 30mins to do both sides as i had an air impact wrench. Upon fitting the O/S wishbone gave me a little trouble so i moved to the N/S, The N/S slotted in perfectly, I inserted the rear Rose bush bolt first and tightened gingerly, then i swung round the pivot bush round to its mounting and inserted just the long bolt (Leaving the ball joint protector cup on) and this slotted in 1st time, Then inserted the ball joint pin. I tightened the rear bush bolts first, then with the trolley jack, i applied upward force to the underside of the wishbones ball joint to push it into the hub further, then i inserted the pinch bolts and tightened this. At this point, the rear wishbone bolts are done up (Not fully tight, just snug) and the pinch bolts tightened With the front Pivot bush bolts loose I lowered the car (with road wheels fitted and lowered the wheels onto a single brick per side) and then I tightened the front Pivot bolts. I did this with the car's weight on so that i didn't stress and put the pivot bush into a bind causing premature failure. If i tightened the front pivot bolts without any load on the wishbone then when the car's weight is loaded onto the front wheels again then the pivot bush would twist and fail. I'm a little concerned with some minor things however, The two front Pivot bolts I re-used, these are stretch bolts as I understand as they have a shank on them, but i used a new Nyloc nut on one side, but re-used and wire wheeled the nut and applied Loctite on the other side. But reffering to the Haynes manual, it just instructs to replace the Nyloc nuts. I Tightened all bolts up with an impact wrench, i didn't set my impact wrench to kill, but i checked the tightness with a torque wrench after and it clicks immediately at 80Nm which suggest to me that they are in the region of 90Nm. I do the road wheel bolts up with the impact wrench and i have an idea of what torque it produces and in this case it seems a little bit over. Any suggestions to the work I carried out is much appreciated. Thank you for reading, Chris
  11. Hi, think I'm going to buy a flywheel ring gear locking tool from Laser and remove the starter motor to fit this, just received the timing tools and Haynes manual for a bit of guidance. I don't think i will try putting the car in gear and locking the brakes, i think that would damage the clutch and drive train to be honest. All i need now is the camshaft pulley counter torque brace and a crankshaft pulley. Once i get the TDC lined up with the locating pin then i can lock the flywheel and apply torque when i refit the belt, and as for the top end, i think i will fabricate a 'Y' joint flat bar with M10 or M12 bolts and hold the camshaft pulleys in place against the engine bay top support with a piece of wood underneath the holding bar. Will post once i complete the work with pictures. Thanks for reading.
  12. Hi all, new to the forum, Planning on changing the timing belt on 1998 1.25L Petrol Zetec engine. Gathering tools and info at the moment and the info i have at the moment is as follows: Bought Draper 61262 Camshaft/ Crankshaft locking tools, (Flat bar & TDC Crankshaft pin) currently looking for flywheel locking tool for this engine, currently looking for camshaft sprocket counter torque holding tool considering on buying a Haynes manual for torque specs etc As far as i know, the crankshaft sprocket is floating as well as the camshaft pulleys, So therefore i will need a torque wrench and an angular torque gauge for the crankshaft bolt, as well as for the camshaft pulleys. I think i will need a flywheel locking tool for when i torque up the crankshaft bolt (without TDC locating pin inserted). I think i will also need a camshaft sprocket counter torque holding tool, (am i thinking its okay to leave the camshaft locking bar in place whilst using the camshaft holding tool?) I have air tools to remove the crankshaft bolt as I've heard that it can be tough to get off. And once i have fitted new belt, tightened all respective pulley bolts, align the tensioner to correct tension, then i rotate engine 2 revolutions then re-insert the timing tools to check. Any comments or tips much appreciated.
  13. Welcome to the Ford forums Chris_B :)